Saved ..... back on the tidal waters

I posted the Madoc in the Seen Elsewhere forum. I was wondering if that became the Old Guide since that mentions being designed by Hereshoff as well.

http://duckboats.net.nmsrv.com/specs/images/oldguide.jpg

Rick
 
Dave~


Of course my old brain had wiped that post from my "memory card"....


In any event, see 2 ways to put oarlocks on a South Bay - and still have flap boards. The actual design would involve careful fitting - to be sure rowing worked as needed.


Alternative 1 - conventional wooden stanchions as on my Sneakbox. These were laminated plywood - thoroughly encapsulated in epoxy - I would use solid Locust or Mahogany if I could. The hole on the side is a scupper to keep the socket ice-free.



23 Stanchion 1.jpg



I tied them into the lines of the thatch rails - and also added spacers so thatch could be put beneath each stanchion:


z11b.jpg



Alternative 2 - traditional pipe stanchions - maybe removable. These are removable - from a 1960s Scooter. they slide down through the deck and rest in a socket in the block.



Skidmore - Oarlock stanchion framing.jpg



I secured them with 3M 5200 on this restoration - because rainwater had found its way in when stored. For the same reason, I found these rubber kitchen stool feet to keep rain and seas out.


Skidmore - Oarlock Stanchion.jpg



As you know, I put pipe stanchions on my first-ever duckboat build - and some others. They serve double duty in securing a light line to a bog spike/marsh stake. I use galvanized pipe, 1/2" inside diameter.



MSF Sneakbox - oarlock stanchion and staub.jpg



If oars are truly used for emergencies only, removable pipe stanchions may be the way to go. I would make some sort of plug - rubber or cork - to keep things dry at other times.



With either approach, the flap boards may need a notch or other modification to the oars have ample clearance when needed.


As always, other thoughts are always welcome.


SJS


 
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