Recommendations please? I need a bandsaw blade for decoys.

Charlie S and Titan

Charlie S and Titan

Well-known member
It has been so long since I've bought one I forget what to buy. Anyone have recommendations?

Blade width, tpi, blade config (hook tooth?), stuff like that?

It's mostly for cutting tan cork bodies, cedar or basswood heads. Maybe a pine body or two.

It is a standard length (109" or something like that) blade for a 14" saw with a riser block.

Thanks,
Charlie
 
I like a 3/8 4 tooth hook. 1/4" will let you make tighter cuts but seem to wear out or break too easy. Stay away from Grizzly or Delta blades, had nothing but trouble with those cheap POS's.
 
I agree with Harkers recc of 3/8" and 4 tpi.. I like All Pro blades. The skinny ones I have tried dont work worth a darn.
 
3/8" is the I T blade for most deke work--Olsen makes a pretty good blade---Available at most Ace stores--a simple hint that works--to prolong blade preformance,while it is runnig, hold a candle or some type of wax, like beeswax, to both sides--seems to cut friction considerably!
 
I have a Lennox bi-metal, 3/8", 6 tpi raked bandsaw blade on my Jet saw. It has been a great blade and is still very sharp after a few years of moderate use. They are a little spendy though, but well worth the money in my opinion.

Nate
 
Also, take a fine Arkansas stone and while running make a rounding pass over the back of the blade to knock off the square corners of the blade. It's amazing how well this makes cutting curves and reduce friction.
 
Thanks everyone!

I'm off to find one tomorrow. Hopefully my local hardware store has one of the Olsen, Lennnox or All Pros. If not off to the big city LOL (our "big city" - Burlington - is like a small town most places...)

Great tips too. I'll give them a shot.

Thanks again.

Charlie
 
Charlie, It should be 105" if it's a delta with riser block.....if it's another brand, sorry I don't know the length.

And Lee's tip about the back of the blade sure works. File em down, much easier to use. Good luck and let us know how you did.
 
Duane,

Thanks! It is a low end knockoff (Reliant, which was a store brand of one of the big woodworking store chains) of the delta and it uses the same blades. I'll measure the one on there now to be sure, but if the delta takes a 105" I'm sure this does too.

Charlie
 
Charlie - I have used a Delta 1hp with a riser for years. The only blades I use are a 1/4 inch, hook tooth, 4 teeth per inch. With the Delta 6 inch riser, the blade is 105 inches. I get them from AAA Saw Blades in Chicago, IL. They are reasonable and last.

I make 150-200 decoys per year and only go through 3-4 saw blades per year, and, I really tax my equipment. When I call in my order, give them a credit card, 2-3 days the blades are sitting on my doorstep. They weld the blades right there at the shop and you can custom order any length and any blade... Here is the info...
AAA Saw & Tool Service & Supply Co.
1401-01 Washington Blvd.
Chicago, IL 60607
312-738-4100​

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Pat,

Thank you.

I'd prefer to buy local if I can, but if that fails, I'll call these folks and get a couple on the way.

I have problems with a 1/4" blade wandering too much. Maybe I don't have enough tension on the blade... I go by the guide cast into the saw. Are there any better tips on getting tension right? Like some sort of measure of deflection?

Thanks,
Charlie
 
3 things...

1) Tension is a key. If you're tension isn't right, your blade will most likely wander.

2) Clean the tires on your wheels. Manytimes, through use, you'll get build-up of saw dust in the middle of your tires on your wheels. I use some sand paper to sand it off.

3) Lastly, make sure all your guides are adjusted correctly. Not sure of the guide system on your saw, but on the Delta, there are 3 adjustments on the guide structure itself and one at the top near the tension adjustment. I'd refer to your owners manual for help on this.

Hope this helps Charlie. Pat
 
Pat,

Thank you. That helps a ton. Last time I cleaned the wheels off was several years ago when I changed a blade (I don't use it much...). It was pretty caked on if I remember correctly... I'll also have to look at the tension to see if I can get it right.

Thanks,
Charlie
 
Over tensioned is where most problems occur. On your tensioner, you will see numbers that refer to the width of the blade..these are pretty meaningless but a place to start. I tension mine so it just "Tings". They make little guages that you clamp to the blade and it reads the "stretch" in the blade but I don't know anyone that has one. I take a rag with mineral spirits on it and clean the pitch off the wheels..then some 220 grit and run them so I am rounding the wheels, you wat a high point in the cener of the wheels or you won't be able to adjust tracking. Pop your tensioner block off and clean that too or it will bind on one side giving a false tension..then when you least expect it..sprong..and your blade goes limp and buckles up in your wood. Take the pressure off the blade when done working too or it will stretch and be hard on your wheels.
 
Thanks guys.

Harker, sorry for my ignorance, but what/where is the tensioner block? Is it that square nut that the threaded tensioner rod goes into?

Thanks,
Charlie
 
Charlie,

I'm with Pat on the 1/4" 4tpi hook tooth blade. If you're cutting cork & heads you don't need any wider and it will cut tighter curves. I have an old Delta w/ riser and it takes 105" blades.

I'd highly recommend trying to locate a saw blade shop in your area. They can make up exactly what you want, will re-sharpen, and usually will repair any breaks at the weld for free. They also cost less than the ones in woodworking stores (even the reasonably priced ones). Sorry, but I could never see the point in shelling out $30+ for some of the blades that claim to be "superior" (Timberwolf, etc.)- especially not if your main workload is going to be cork & head stock.
 
Yes, it should have a spring in there too. Bob, I always liked 1/4" too until I started gluing bottom boards on. I always seem to bind it up that way and have a less than plumb cut.
 
Read an article not too long ago that advised using Pam non stick spray for blade lube.
I tried it and it works well. Messy though
 
Thanks everyone. I haven't found a 3/8" 4tpi hook locally. Mostly only 1/4" or 1/2" or not the same tpi/config.

Since I already have a good 1/4", I picked up a 1/2" blade. Once place had 3/8" Lenox, but only in 3 tpi skip or 6 tpi hook. I didn't know any better so I just went with the 4tpi hook 1/2" Olsen since that seemed closest.

I understand that I won't have as good turn radius, so I'll still get a 3/8" - I'm thinking the 1/2" should work okay for bodies and is just good to have around.

I'll try the stone on the back edge and the wax on the blade. I'm a little hesitant about using Pam, I'm sure it works great, but I will get funny looks from my wife if I ask for to use the Pam in the garage...

Thanks again for the great info.

Charlie
 
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