Anchoring in rocks

John Augustine

John Augustine

Well-known member
In the last couple years I've been hunting Rip-Rap and rock piles or walls. I am using Navy anchors and had to cut off three last season. I can get them out fine if I can see them but when it's snotty and the wind is blowing hard it's difficult to free them.
Just curious what others are using, Thanks John
 
How about those anchors that fold up? I think a lot of boaters use those on wrecks... I've never used them before though
 
I use a Danforth with 6-8' of chain ahead of it. I anchor a lot in granite structure. Mind you I'm not throwing it into a jetty, I'm in about 25-35' of water. Holds great and when it comes time to go I motor above it to get a straight up pull and it usually pops free in the first couple tries. Once in a while you have to work it but the chain will usually fold it back into self to come free. Good luck, just what I use.


Troy
 
Forward and aft anchors out off the structure on longer lines and then a line to the jetty above waterline amidships to pull in tight to the structure?
 
If you are in rocks and current, these are great, if expensive. I'm guessing someone with welding skills could make one for less than they retail for here: https://www.hydeoutdoors.com/product/spike-drift-boat-anchor/

Most people I know who row drift boats on rivers with rapids use these.

I've had good luck with a length of old steel chain on my canoe. Boom chain is pretty easy to find around here--all of mine was discovered in the woods--and a length that is maybe 6 feet long, attached at both ends and in the middle, conforms to any bottom but offers no resistance to being removed.
 
If you are in rocks and current, these are great, if expensive. I'm guessing someone with welding skills could make one for less than they retail for here: https://www.hydeoutdoors.com/product/spike-drift-boat-anchor/

Most people I know who row drift boats on rivers with rapids use these.

I've had good luck with a length of old steel chain on my canoe. Boom chain is pretty easy to find around here--all of mine was discovered in the woods--and a length that is maybe 6 feet long, attached at both ends and in the middle, conforms to any bottom but offers no resistance to being removed.
Click to expand...

People here also make anchors similar to that with a length of pvc with holes, rebar in and out of holes add eye for chain and then fill with concrete. Rebar bends when stick.
 
Reef anchors are what they call them down here, popular for anchoring on hard-bottom spots.
Like Todd noted, some guys makes their own out of PVC, rebar & concrete.
 
A commercial version of the re-bar anchor - wicked expensive but: link thingy

First time I saw these, was a welded up homemade version in Cozumel diving. The tines would straighten out when yanked out under reverse. A length of pipe was then used to bend the re-bar back into shape on deck.

Being of frugal Scottish decent, I've gone with inexpensive river anchors tied directly to the line w/o chain and so far have had good luck. From Walmart these 12# size are under $20.

Of course there is no perfect design, if your line gets under a rock, your not getting it back without diving.

Scott
 
Reef anchors are what they call them down here, popular for anchoring on hard-bottom spots.
Like Todd noted, some guys makes their own out of PVC, rebar & concrete.
Click to expand...

Yes, both Jeff's and Scott's style can be made with PVC, concrete and rebar. Never used them, but have seen them.
 
As noted above, I think you need a wreck anchor. I will send you a message with a link to a web site from a local Jersey manufacturer.
 
If you have, or can put a "eye" on the other end of the anchor, tie a line with small float to it, pull up to the float and pull the anchor out "backwards".
Grapnel anchors often have them, and that type would probably work better then the navy type which is designed for mud.
 
Ditto.

I'm a big Old School fan of Navy (stockless) anchors - but I hunt in mud and sand. Grapnel is the traditional type for rocky bottoms. A trip line on a separate float is great insurance for getting them unstuck.

SJS
 
Thanks for all the input Guys!!
I make almost all my stuff so I may try both designs and
Yes I will try to recover them this summer.
Thanks again John
 
http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=484094&stc=1&d=1418779249

Have you tried the zip tie or wire method? I've never done it but have heard it works quite well

Tony
 
As Steve mentioned, I put a line on the head as a trip and attach to a lobster pot buoy. Never lost a anchor.
The grapple anchor with eyes on each end is great. Attach the anchor line to the other end and fold the line back to the shank eye and tie with lite ty wrap. A little power and the wrap breaks and pull out backwards.
 
Just a word of caution on the zip tie method. To work properly you have to apply the force at a more vertical angle than the anchor shank. In a small craft applying this much vertical force is tough with small outboards and will pull down on the boat significantly. A friend borrowed my grappling hook (that I had salvaged diving) to use on Watch Hill Reef. He had a 25 ft w/ twin 140 HP outboards and figured he could pop the tie fairly easily. Well I don't know if the line got under the rocks or if the tie was too strong, but the first time he snagged it, he had to cut it off.

This wacky sketch should show how little force gets generated to break the tie. Your pulling along the red anchor rode. The Rode wants to straighten out to the light blue path but is held by the tie. The force on the tie is represented by the dark blue line. This also represents the force vectors being applied. The blue line is way shorter than the red line to the boat. The more vertical the pull the greater the force but that's also pulling the boat downward harder.

View attachment AnchorTieBreaker.jpg

So my recommendation? Practice in calm warm water, with your boat, to determine if and what tie size works. Will your bow (or other tie point) get pulled under in chop while tugging to break the tie free?

Scott
 
IMAG0019_zpsx9fwnpjj.jpg

This is the anchor I use in the Delaware river when fishing and I have used it for Tog fishing in rocks. I have not tried it in a wreck yet. The concept is the chain pulls the tines in to the rocks and when you are ready to pull the anchor the chain runs along the rail to the front and pulls the tines out of the rocks. no zip ties needed. If it gets stuck the 1/2 metal bends under the power of the boat.
 
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Here on the Columbia river people use a "columbia river anchor". Just google it and you will see plenty of images. The Zip tie method that was already mentioned is standard practice. With any other type of anchor just plan on loosing it sooner than later. When it is wedged in the rocks you pull hard enough and the zip ties break and now you can pull up the anchor. Just keep some extra zip ties in the boat. I have seen many and used a couple home made ones as they are easy to make if you have access to a welder.
 
i made one like shawn's about 15 years ago and i put a small bend in the rail kind of looks like the letter "b" when it gets stuck the shackle slides down the rail and into bend either way its made, the design works very well i have not lost it yet
 
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