NDR-T/C Omega??? Help!!!

P

Phil

Active member
My son and I went in on our first black powder gun last night a T/C Omega. Read the hole manual front to back twice. We took it to the gun club this afternoon to sight it in after dropping in the two pellets we put the sabot in to the plastic jacket put it in about an inch. Then was going to use the ram rod to push it the rest of the way but did not want to go I would have to use some extreme force, I'm talking 2 hands with a lot of force behind it. I don't know if I could have gotten it all the way in but ended up stopping because it just didn't seem right. It took a hammer tapping on the ram rod from the other end to get the sabot back out. Is this normal? Is it just because it's new? Any feedback would be grateful.
Thanks in advance
Phil
 
Phil ,

It may be the plastic on the sabots it is usually a tight fit anyways , i have a T/C hawkens and after a few shots it is tight to get the maxiball in , try a differnt sabot maybe ? Good luck



Dave M
 
I have the TC Omega. What bullets are you shooting out of it? To make it easier to seat rounds, I made a hardwood handle from a round dowel and drilled a hole half way through the middle of it to seat the ram rod. Use that to push the end of the rod and get the bullet and sabot down into the breach. You can really only shoot it 3 or 4 times before you need to clean it out, as the bullets/sabots will be wicked hard to get down due to the residue. I've found that the heavier rounds are really hard to seat. Anything in the 250 gr. with sabot should be OK though. Try a little bore butter on the sabot next time. It might help.



Nate
 
Phil not familiar with you particular rifle but with all new barrels they are not completely smooth until shot a few times. As nate said a little bore butter is needed. After cleaning the rifle a patch is run down the barrel with some bore butter on it. This does two things. It protects the barrel from rust and make the bullet or sabot easier to slide down the barrel. I am glad you stopped when you did. The ram rod can break and if it is wood can pierce you hand. You didn't mention having a short starter. This is used to start the bullet or sabot. It looks like a shot ram rod about six inches long with a ball or door nob on one end. The bullet is placed on the end of the barrel and pushed by hand and the shot starter is place on top of that and stuck by hand. ( a sharp rap ) until the bullet is down the barrel about five or six inches. Then you should be able to use the ram rod. If this does not work check to see if you have the correct sabot. I bought the wrong round balls once. One hundreds or thousands and they won't work.

A note.... that was in you safety manual but can not be over emphasized make sure the sabot is down all the way on the pellets before firing. We always put a mark on the ramrod when the gun is properly loaded that is even with the top of the barrel. This is your ultimate safety check. This is also useful to check if a muzzle loader is loaded or not. Happy hunting.
 
This may be a silly question but are you using the proper size sabot? Not trying to fit a .50 cal sabot into a .45 caliber gun are you?????????? I shoot a fair amount of black powder and have never had to force it with 2 hands.
 
this is one of the articles about TC barrels,

T/C has the tightest barrels in the industry; at least that has been my experience. It is good to have MMP 3 petal EZ sabots at the ready for .452 XTPs, and HPH-24 sabots from MMP set for Barnes MZ-Expanders. There is no substitute for range time, though, and we need to pull our own triggers. Being prepared with a variety of bags of sabots from MMP (they come in bags of 50) will maximize our range time with our new muzzleloaders. Trying the same bullet and sabot combination over and over again, yet hoping for different results was Einstein's definition of insanity.
 
Hi guys, Yes I got the right sabots, 50 cal. 250 grain the same exact ones that came with the gun. My son took the gun to a friend of his last night who is more familiar with black powder than us. They used the bore butter on it and got it all the way in but he thought it was to hard but then again I don't know what he shoots. I talked to another friend last night and he told me that he had the same problem with his Encore. So it sounds like maybe it's just a T/C problem. I'm going to pick up some bore butter today and some kind of wooden ball to put on the end of the ram rod to make it easier to push down on it. Maybe after some use it will get a little easier.

Wispete, it did come with a starter which also doubles as a wrench handle. I think when I get out of work tomorrow I might take by my local gunsmith see what he thinks.

rracioppi, Thanks for posting that site.

Nate doing any sea ducking yet?

Thanks again , you got to love this site it does not matter what problems you mite have you'll get help from all over the country.
 
Hey Phil,

The sea ducking is ridiculous up here right now, and I suspect down near you as well. We shot two birds short of a 4-man limit on Saturday. Got one banded hen eider. The birds are decoying well too. Three of the birds I shot were right over the decoys, at about 20-25 yards. I shot one at about 35-40 yards and that was probably the longest shot I made all day. There are a lot of birds around right now, which is great. How is your season going down there?


Nate
 
Phil,

I too have the 50 cal Omega and really like it. I have only shot the T/C sabots and .429 240 gr. pistol bullets in her and have not had the tight bore problem. But my New Englander was wicked tight, tight enough that I jammed a T/C cleaning Jag in it, not pretty without an easily removable breach plug.

You probably know this, but you asked, and it's the only thing I can think of: if your buying the sabots in bulk and supplying your own bullets - The 50 cal comes in two sizes, make sure you get the one for the dia bullets used. I assume with a 250 gr your shooting 45 cal. bullets They would not be happy in the .44 cal sabots.

From the T/C site:

View attachment sabot.jpg


And always remember T/C is just an 1.5 hr run north of you and their rifles are warranted for life. Give them a call and see if they can help you. They may be willing to lap the bore or swap barrels to a more "user friendly" fit.

It may not be primitive hunting but charcoal burners in any form are fun.
Good luck!

Scott
 
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Phil

A new barrel can sometimes have a rough finish in it. You can polish this right up using a solid cleaning jag wrapped with a special cloth. Get a piece of "Lead Away" cloth. It is made to remove stuck lead from a barrel. I am not saying that you have lead residue in a new barrel but the cloth does a wonderfull job of polishing out the tooling marks. You will be amazed at how much difference it will make.
 
Before you try to load it again, I would clean the barrel with some solvent or BP bore cleaner and run the brush through it a lot. Then, push some patches through it to get any remaining gunk. One thing you will come to notice is that all BP rifles need a lot of cleaning. They are high maintenance, but a lot of fun to shoot. I took my Omega on my bear hunt last September, and I will be using it next week for deer season up here in Gloucester.

Check out PRbullet.com. They have some interesting information on ballistics, pure lead bullets, and accessories for your rifle.



Nate
 
I hesitate to jump in on this zip gun stuff, as I may start a flame war similar to the spinner war. I suggest the best bullet in a muzzleloader is a patched round ball. It shoots faster, therefore flatter at reasonable range, is more stable, you can make your own so it's cheaper.
 
Matt it depends on the twist of the barrel. I cannot remember the number of turns but one barrel is suited for round balls the other for sabots. Maybe someone can chime in on the # of turns. I shoot a Hawkins percussion for deer and the barrel has a twist that is intended to be used with ball and patch.
 
Twist rate for round balls is around mid 60" (1 revolution in 66 inches). Rate for sabot type projectiles is closer to the mid to lower 40's ( 1 revolution in 42 inches). These will vary from gunmaker to gunmaker but thats the general range.
 
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Matt,

Patch round balls need a slow twist barrel, the Omega would not shoot them well.

The sabots allow the use of light projectiles with better stability and sectional density than the round ball. And imho a better performing projectile on target for the bore dia. When we had to hunt with patched round balls I hunted with a 54 cal and 58's were popular. 45 cal was almost unheard of while 50's where pretty much considered the smallest practical round ball shooter.

Scott
 
Okay you guys are loosing me now. I thought that these new inline black powder guns were suppose to be simple. I ended up calling T/C earlier and they said it just could be the sabots(blaming it on the manufacturer). I'm guessing they have heard this before because with out hesitation they said they would send me some new Super Glide sabots which are a little smaller and that they shouldn't be as tight. Has any body heard of these. I didn't see them on the T/C sight.
 
Clean the rifle.

Make the wooden ram rod handle.

Try seating the round again at the range.


It should work better. It is hard to seat the rounds, but with a clean rifle and a little bore lube, it will work. A little trick I learned from a friend, make a mark on your ram rod once you have seated a round correctly. That will be a good guide for when you seat consecutive loads in the rifle.


Nate
 
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