Gorilla Glue

Ben M

Ben M

Active member
I'm finally starting construction on my ply on frame boat and wondering what opinions are on the use of Gorilla Glue in the frames. Thoughts?

It doesn't produce noxious fumes like epoxy and you don't have to accurately predict how much you'll use before you mix up a batch. No mixing at all. Just thought it would be nice and easy . . . if it's strong enough to use at all! Hahaha . . .
 
I wouldn't use gorilla glue if it were me. Gorilla glue breaks down over time IMHO. And when is exposed to cold temps it will not keep is bond. There are other products out there that will work better. Thickened epoxy With wood flour or another thickening product is what i would use IMHO.
 
I wonder what the Time for breakdown is. I have been using gorilla for years on decoy bottom boards
laminated duck calls ect and have yet to have a failure with GG. Maybe if left unsealed by paint
or such its more apt for breakdown? I even have a few contractors that have used it to put a
subfloor down.. NEVER WILL CREEK!! lol feel bad for the sucker that someday may have to
repair that flooring.
 
Dave,

Same experience here. I put keels on some can decoys 12-15 years ago with GG and haven't lost one since.

As far as putting a boat together, use epoxy, that's where it shines. Epoxy does not produce noxtious fumes like poly does. Yes, it does require measuring and mixing but that's no big deal, you'll learn real fast.
 
Very interesting, thanks for that article Brian. I used GG on my keels years ago because of the gap filling and waterproof properties. Fortunately there isn't a lot of stress on keels so the joints have held up just fine. Next time I guess I'll use Titebond lll.
 
Brian,

I remember reading that article when it first came out. What I thought most interesting is the power of advertising. Gorilla Glue was one of the new glues and even tho Elmer's wood working glues seem to be superior products, Elmer's saw the need to market their own version of "Gorilla" glue.
 
noxious fumes like epoxy
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I have yet to find an epoxy resin that produced noxious fumes. Smell funny, but no fumes or gasses. I have found several polyester resins that drove me out of my garage. Poly glue that is not painted over will be impacted by UV rays if left in the sun. I used it a few years ago to fix up some stuff that I was not planning on painting, and the glue yellowed in a year and became brittle. Much like spray foam.
 
Wow . . . great article, Brian!

So . . . I went and bought some Titebond III & did a little test. Thought about posting my pictures and results, but then found a couple of other forums where guys have done such extensive, detailed glue testing that I started to just feel stupid. Hahaha . . .

I found the two glues (Titebond III & Gorilla Glue) to be comparable to each other, but this was after only 24hrs of glue curing. I've since read that TB III requires up to 7 days to "fully" cure. Since the two were roughly similar after only 24hrs, I can only assume that TB III would sufficiently kick GG's can after its full-cure time. Both of my test joints exhibited wood failure, not glue failure.

Given TB III's ease of cleanup and water resistance, in my opinion, it would be the superior glue for a glass-over-wood boat. TB III is water RESISTANT, whereas GG is water PROOF, so I'm still considering using GG for below the waterline stuff. But, the whole boat will be encased in epoxy/glass, so . . .

Here's what I think: I'm building a duck boat. It's going to be banged and scratched and abused. Even if the joints hold for 50+ years, the rest of the boat likely won't last that long. These glues are so close in performance that, until someone proves differently, I don't think it makes a whole lot of difference which I choose.

Thanks for the great responses!
 
Wow . . . great article, Brian!

So . . . I went and bought some Titebond III & did a little test. Thought about posting my pictures and results, but then found a couple of other forums where guys have done such extensive, detailed glue testing that I started to just feel stupid. Hahaha . . .

I found the two glues (Titebond III & Gorilla Glue) to be comparable to each other, but this was after only 24hrs of glue curing. I've since read that TB III requires up to 7 days to "fully" cure. Since the two were roughly similar after only 24hrs, I can only assume that TB III would sufficiently kick GG's can after its full-cure time. Both of my test joints exhibited wood failure, not glue failure.

Given TB III's ease of cleanup and water resistance, in my opinion, it would be the superior glue for a glass-over-wood boat. TB III is water RESISTANT, whereas GG is water PROOF, so I'm still considering using GG for below the waterline stuff. But, the whole boat will be encased in epoxy/glass, so . . .

Here's what I think: I'm building a duck boat. It's going to be banged and scratched and abused. Even if the joints hold for 50+ years, the rest of the boat likely won't last that long. These glues are so close in performance that, until someone proves differently, I don't think it makes a whole lot of difference which I choose.

Thanks for the great responses!
Click to expand...


Consider that neither compares to a good epoxy for boat building.
 
Tod, that article puts epoxy second to Titebond III in strength . . . well, by 1% anyway! Hahaha . . . I have no doubt that epoxy is more waterproof than TB III. But, if the whole finished structure is sealed in epoxy/fiberglass, TB III seems like a smart choice. It is 1/3 the cost of epoxy, requires no mixing (and therefore next to zero waste), and cleans up easily with water while it's still wet. Now, I'm a greenhorn. I don't know squat when it comes to building boats. If I'm being a moron, I'm completely open to being called out on it. :) If I'm stupid for trying to use TB III on a boat, tell me. But to my way of thinking, it seems like a good choice . . . as long as the boat is finished in epoxy & fiberglass. What say you?
 
Tod, that article puts epoxy second to Titebond III in strength . . . well, by 1% anyway! Hahaha . . . I have no doubt that epoxy is more waterproof than TB III. But, if the whole finished structure is sealed in epoxy/fiberglass, TB III seems like a smart choice. It is 1/3 the cost of epoxy, requires no mixing (and therefore next to zero waste), and cleans up easily with water while it's still wet. Now, I'm a greenhorn. I don't know squat when it comes to building boats. If I'm being a moron, I'm completely open to being called out on it. :) If I'm stupid for trying to use TB III on a boat, tell me. But to my way of thinking, it seems like a good choice . . . as long as the boat is finished in epoxy & fiberglass. What say you?
Click to expand...


Ben, I'm going by what I've read, done, seen and the norms of the industry as I understand them. My concern specifically with TBIII relates to exactly what you expressed above:

"It's going to be banged and scratched and abused. "

Take a glass encapsulated boat with a few penetrations of the epoxy (intentional or not) and once water gets in the structure it will be in there forever working away at the water resistant glue. Epoxy and glass encapsulations get breached all the time, especially in boats that get used.

Moron or stupid - no. But I'd say your concerns are misplaced. Given the amount of time you will put into a boat (huge labor investment) and the conditions you will likely use it under, using the best materials for the job makes sense to me.
 
I have a pdf article from finewoodworking.com that details a test of many glue types, woods, and joint looseness. The link http://www.finewoodworking.com/FWNPDF/011192036.pdf You have to have a membership. If someone wants the article send a private message. I have no clue on how to post a pdf in the forum.
 
Tod, that article puts epoxy second to Titebond III in strength . . . well, by 1% anyway! Hahaha . . . I have no doubt that epoxy is more waterproof than TB III. But, if the whole finished structure is sealed in epoxy/fiberglass, TB III seems like a smart choice. It is 1/3 the cost of epoxy, requires no mixing (and therefore next to zero waste), and cleans up easily with water while it's still wet. Now, I'm a greenhorn. I don't know squat when it comes to building boats. If I'm being a moron, I'm completely open to being called out on it. :) If I'm stupid for trying to use TB III on a boat, tell me. But to my way of thinking, it seems like a good choice . . . as long as the boat is finished in epoxy & fiberglass. What say you?
Click to expand...


Ben, I'm going by what I've read, done, seen and the norms of the industry as I understand them. My concern specifically with TBIII relates to exactly what you expressed above:

"It's going to be banged and scratched and abused. "

Take a glass encapsulated boat with a few penetrations of the epoxy (intentional or not) and once water gets in the structure it will be in there forever working away at the water resistant glue. Epoxy and glass encapsulations get breached all the time, especially in boats that get used.

Moron or stupid - no. But I'd say your concerns are misplaced. Given the amount of time you will put into a boat (huge labor investment) and the conditions you will likely use it under, using the best materials for the job makes sense to me.
Click to expand...

Good points . . .
 
I wouldn't use Gorilla Glue on a boat, or anything you really need to last. I've had a lot of experience with it. It holds well initially, but after 2-3 years it becomes brittle and looses much of its strength. The bond is doomed to fail. I've had better luck with PL brand Premium Construction Adhesive. I now use that for my less important stuff. I wouldn't use it on a boat though. The only adhesive I would use on a boat is thickened epoxy.

Ed.
 
No the Fine Woodworking does not take into account the different formulations and brands of epoxy. What is does do is cuts through the assumptions and reduces each glues properties and performance to a test that uses the same procedure for each. Thus, what may have been common thought is reduce to the "gee epoxy is not always the strongest glue".. Now who would have assumed that.

Would I use PVA type1 to replace epoxy in a boat build? Probably not given the possible exposure to water on a long term basis.

Matt
 
This is a great example of why this forum is incredibly valuable! Thank you so much for all the advice!

Really not feeling terribly confident in anything but epoxy now . . .
 
Something I haven't read on this thread yet, is all I have read on strip built boats/canoes just say to use the old type yellow wood glue. I don't think this stuff is very water resistant, but a few thousand have been built over the years, & quite suscefully too. I know they are epoxy covered inside& out + UV varnished. I think there is a place for the titebond glues if one wants to use them. This said, I only used epoxy when I built my boat. On my next build, a strip canoe, I'm going to use titebond II, if for nothing else, the slower set up time, price & ease of use(ie~ no mixing~no waste of partial batches not used). Just my $.02.
Dennis
 
Wood strip Canoes are generally in the water for less time and in more ideal conditions than a duck boat. Plus there is rarely an outboard used on a strip canoe so the stresses are significantly less. Lastly canoes are usually stored indoors.
Our strip canoe was built with Wood glue 25 years ago and still looks great but it's not a duck boat by any stretch of the imagination.
It really depends on how you use your boat. If you think it may be out in big water, or snow or ice and will be stored outside then the decision is easy. If it will be rowed and kept indoors...then quite another.
 
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