Black cork decoy question....

Jeff Jacobs

Jeff Jacobs

Active member
Hey guys, I've got a rig of seven mallards I'm putting together out of good ole black cork. My question is what do you use to fill the big viods on the cork? I know some guys just leave the voids and paint as is, but I personally prefer the smoother look. I've also heard of a mix of glue and saw dust and Kilz and saw dust. Has anybody ever used body filler? Any and all suggestions welcome.

Thanks,

Jeff
 
Al Mc Cormicks method was to fill the big voinds with plastic wood. Then he would fill in the small voids with cork dust and spar varnish. My McCormick Blacks, Geese and Broadbill are about 40 years old and still in use.
 
Jeff,
After sealing with spar i have used bondo on the flat bottom of my decoys,upper voids are filled with cork dust and glue or spar.
Bill.
 
Most of my birds are black cork.
I fill the larger voids with rubber cement mixed with cork dust then finish with spar varnish
mixed with more cork dust after the rubber cement dries. Lastly 2-3 heavy coats of spar.
Works for me, John
 
I have used bondo and it works. The dust and glue method is easier. The latest one I used cork dust mixed with glue to fill in the big holes. After that cured i put on a skim coat of Bondo to fill in the little pits and holes left. Before the Bondo set up. I rubbed it with an acetone soaked rag to smooth it out more and eliminate any sanding. The surface was still a bit 'corky'.

I have filled and sanded smooth with Bondo to create a very smooth surface on a couple decoys. However, that was too much work and defeated the point of a quick and easy cork decoy. It was way too easy to sand too much and go through the sseal coat down to raw cork. Then reseal and resand. Whoops, repeat, etc.
 
All the replies are really excellent. I like the idea of the rubber cement. That is pretty neat.

Another option to consider is using Titebond II as your sealer and slurry. I make a 50/50 mixture of Titebond II and water, and dunk the bird. Allow a day or two to dry, and then repeat. On the second dunk, while wet, mix in your cork dust to fill the big voids. Allow a couple days to dry and cure, and then sand. It won't fill them as smooth as the other suggestions, but you'll fill the large voids and still the the "look" of black cork.

Best,
Steve
 
Hi Jeff. I like using sawdust and Titebond II. I mix it up fairly wet and smoosh it into place with my finger. This woorks especially well for repairing damaged black cork decoys. Then I sand with an old half sheet jitterbug type sander to take off the high spots and paint with one very thin coat of Rustoleum black followed by a coat of full strength Rustoleum black, then the color coat.

John Bourbon
 
Hi Jeff my father taught my to use fine black cork filings & mix it with elmers glue. Make it into a putty, fill hole let dry & sand and your done never had one fall out. Joe
 
q wlurry of cork dust and VAL-OIL, which is hard to find----probably spar varnish will be a fine substitute--A must, WEAR RUBBER GLOVES when doing this--Preferably, work outside, since this is one messy task--Allow plenty of cure time- you may sand lightly, then prime and paint---First experience with cork involved bsc and the slurry thing--Did it once, then found WILEY, thanks to my gunning partners. Some of those dekes are still kicking around in the shed,
 
cork dust and VAL-OIL, which is hard to find
Click to expand...

I've been postponing making some BSC coots for my own rig, but was planning on doing as George says...and you can find Val Oil, they keep in on the shelf at the Lowes by me in gallon cans (squarish cans...like thinner, not round like paint). I switched to it for sealing over a year ago and have been happy and it is about half the cost of spar, even when I cut the spar 50/50 with thinner.

Chuck
 
I like to go oversized with my black cork and keep it as simple as possible using only a file to shape the bodies.

One big ole heavy coat of spar (no filler), and in the case of the hens, I am good to go. I do add some color to the drakes, but again, simple.

These are 6 per sheet decoys (18x9x4) bottom of the boat blocks.

It's all fun and good! :)

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/6/sdc10878w.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/849/sdc10879.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/36/sdc10880v.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/202/sdc10881s.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/402/sdc10882l.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/199/sdc10883l.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/4/sdc10884s.jpg/
 
I only mention my method since it is not already mentioned.

I use PL Premium poly glue (in the tubes). Mix it with cork dust and fill. Then I roll the sticky mess in some more dry cork dust as it sets. PL expands some, so you don't get a bondo type finish. Rolling it in the cork dust gives it a bit of a restle type coating. After it cures it is very tough, but still a bit flexible.

PS - rubber gloves are absolutely required - you will have glue on you for days if you don't.
 
The dust you gathered from carving, mixed into a slurry with val-oil, of a good spar varnish, smeared into the holes, using rubber gloves, allowed to dry, then sanded will work just aces!
 
Bob, i gave up on bsc and valoil when i noticed that black goobers were still coming outta my nose two weeks AFTER grinding outside--Thank God my partners hooked me on Wiley.
I assume it may still be found in certain wooden floored, ceiling fanned, mom and pop hardware stores. hehehhehehe
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top