Aesthetics of the rub rail material aside, the boat design would be better served in terms of functionality by attaching a synthetic rub rail where the grassing rails are located currently; moving the forward grassing rail sections up onto the outboard margin of the fore deck in an arc; and attaching the starboard and port stern quarter grassing rails to the outboard faces of the molded splash guards where they will actually retain inserted grassing material to hide the boat. As currently configured, any grass inserted will be swept away when the boat is underway...
New Predator BBSB Sneak boat (formerly the Chuck Huff BBSB) info
- Thread starter Tony H
- Start date
While things are definately subject to modifications at this point and the grass rails could easily be mounted in an upright position through the deck hull joint without risk or issue as we made the deck hull joint this way on purpose for that very reason in case we changed our mind on the grass rail locations. adding a extra rub rail to the sides aling with the grass rails would cause a pretty expensive cost increase. But anything is possible. A black rub railing would run about 300.00 in parts for this boat not counting labor. Its our understanding from those helping us with this project that the end users will set these up so that bungie cords will be holding the grass to the deck of the boat(we wont be installing this system) and by moving the grass rails to the side of the boat it can be attached to the grass rails and laid over the boat and intertwined into the bungie systems or what ever the end user chooses to use. Personally I will tie grass matts to mine using the outer grass rails and allowing it to drape over the sides of the boat. to eliminate that shadow from the sides of the boat. We welcome all comments and suggestions for sure.
Thats how we make our boats the best they can be.
Thats how we make our boats the best they can be.
Interesting, I replaced the entire rub rail with insert tube on my old Boston Whaler Outrage 21' for roughly half the price you quote for materials. You may want to rethink your marine supply source...
https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/products/pvc-rub-rail-black-flex-1-2-oval-200ft-coils--ups-7378.html
https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/products/pvc-rub-rail-black-flex-1-2-oval-200ft-coils--ups-7378.html
you need a track to place that insert into as well. We use Taco marine products which is probably what these are. Looks like 7.20ish a ft plus shipping and the Stainless hardware and end caps to install it. My numbers are fine. You need the whole rub rail system not just the rubber inserts.
https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/products/rub-rail-insert-tubing-wh-f-92210f-to-500-ft-ups--7374.html
https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/products/rub-rail-uniflex-black-use-713tube-f-insert-ups--3657.html
I am well aware of what Taco marine offers, we are a dealer for their product and have pricing. Does it matter what kind of boat were building? As mentioned many times we use the best materials for our boats. I could use plywood for the transom and wood core too and skip the proper floatation requirements too. But I won't.
FYI here is the kit we use for rubrails. retail
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=6826&familyName=TACO+Flexible+Rub+Rail+Kit+2423
This is non productive at this point. We use the best materials for our boats for a reason. The Predator will be proof that it pays to use the proper materials and do things right the first time.
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I will be changing the location of the grass rails to see how they look. Like I said previously I am open to the mounting location and built the new molds so they could be mounted both ways without any holes that are not accessible and will still provide the hull deck joint attachment that we need from them. Either location will allow attachment and removal without issue. And honestly a rub rail probably isn't needed once the boats grassed anyway.
Apparently you don't realize that your initial response statement was that you would not be putting a rub-rail on this hull because of the prohibitive cost of labor and materials. So, help me understand the logic of your current statement that your build process involves use of top quality materials and techniques,when you have previously stated you will not be putting a rub rail on this boat?
Other examples that readily come to mind regarding quality materials used in construction of top line duckboats that are absent: 1.) No use of Kevlar in the bows of the TDB-14' and TDB-17'. 2.)You do not powder coat your blind frame parts. 3.)You don't use brass lift handles or metal cleats anymore on the TDBs.
I do appreciate good fiction!
Other examples that readily come to mind regarding quality materials used in construction of top line duckboats that are absent: 1.) No use of Kevlar in the bows of the TDB-14' and TDB-17'. 2.)You do not powder coat your blind frame parts. 3.)You don't use brass lift handles or metal cleats anymore on the TDBs.
I do appreciate good fiction!
Gary thanks for your interest in the Predator, I have tried to share this build and the complete process and how we will build them but seems always someone to take a good post and turn it into a pissing match. Im not interested in that. With that said the Predator is coming along nicely we are just about ready to take it to have the dodgers custom fit and made. We have installed 2 shelves one on each side of the cockpit and I changed the location of the grass rails and must say I do like them on top of the bow edge. Not sure how it will work for grassing but Id say it will work just fine this way as well. We take pride in our products and we have been in Business 15 years building boats and that speaks volumes of our work. Always a better way to do anything but price plays a role at some point. Be sure to watch our Facebook page and website for the Predator to be listed just as soon as we get the numbers back on the spray dodger and remember we can always tweak things slightly to the customers likings and are glad to do so if it doesn't effect the safety of the boat or its capacity ratings. I plan to post a few photos of the rails on the other way. Water Demo as soon as its back as well and I assure you this boat is built right and wont be flexing.
Shawn Linn
Active member
[quote; Im not going to continue to have this discussion with you. Its non productive and has nothing to do with this thread. Want to discuss the TDB start a new thread. ]
Why so you can get some more free advertising....this page is really starting to go in a direction I do not like
Why so you can get some more free advertising....this page is really starting to go in a direction I do not like
We were asked by members here to show the process of building boats. That is what this page is for. If you go to the boats page here you will find more than a dozen boats on that page that we build. And if someone asked to see one of our builds Im glad to share it. In the end that is what this is a boat building page correct? Shawn I am aware of your ties to another boat manufacturer and could see what this bothers you. Im pretty sure others have shared there boat builds and products here as well.
Shawn Linn
Active member
Yes Tony I have purchased two duck boss boats in my life and I help Rich on occasion because he is a friend of mine. I have never received a commission or other payment from the commercial sale of any boat. I have helped with the design of blinds and given opinions about improvements to the boats. By the way those blind brackets look familiar on your latest project. Advertising in my opinion starts when dollar amounts are added to a "build" thread.
Blind Brackets? We use simple bimini hardware on all our blinds. Unless your talking about the TDB blind mounts then I am pretty sure TDB was using those long before anyone else even thought about using them.Have no idea what your referring to. my latest project? Price was mentioned because I was asked how much they were going to be. I merely gave a rough estimate. Im not here posting Predator Sneak boats for sale. And will never do that.
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Back to the original thread topic. Here I have changed the location of the grass rails. I like the looks better this way, so if thats how you want them thats fine. I can live with it. It doesnt effect how they are mounted at all and still allows a full thru bolting of the deck and hull. Next is the water test. As soon as it stops raining and the river goes back down a few feet we will commence that testing. In the mean time the Predator is off to the canvas shop to tidy up the dodger and get those being made asap. I must say that Steve Sanford was right on with the teak colored grass rails they look great. Once the dodger is done in Tan 499 cordura with olive straps she should look great.
A few pics,
A few pics,
Shawn Linn
Active member
whatever you wish to believe is fine Tony, as you said the last time we disagreed your a donor I am not. have a nice evening
Jamie Allen
Member
I have to agree as well, the build process of any duck boat of any style is the most interesting part of it. Every boat build and or design share some features and components from other designers, there all duck boats. When I had my duckboss 13 built I had Tom send me pictures throughout the entire build just to see how it was constructed and assembled. The pedator has been a great step by step process of its construction and rhe time to post such has been greatly appreciated, Thanks Tony for sharing the process
