No Name Scull Boat Build......update........ We named her the Double Nickel.........

Dale C.

Active member
Maybe some of you would like to see how I constructed a new scull boat of my own design. I have owned a few scull boats over the years. I have never been totally happy with any of them. I started off building a Sculldugery II. I had a blast building it. But that is where it ended. I can’t recommend this design to anyone. The hull does not have enough upsweep in the stern. Thus making it extremely hard to scull. It takes way to much effort just to keep it in motion. It is also way to tall. If you get in a crosswind, it is uncontrollable. After I got rid of that boat I was pretty unsure if I even liked sculling. I looked at a used Lyn Lee sculler years earlier, but the guy wanted way to much, and it was in terrible shape. I didn’t buy it. If you have never heard of a Lyn Lee sculler before, it was the predecessor of the Hayden boat. I found out this years later. Bob Hayden, with permission from Lyn & Lee, started building new boats under the Hayden name. Well... that Lyn Lee that I had looked at popped up in my head. I remembered where the guy lived. I was working in the area, so I thought I would stop and see if he still had the boat. I knocked on the door and a different person answered the door. I thought I was to late. I told the guy my story, and to my surprise he told me that he had left a bunch of stuff out in the back 40. He said there was a funny looking little grey boat out there and I could look at it. There it was, only in much worse condition. It was sitting on an old rusty trailer, half full of water. Someone had put a open can of some type of solvent in the boat, that had eaten a basket ball size hole in the bottom. The seam was split about half way around also. What a mess. The guy said I could have it, if I hauled off the trailer too. So with the Help of my buddy OLD Leonard (a member here) We hauled her home. Over the next year or so I brought new life to her. She was beautiful! Extremely low, super stealthy, and sculled like a dream. I got quite an education using polyester resins. I had one problem with the boat, the combing was so low, that I couldn't hide my arm movement. I’m 6’2” and over 200. I’m fortunate in living on the west coast, in that there are almost always scull boats on Craig's List. I ended up three scull boats, of different designs. That got me thinking that If I could take the best features of all the boats that I have sculled, and combine then that would be cool. After a few years of this in my head. I thought, maybe I should look for a scull boat with a hull design that I liked, and redo the deck. I kind of looked around a while, but none were cheap enough to tear apart and redo.
With all these ideas flying around in my head, I found a site on the web, where this guy built a Kevlar canoe, with a foam male mold. The light bulb went off in my head, and I hatched a plan. I’ll make my own design from scratch! I talked to OLD Leonard about my thoughts. He said he would help. But he wanted one as well. This threw a fly in the ointment.... The mold would have to be strong enough, to stand up to de molding, then re used. I’m going to post up pictures, and walk you through the process. I’ll post up pictures every few days. I’m not fast at typing, so this will take me a while.
The hull of the Lyn Lee was by far, my favorite. We would base the design with a similar shape. I Really like how wide across the front it is. It really helps hide the sides of the boat. I wanted to get away from the flange joint that fastens the top & bottom halves. So I decided to use a shoe box joint instead. These first pictures show how we made the strong back and laid out the frames. The strong back is made of plywood and a length of storefront aluminum u channel.
I’m going to warn you now there will pictures of OLD Leonard. I know he looks kind of like a homeless guy, but he’s harmless, and doesn’t stink to bad.......

[URL=http://s1258.photobucket.com/user/dcducker/media/scull%20build/005_zpsd711bf37.jpg.html][URL=http://s1258.photobucket.com/user/dcducker/media/scull%20build/005_zps1f20eef4.jpg.html][URL=http://s1258.photobucket.com/user/dcducker/media/scull%20build/001_zps118d1775.jpg.html]
 
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Dale~

Great story! I will be following your build with great interest.

QUESTION: It looks to my eye - from your photos - that the line of the keel "hogs" a bit (an inch?) amidships. Is this correct? If so, do you know how it affects performance/handling?

All the best,

SJS
 
Thank you for posting this. I was trying to check out the process on the scullers forum but the pics wont load.

Im going to take a lot of notes...
 
Dale-

I look forward to watching the build progress. I occasionally spend time on the sculling forum and have seen aome of these builds but I genuinely enjoy seeing things built. You and Steve Sanford have both influenced an occasional project that my son and I are working on with a couple of old Sunfish sailboat hulls.

Glad you are here and back to posting.

Thanks for your insight on the Scullduggery as I have the plans for one. My son and I have built a 4' model to consider its' design. I would still like to see pics of yours if you have some around.

Chad A.
 
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Dale~

Great story! I will be following your build with great interest.

QUESTION: It looks to my eye - from your photos - that the line of the keel "hogs" a bit (an inch?) amidships. Is this correct? If so, do you know how it affects performance/handling?

All the best,

SJS
Thanks Steve,
Yes the nose hooks down. It does a couple things. It makes the front end stay down, witch helps greatly in keeping the bow tracking better, and helps keep the side to side motion to a minimum. Also I like my boats to ride with the front of the deck even with the water surface. So the boat just rises out of the water without any shadows.
Dale
 
Thank you for posting this. I was trying to check out the process on the scullers forum but the pics wont load.

Im going to take a lot of notes...

I just found that out. I went back to look at something and the pics would not load. That's one of the reasons that I'm here. I am very proud of this build, and really like to share with folks. Dale
 
Dale-

I look forward to watching the build progress. I occasionally spend time on the sculling forum and have seen aome of these builds but I genuinely enjoy seeing things built. You and Steve Sanford have both influenced an occasional project that my son and I are working on with a couple of old Sunfish sailboat hulls.

Glad you are here and back to posting.

Thanks for your insight on the Scullduggery as I have the plans for one. My son and I have built a 4' model to consider its' design. I would still like to see pics of yours if you have some around.

Chad A.
Chad,
I thought about building A sculldugery I, with a bunch of mods. The one man boat is big enough to handle two people. I know how I could make it work. But it would be drastically different from the waterline up. On the Sunfish, that was a fun project.
 
After setting all the frames in place,and squaring them up, it’s time to start gluing the strips of foam in place. We used 1” DOW foam sheets ripped into 1” strips. Looking back now I would have used 1”x 2” strips instead. That’s what we ended up using on the deck. The 2” strips are twice as fast to apply. We used hot glue, to glue them to the frames, and to each other. It was more important for this to be strong, since we will be making two boats. The de molding is very tough on the mold. If you were only building one boat it wouldn't matter if the mold came apart when de molding. You can see the lines of the boat starting to take shape, with the first strips of foam applied. You might notice the transom is tall, and squared off. This will be trimmed to it’s final shape after the layup.


Dale



 
Just so everyone knows OLD Dale is in the second picture and is much older than I am .



Wait... What... Are you loosing track of time & space?
And I thought your typing finger was broken.......
 
Here is the hull, with all of the foam applied. Where the hull narrows we had to cut the foam in wedges. The foam around the edge, has a uniform 1” vertical edge to form the lower half of the shoebox joint. The joints between the individual pieces of foam do not have to be tight. as long as they are glued to each other securely. Any of the hot glue, that oozes out, should be trimmed off now. The next step is rough sanding with 40 grit paper on a very long, body & fender sander. After sanding and faring the foam, to it’s final shape, the hull will be coated with a layer of drywall mud. More to come..........



 
If you notice the upsweep, in the stern, in this pic. This is one reason, the west coast scull boats are so easy to scull. After you get the boat in motion, the water wants to push upwards, thus pushing on the stern and propelling the boat forward. In a boat similar the sculldugery there is not enough upsweep, witch takes more energy to keep the boat in motion.



 
Dale~

Great work and instruction.

I am wondering - since you plan to mold at least 2 boats off the male mold: Would it be worth it (extra cost of cloth and a gallon of polyester resin) to put a skin of 'glass (4 ounce ?) over the finished drywall compound - then wax the 'glass? (If you'll be done at 2 boats - mold could then go to craigslist)

All the best,

SJS
 
Dale~

Great work and instruction.

I am wondering - since you plan to mold at least 2 boats off the male mold: Would it be worth it (extra cost of cloth and a gallon of polyester resin) to put a skin of 'glass (4 ounce ?) over the finished drywall compound - then wax the 'glass? (If you'll be done at 2 boats - mold could then go to craigslist)

All the best,

SJS

Steve,
Most of us in my area, are limited in good sculling waters. We really like it when someone from another state, buys a local scull boat, and takes it home with them. It's funny, we west coast scullers, will get on a forum and talk sculling, but we never talk hunting spots. Kind of an unwritten rule, because of competition for good spots. So two boats, and that's it. They call us old scullers, zipper lips.
Dale
 
Dale~

Well, then - I expect to see your Sawzall or chainsaw at work in the final episode of your build.....

Regarding the gunner's skill of secrecy - I just instructed a new gunner how to crop hunt photos so that the location cannot be "figured out" by viewers.

All the best,

SJS
 
Dale~

Well, then - I expect to see your Sawzall or chainsaw at work in the final episode of your build.....

Regarding the gunner's skill of secrecy - I just instructed a new gunner how to crop hunt photos so that the location cannot be "figured out" by viewers.

All the best,

SJS


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you do realize that many new digital cameras tag pictures with location information, I turned the GPS off on mine, but not everyone knows it is there
 
Exactly-we have to be especially careful out here because mountain ranges and peaks can be a dead giveaway. Thank goodness for photo cropping!
 
carrying on.......... After faring the foam, it’s keel time. We took two 1 x 6 pine boards. We then scribed, and cut them to fit the contours of the hull. we then splayed out the bottom to give an angle to the keel. This will make de molding possible. We then, glued it in place. We used polyurethane construction adhesive to glue it down, and make a coved fillet, where it makes contact with the hull. Then we applied about an 1/8” thick coat of drywall mud. After final sanding and faring, we gave it two coats of oil based gloss paint. Getting close to layup time.......

 
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