Great, that sounds like a good setup. I'll for sure go power tilt adn electric start.
Dealer rigging for warranty???
- Thread starter tod osier
- Start date
Great, that sounds like a good setup. I'll for sure go power tilt adn electric start.
Today, Check out this link. Looks like they will ship your outboard after they run diagnostics in house per manufacturer warranty. Richard
www.boatspecialists.com
Tohatsu 40hp Outboard | MFS40AETS
Authorized Tohatsu Outboard Dealership. Tohatsu MFS40AETS. Specs include Tiller or Remote Mechanical steering, Electric start, 15" Short shaft, Power Trim & Tilt.
www.boatspecialists.com
I hate spell check; changed Tod to Today...
Another way to look at it is if an online seller can rig an outboard to run diagnostics in-house and then ship to a customer, your local dealer should be able to do the same minus shipping. I would want to drill my own holes as well so they could be properly sealed with epoxy. Richard
Today, Check out this link. Looks like they will ship your outboard after they run diagnostics in house per manufacturer warranty. Richard
Tohatsu 40hp Outboard | MFS40AETS
Authorized Tohatsu Outboard Dealership. Tohatsu MFS40AETS. Specs include Tiller or Remote Mechanical steering, Electric start, 15" Short shaft, Power Trim & Tilt.
Wow, that is a Fantastic lead. Thanks for taking the time to share it. I'm appreciative.
T
Tod - discussed this with my local dealer. I'm going to go by with my transom later this week and borrow their template so I can pre-drill (I want to go oversize and refill with epoxy so the final holes have no wood exposure). Easier to do with just a transom, but thought I'd share as your dealer my let you do something similarl. Maybe take in a scrap of wood or even cardboard, mark with the template and transfer to your boat
Jeff Reardon
Well-known member
Why should the state not getting sales tax affect the warrantee? Or is the commercial discount more than just the waived tax?
Bill Ferrar
Well-known member
Tod What are the dealer charging for the install? I'm in the same boat as you, I am looking to replace my pull start , tiller 40 Yama with an electric start.
The prices I have got for install was free to $1000. Some dealers stated they need to adjust the engine using a computer. Some said there is no adjustments needed for a tiller but they need to put the tiller on which equals labor..
The most expensive stated they also put the boat in the water to get the correct prop for RPM.
As for mounting the engine they all stated if I have a 40 4 stroke on now they will not need to drill any holes.
The prices I have got for install was free to $1000. Some dealers stated they need to adjust the engine using a computer. Some said there is no adjustments needed for a tiller but they need to put the tiller on which equals labor..
The most expensive stated they also put the boat in the water to get the correct prop for RPM.
As for mounting the engine they all stated if I have a 40 4 stroke on now they will not need to drill any holes.
Hi Bill, I bailed since the current motor is OK and I'm in transition slowly moving west.
I was thinking if you got a commercial discount then it was commercial use and the manufacturer doesn't warranty for commercial.
Update on how it goes and the rigging price. I like the idea of overboring the holes and redrilling, I just slightly over bored and coated with multiple coats and then 5200. When you refill are you going to use something like milled fibers to strengthen the epoxy?
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Yes. Will probably do that as part of laminating the transom doubler to the transom, effectively making the refills part of the bond. I think I may go ahead and do all that now on the table, rather than after stitch and glue.
I like that plan of doing it ahead. An inset of coosa or some sort of FRP would be interesting to consider, but obviously would consider some engineering thought.
I assume you know about McMaster-Carr for doo-dads like over-size and over-thick washers if you wanted them.
You might tint the epoxy you are filling in the predrilled holes with some sort of tint like black or red. Might help later after it is all cured to see the exact holes so you can do the final drilling for the outboard. Unless you have you will have something covering up on both sides. Just and idea I had when reading your plan.
Henry, I never got around to replying to your idea of sandwiching fiberglass between layers of plywood for a transom. My poleboat doesn't have a transom but I did that very same thing for the floor (sole). I laminated two layers of 6 mil plywood with a layer of 6 oz fiberglass in-between. My logic was to prevent moisture intrusion, if it ever did occur, from affecting both sides. I think it also makes it harder to starve the joint of epoxy. Richard
Neal Haarberg
Active member
I would agree that a dealer will not get teh motor dialed in correctly. The past 2 motors I purchased were installed by the dealer. Both were installed way to low and were over proped. When I got my 40hp Yamaha the dealer said that it "sounded" like it was running at about 5500 RPM. I put a tach on it and it was barely getting over 4000. and that was with just me in the boat. no gear, blind , dog, decoys, another hunter.... I told them ahead of time that I would check and they had not problem exchanging the prop.
roy brewington
Well-known member
I,ve only bought 1 motor thru my brothers commercial waterman's license. No tax was the only discount. The warranty restrictions are probably due to motor being used commercial , hence a harder life. Of course waterman benefits as using it as a write off on taxes.