Painting bottom, rub rails. cockpit coaming, and decoy rack

Painting bottom, rub rails. cockpit coaming, and decoy rack

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Richard Lathrop

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Richard Lathrop submitted a new resource:

Painting bottom, rub rails. cockpit coaming, and decoy rack - paint, widgeon, sneakbox, coaming, rub rail, decoy rack

The next step was to install the skeg on the bottom. Following plans, one was fashioned out of white oak. I also decided to add an external strip to protect the keel. After this was completed the bottom of the boat was sanded and given 3 coats of paint.

View attachment 67936

The boat was turned over and work on the cockpit coaming started. I used a template for the bow and stern parts of the cockpit but they turned out to short to match the...
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Steve Sanford said:
Rick~

Great to see you on the home stretch!

A couple of technical questions:

1. What fabric did you use on the decks?

2. What did you bed your quarter-round "shoe molding" in? And, do I discern correctly that they are fastened with screws?

All the best,

SJS
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Steve,

The deck was fiberglassed with 6oz cloth and 3 coats of epoxy. Yes, I fastened the shoe molding with screws. I preferred screws over ring shank nails to get the shoe molding to bed against the coaming sides. Trying to nail into position against the coaming sides risked driving the coaming out of the ribs. An assistant holding a body dolly against the coaming may have made nailing possible. The white oak I have has been drying for years so it is not as flexible as I would have liked and I did not feel like dragging out my steam box and go through the exercise of steaming the molding. I especially had issues on the bow and stern with the deck curvature. I may go back after awhile and refasten once the oak has trained into position. I used Dolphonite for my bedding compound. I know it is not your preferred bedding compound but I have 2 cans on hand.

Rick Lathrop
 
Richard Lathrop said:
Steve,

The deck was fiberglassed with 6oz cloth and 3 coats of epoxy. Yes, I fastened the shoe molding with screws. I preferred screws over ring shank nails to get the shoe molding to bed against the coaming sides. Trying to nail into position against the coaming sides risked driving the coaming out of the ribs. An assistant holding a body dolly against the coaming may have made nailing possible. The white oak I have has been drying for years so it is not as flexible as I would have liked and I did not feel like dragging out my steam box and go through the exercise of steaming the molding. I especially had issues on the bow and stern with the deck curvature. I may go back after awhile and refasten once the oak has trained into position. I used Dolphonite for my bedding compound. I know it is not your preferred bedding compound but I have 2 cans on hand.

Rick Lathrop
Click to expand...
Rick~

Actually, I was hoping you would say Dolfinite.

I rely on 3M 5200 when I expect to never remove a piece. As you know, Dolfinite stays somewhat soft and so allows removal when needed. I had similar "shoe moldings" around the cockpit on my wooden gaff sloop. As the decks were painted canvas, I wanted to be able to replace as needed.

If I ever get around to restoring my Dan Kidney & Son gunning skiff, the decks will be either painted canvas duck or Dynel - but the coamings and their moldings will be bedded in Dolfinite.

All the best,

SJS
 
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