?? on roofing nailers

Eric,

I haven't stopped to figure it out but that would be my guess also on the pitch. My home is a "plain jane" ranch style with one bump out in the back. Nothing too difficult to deal with. When my girls were little we would all sit on the roof and watch the 4th July fireworks from the roof top.
 
[font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica]well lets just say that is one of the reasons I am doing it myself this time. ( if you get my drift) I can be too fussy for my own good sometimes.

My brother-in-law is a professional landscaper straight to him is +/- 1/2inch, straight to me is +/-.0005
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I knew there was a reason I liked you, Dave!

Just don't pull a Max McGee and fall off the roof.
 
[font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica][font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica] "straight to me is +/-.0005"

You button pushin CNC monkeys are kinda sloppy, aintcha??? Hehehehe

George
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I still can't offer you any advice on nailer brands, but most of the bad roofs I've seen were done with a gun. Not due to the gun, but the rape and run mentallity of the roofers. 22 squares is a good size roof though, big enough that a nail gun might be worth your while in time savings. I've forgotten how many squares my dad's roof was, but it 20 trips to the dump with a 5 yard truck. It had 5 layers on part of it, and get ready... 7 layers on part of it! I swear I could hear the roof going aaah, when I tore it off. Not only was it big, it was very cut up. It's the worst roof I ever had to deal with.
As far as keeping your reveal running right, it's mostly attention to detail, which it sounds like you already have. I start by snapping a line for my first course, and gauging off that course with the gauge on the roofers hammer. Most people run the first course upside down, but it's better to cut the tabs off for the first course, so the course that goes on top of these will seal to the tar on the top side of the single. Most folks also go with a half lap back from the tab below, and that works ok. The roofer that taught me, used the gauge on the shingle, and cut back that far. Doing it that way, the slots in the tabs don't repeat for seven courses. If you're right handed, cut off the left side of the shingle, and work from left to right as you're looking at the roof. I'm left handed, so I roof backwards. So I'd usually start my courses by cutting all my starters for 7 courses, and haul the cut offs to the far end of the roof where they'd get used up as I finish the courses. Then I scatter groups of 7 shingles about a shingle length apart across the roof. Nail the 7 starters on, park my but at the starters, nail the last tab on the shingle already laid, but the next one to it, gauge off the one below at the 2nd slot, nail it there, nail the first tab, and nail the closest end, shift my butt slightly up the roof, grab the 2nd shingle off the bunch of 7, repeat ad nausium. When you reach the end, those left ends you cut off will butt factory cut to factory cut, and trim the waste off the overhang. If you're still running straight at the top of the seven courses, start another 7, if off, snap a new line, measuring off the bottom of the roof.
Use 2 nails at each slot if you're in a high wind area, and peel off the cellophane looking stuff off the back side too. Most areas, roofs stay on fine without doing that. Oh yeah, don't use red chalk for snapping lines, unlike blue, it doesn't wash away.
 
Dave just had a new roof put on can't tell you what kind of nail gun they used. The only four I am familiar with are Bostich, Senco, DuoFast, and a Inter fibrous fasten applicator with the standard wood handle. The thing the roofer


said was his most valuble tool was the thing that looks a large paper cutter. The paper they used was new to me. The last time I put on a roof I used tar paper. In the valleys they first put down a roll of what I called ice shield. A tar like material. This also went on the edges of the roof. The valley was also had a aluminum flashing before shingleing. The existing roof shingles were 45 years old and were in fairly good shape for that age. The roofer said they don't make shingles that good any more. Be carful on the kind of shingles.There are no deals out there. My neighbor had to replace his after three years. All they gave him on the guarentee was $800 He got ripped.View attachment _IGP5578ee.jpgView attachment _IGP5583E.jpgView attachment _IGP5575e.jpg
 
WELL??

what did you buy and how does the finished product look? Pictures right? where are they???

You had a weekend to finish it, let's see it!!

ok, how about which gun did you buy?
 
Eric,

Materials were delivered just before the rain started. As it figured out material wise, I am right at the break point for the roofing paper in regards to buying another roll. I hope I'm not short by inches. ( boy is somebody going to have a heyday with that statement)

I did end up buying a Bostitch nail gun. I hope to use it and then get a good share of my money back on the used market.

I plan to start the actual roofing process this Friday. Do you need directions to my place? Everyone who shows up receives a free, note I said free nail apron.
 
Dave
You've gotten some great advice especially going with the ice sheet and striking a chalk line but I can't hear the thundering herd headed toward your place with their hammers or nailers so you're on you own and hope the weather holds for you. Joe O was going to fly in pick me up and we'd come over but I don't know how to stay on a roof having to use a cane and that's the best excuse I have.:)
Good luck!
wis boz
 
I have a Porter Cable - works good, done roughly 6 roofs with it so far. Bought it right after the first hurricane we got in 2004 when my uncle's place was tore up. Did 2 roofs that week. Did another 1 a couple weeks later when the next storm hit. After that there were no shingles left in any of the stores.

I put a metal roof on my house last year when it was time...it cost me about $600-$800 more for materials than doing shingles. The house is cooler thanks to the white metal. There is a 1-1/4 inch screw every 9 inches on my roof! Shingles are easier and more forgiving - my house isn't square on either end!

When you set the gun make sure it doesn't push the nail too far into the shingles - it should be flush or slightly dimpled. If it looks like it is dimpled or begining to break/tear thru the surface, reduce the air pressure. This is important as it will cause problems if water gets in there and freezes.

2 people is okay but 3 is ideal. One guy is hauling the shingles around (they were delivered up on your roof?) and the other 2 are whacking & stacking - one puts the shingles down and one nails 'em in. Get your wife up there to do the detail check every 1/2 hour or so.

Once you start, if you make a boo-boo - just keep going and make minor corrections over a longer area instead of tearing up anything you have put down. It will look just fine. Once you get the line of shingles started you just run with it.

Watch the grooves if the Duration is a 3 tab, something tells me it is a structural shingle. My only advice there is to make sure the sheets are staggered. The structural shingles are TOUGH and will last you a while. They also go on easier than 3 tabs.

BTW - I wanted to tell you that my wife is the best roofing partner yet. She's a dinky little 105 pound woman but she works like a mule and we just work well together. (She's got that detailed eye that sees the 1/16th inch difference in things and I make good use of it.) I get twice the work done with her since she works with me and doesn't try to modify things, or do things her own way. Makes a difference - every 5 minutes you spend analyzing things is 5 minutes you lose working.

Advil or Motrin for the back.
 
Took a look on owenscorning.com they look like a nice choice, nice warranty and lots of color choices...

cant wait to see some pictures of progress???
 
Bridget,

See my reply above to your question on shingles. Pictures????? it's only a roof, hehe

I got one side of the garage removed today and starting to put the new sheathing on right now. Well as soon as I'm done with my break.
 
Carefull On Ladders Dave I hear they can be treacherous Hee hee
Especially for people that work on flat floors. :)

 
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