Well folks, the sneakboat dilemma has been solved. I ran across a 14' TDB classic for a price that I could not pass up. I am going to pick it up this weekend and have sent a deposit to hold the boat. The boat needs some general TLC and one area of fiberglass repair. It will be a nice project and a good way to get into a boat that can get us into the salt marsh for a very low initial cost, which makes my wife very happy!
I have never been a fan of the TDB blind setup and how high it sticks up in the low grass of the salt marsh. The plan for this one is first to go through the hull and repair any necessary areas to retain it's structural integrity and get me through the season. Then I am going to build some flapper boards and install some 3/4" nylon strap material for brushing. Plan is to cut milk crates in half and mount boat seats on them to sit in the blind.
Pictures to follow soon!
Noah~
Congratulations! I am sure you will be happy with this vessel. I have hunted from TDB-14s a few times and the TDB-17 scores of times.
Some ideas for you to ponder:
If you will be shooting over the side with 2 gunners, I recommend that the shooting side flapboard be an open framework thatched with bundles of thatch tied every 4 inches or so. I have al;ready shared some photos of the sit-up blind I made for my Sneakbox - to accommodate my Dad.
Here is the framework itself:
And the drawing cropped:
As you plan to sit low, you can make flappers that hinge right from your coaming (but see below). If I owned a TDB-14, I would just make just the uppers shown here - not the lower walls 'twixt the deck and the flappers. As I recall, the TDB cockpit is not a rectangle. So, you would need to fashion an adapter - as I did on this Wrangler - to create a rectangle. The squared-ff shape allows hinged flappers/frames to fold without binding.
BTW: This blind attached/detached very quickly to the original boat with no fasteners. The 4 pins fit into existing sockets - and a cleat in each corner held it tight to the coaming.
Here it is in gunning/hiding mode - but without any thatch, of course!
Here it is with both the side and the flappers turned down - as for handling stool.
On my own boat, I dedicated the port side as the gunning side. Thus, I always snugged the starboard side up against the bog. So, the shooting side had an open framework and the windward side was solid plywood - to keep out both wind and light. Gunners looked through - not over - the shooting frame whilst birds were approaching. (In fact, we often left the shooting side down until we detected birds - then slowly raised it to hide)
On this vessel, I made it reversible - so shooting could be directed either port or starboard. I used rigid plastic sheets (1/8-inch thickness) on this rig - but have used canvas on others. (I was having sewing machine problems at the time.....)
The weather panels/cloths are held in place with Common sense fassteners - so they can be quickly switched from side to side as needed.
For webbing/strapping I recommend polypropylene and not nylon. I have used 1-inch - but have not tried 3/4. I use 1-inch s/s fender washers every 12 inches or so. Hay is lashed on with sisal twine - a square knot on each.
Finally, the other feature I would change if I had a TDB would be access to the forward decoy storage. Too tough to kneel down and peer up into there - and tiresome to put decoys in and out. I would consider access through the foredeck - with either a generous solid hatch or canvas. If I built a hatch, it would be strong enough to stand on - and be hinged along its forward edge. Likewise, a canvas cover would be semi-permanently attached along its forward edge - then held securely to the deck - perhaps with loops of shock cord.
Hope this helps!
SJS