Devlin bluebill build thread.
- Thread starter Paul W
- Start date
Ron Schuna
Well-known member
I would use wide velcro strips to hold this type of mat down if you use them. Not being certain on whether or not they absorb water..The military camp mats won't.
Doing the odds and ends now..
Got the bow eye to a place I think it will work, although the roller needs replacing.
Rear catch cover for bilge:
Front catch cover:
Yesterday I added the front anchor zig zag cleat, the dock line, rewired the trailer, and cut/drilled my little mahogany blocks I will be Attaching to hold the shock cord for grassing. Pics of that stuff to come
Got the bow eye to a place I think it will work, although the roller needs replacing.
Rear catch cover for bilge:
Front catch cover:
Yesterday I added the front anchor zig zag cleat, the dock line, rewired the trailer, and cut/drilled my little mahogany blocks I will be Attaching to hold the shock cord for grassing. Pics of that stuff to come
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Matt~
Nice design on those drain hatches!
SJS
Nice design on those drain hatches!
SJS
Who's Matt?
thanks Steve! Simpler is better!Here she is afloat float floating.... Took it out and heated up the motor. Every Sunday my dad's side of the family goes out on a houseboat we own on the river for dinner and campfires, sand castles etc. I brought my bluebill along and gave no shortage of rides and had a lot of fun. I got a 3 gallon tank that fits nicely up under the deck, and finally got around to getting a line made up for the merc 15. Me my wife and daughter had fun going to and from the ramp.
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Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Sorry, Paul!
I'm guessing I was multi-tasking - reading the "foam MATTress" post while writing to you.....
Sounds like a fine time afloat,
SJS
I'm guessing I was multi-tasking - reading the "foam MATTress" post while writing to you.....
Sounds like a fine time afloat,
SJS
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Paul~
I use the foam from typical bed mattresses for my boat sponges. As with many things, I scrounge pieces wherever I find them. It cuts nicely on a bandsaw. Because it's open cell - but with small cells - it seems to hold pretty much its entire volume in water.
Glad you like the flag!
SJS
I use the foam from typical bed mattresses for my boat sponges. As with many things, I scrounge pieces wherever I find them. It cuts nicely on a bandsaw. Because it's open cell - but with small cells - it seems to hold pretty much its entire volume in water.
Glad you like the flag!
SJS
Just thought I'd post up how I did my eyelets for the shock cord.
First I cut and sand/rounded all the blocks, and beveled each side of the eyelet hole with a rolled up sheet of sandpaper, then I mixed up 4 oz of epoxy, and dunked them. Let them soak for about a minute or two, then pulled them out and set em on a sheet of paper to soak in/ excess run off.
I gave them a few minutes to run off and dunked them again.
Then I mixed up the remaining epoxy with Cabosil to make a paste and pushed then on, with small fillets made by my finger.
Will sand and paint and run shock cord sometime soon. Also in the process of removing some leaves from my too stiff springs.
First I cut and sand/rounded all the blocks, and beveled each side of the eyelet hole with a rolled up sheet of sandpaper, then I mixed up 4 oz of epoxy, and dunked them. Let them soak for about a minute or two, then pulled them out and set em on a sheet of paper to soak in/ excess run off.
I gave them a few minutes to run off and dunked them again.
Then I mixed up the remaining epoxy with Cabosil to make a paste and pushed then on, with small fillets made by my finger.
Will sand and paint and run shock cord sometime soon. Also in the process of removing some leaves from my too stiff springs.
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Steve (or anyone else who used shock cord) did you just tie a simple knot at the end to keep it from going through whatever you ran it through?
just curious what works. all my little wooden eyelet thingers are attached and epoxied now, going to let cure a few days before painting. planning on using the boat again tomorrow.
just curious what works. all my little wooden eyelet thingers are attached and epoxied now, going to let cure a few days before painting. planning on using the boat again tomorrow.
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Paul~
I use a figure-8 knot - simple to tie and a good "stopper knot":
Glad you're getting her out on the water a lot!
SJS
I use a figure-8 knot - simple to tie and a good "stopper knot":
Glad you're getting her out on the water a lot!
SJS
Boat has shock cord now finally! Was unsure of how much tension o use, but can always add some more. The figure eight worked flawlessly as a stopper knot.
Can't wait to stuff some grass in there and see how she kills geese. I am goin to do some trailer work, but it's pretty much done.
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Good morning, Paul~
Glad the figure 8 worked so well - the boat looks great!
I lash each bundle on with a biodegradable twine (sisal) so I can just cut it and toss it away to rot down when it's time to re-thatch. I use a square knot for this purpose. As you see, I run 2 rows to keep the bundles oriented where I want them - more or less 90 degrees from the line of shock cord. You may need to tie the upper ends of your bundles to each other so they do not slew around - especially when trailering.
Keep the progress photos coming!
SJS
Glad the figure 8 worked so well - the boat looks great!
I lash each bundle on with a biodegradable twine (sisal) so I can just cut it and toss it away to rot down when it's time to re-thatch. I use a square knot for this purpose. As you see, I run 2 rows to keep the bundles oriented where I want them - more or less 90 degrees from the line of shock cord. You may need to tie the upper ends of your bundles to each other so they do not slew around - especially when trailering.
Keep the progress photos coming!
SJS
Well it's only early goose and there's already damage to the boat. I have a feeling it's due to the way I strapped it down for the trip north and back for goosin'.
Motor clamps loosened so it vibrated and ate into the boat.
So I whipped up some epoxy filler and used a spreader to put it in.
Then I figured since I needed filler id glue these down because I was planning to next year anyway.
I am planning to use wire to keep clamps from loosening, and change how I've been strapping the back down. Also add pieces of alum on contact area of transom.
Motor clamps loosened so it vibrated and ate into the boat.
So I whipped up some epoxy filler and used a spreader to put it in.
Then I figured since I needed filler id glue these down because I was planning to next year anyway.
I am planning to use wire to keep clamps from loosening, and change how I've been strapping the back down. Also add pieces of alum on contact area of transom.
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Paul~
Sorry to see this damage! But, it looks like you've already got the repairs well in hand.
A couple of thoughts.
First, you should definitely have motor mount pads on the inside. (Of course, I cannot find them after a quick web search....) They both protect the transom (with rubber or leather pads inside) AND - most important - prevent the motor from twisting up an off the transom (I learned that lesson the hard way in my youth).
Rather than use aluminum on the outside, I would consider something softer - either 1/4" plywood (just painted - expect it to get chewed up a bit) or hard rubber. They used to make pads for this purpose - maybe still do. (see http://www.aquamarineboat.com/index.php?mode=prod&id=243&PHPSESSID=a27cf437c0d456ee34ae93b1763eb869). I always keep some rubber around from truck inner tubes for purposes like this. You could just glue it on.
All the best,
SJS
Sorry to see this damage! But, it looks like you've already got the repairs well in hand.
A couple of thoughts.
First, you should definitely have motor mount pads on the inside. (Of course, I cannot find them after a quick web search....) They both protect the transom (with rubber or leather pads inside) AND - most important - prevent the motor from twisting up an off the transom (I learned that lesson the hard way in my youth).
Rather than use aluminum on the outside, I would consider something softer - either 1/4" plywood (just painted - expect it to get chewed up a bit) or hard rubber. They used to make pads for this purpose - maybe still do. (see http://www.aquamarineboat.com/index.php?mode=prod&id=243&PHPSESSID=a27cf437c0d456ee34ae93b1763eb869). I always keep some rubber around from truck inner tubes for purposes like this. You could just glue it on.
All the best,
SJS
Capt Rich Geminski
Well-known member
I usually use the 1/4 ply as a wear plate. Usually a little glue to hold it in place.
Not the best pictures, but I wrapped a piece of SS around mine. All the finished pics of it painted, don't show any details.
I did radius the corners and then bedded it with 5200. I then drilled through the SS and the motorboard so the motor is bolted on.
I still tighten the clamps, and then lock them to keep the honest people honest, and slow down the dishonest. When I suspect areas,
I run a bike cable lock through the motor and a rear grab handle too. I have been thinking of maybe adding a leash from the motor to
the boat just in case the motorboard should fail... but it is 2" mahogany, epoxied to the hull, with 4 3/8" ss bolts through and backed
with fender washers and a piece of azek decking. But I am belt and suspenders type engineer.
I did radius the corners and then bedded it with 5200. I then drilled through the SS and the motorboard so the motor is bolted on.
I still tighten the clamps, and then lock them to keep the honest people honest, and slow down the dishonest. When I suspect areas,
I run a bike cable lock through the motor and a rear grab handle too. I have been thinking of maybe adding a leash from the motor to
the boat just in case the motorboard should fail... but it is 2" mahogany, epoxied to the hull, with 4 3/8" ss bolts through and backed
with fender washers and a piece of azek decking. But I am belt and suspenders type engineer.
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