South Bay refurb

B Garman said:
Good find Rossja, How does the paint stick to it? Still deciding to replace or use my old trim also.

Bill, whats is the proper length of trim to start with? How much should you stretch it?

Brian
Click to expand...

1 coat, not well
 
Moving on from edge trim (will return to that at a later date); I drilled out an inspection hole in the front bulkhead. Like the aft bulkhead the wood on the inside was not sealed and water got in somehow. The foam is thoroughly
soaked and moldy and the wood is in pretty rough shape, unable to salvaged. Here we go again, another foam removal and bulkhead replacement. On the upside it all had to come out anyway to install a tow ring on the bottom of bow.

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One thing I also noticed now that I've moved forward inside the boat is some stress cracks. No sign on them on the outside, just inside.

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Good Morning Ross and crew,
Sorry for the later reply, here are pics of the mounted SBDB "Sanford Shelf" in mine. I find that the more space you have, the more you fill it with crap to fumble through when you need it. I advise you to lay in your gunning position and see what your natural reach will be and mount it there. It worked for me. Nice job so far, enjoy.
View attachment SBDB Shelf.jpgView attachment SBDB Shelf2.jpg
 
Thank you for the pictures and advice.

Correction on the edge trim! The one I posted is blue only and nearly impossible to paint. McMaster Carr sent me a sample pack and I ofund an exact match in black, will be ordering today.

Big updates... got deck hardware and tow ring attached. I opted to use 3M 4000 for everything on the boat instead 5200. It has the same sealing ability but is semi permanent. I also got the floor in, 1/2 plywood, I did not curve the entire length of the boards along the hull, just the area at the bow. It fits nicely and under I used 5/8 plywood supports between and against ribs which filled the gap perfectly, secured it all with 15/16 screws. The girlfriend and daughter are in charge of painting, bittersweet chocolate on the inside (she already did floor and wants to whole inside), parkers duck-boat paint matched to original on outside. I will add a shelf too.

My next big project is the trailer, I have to find a way to raise the bunks so the boat isn't hitting the Ubolts along edge. That's what caused the holes in hull.

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"Correction on the edge trim! The one I posted is blue only and nearly impossible to paint. McMaster Carr sent me a sample pack and I found an exact match in black, will be ordering today. "
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Please post the Item number from McMaster Carr.
 
Had to cut the flaps down, 3x was too much. New one's are roughly 10" which is double the original size. Took forever to get the base block figures out using the existing holes through the boat, ended up using same as original style square blocks with slight angle in along hump of hull. Made sure lid fit on and added brackets to hook bungee onto keeping flaps and lid secured during storage and transport.View attachment 20200617_202920.jpg
 
Starting to look good.
I would round off the top of the flap rails.
Are you going with 1 grass rail or 2 per board.
I replaced my rails this year and went with 2. It will allow the grass to set higher then one.
We have short grass in this area.
 
From the latest picture it looks like you are putting the hinge screws into end-grain. Good chance those screws will pull out or split the wood over time, plus it is the weakest when it come to stripping. Screws should always be through the side, not the end. Doesn't look like anything preventing you from doing it the proper way. Just thought I'd point this out. Otherwise looking good.


Eric


Edit: In another picture it looks like you are using carriage through bolts. If that is the case ignore the above about screw pulling out. In general though, fasteners should go through the sides, and not the end. If you look at the original block that is how it was done.
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Eric Patterson said:
From the latest picture it looks like you are putting the hinge screws into end-grain. Good chance those screws will pull out or split the wood over time, plus it is the weakest when it come to stripping. Screws should always be through the side, not the end. Doesn't look like anything preventing you from doing it the proper way. Just thought I'd point this out. Otherwise looking good.


Eric


Edit: In another picture it looks like you are using carriage through bolts. If that is the case ignore the above about screw pulling out. In general though, fasteners should go through the sides, and not the end. If you look at the original block that is how it was done.
[strike][/strike]
Click to expand...

Those blocks fustrated me for days! Using the original holes in the hull and getting them to fit right so the lid sat in place was stupid. In hind sight I could've filled/covered the existing holes and started from scratch (but the cut outs through foam and steel plates were existing)...

Yes, I ended up going into the grain, but they are carriage bolts with a steel plate underneath conforming to the underside of deck with large washers and nuts holding it all together.

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Good morning, Jason~


I know this is after-the-fact, But I thought I'd share - for you and others - a few of the ways I've handled flapper-board chocks on South Bay Duckboats.


Here is one where I retained the factory chocks - but made new flapboards and added a middle chock so the boards will lay level when down. This makes them useful for setting decoys when setting out or picking up stool.



The cleat on the middle chock can be used for securing the boat to a "bog stake" when gunning - or lashing the boards down and securing the cockpit hatch when in transit or storage.



View attachment sm FB 31 installed.JPG





Here are some new chocks that use the original dimensions and mounting holes.


View attachment Flap Boards 03 blocks.JPG



Here is a new set with beveled mounting surfaces - so that the tops are level with the water. I use the beveled cut-offs below decks as backer boards so everything makes up square and tight with the carriage bolts.


View attachment 2 New Blocks.jpg



I used a level to measure the bevel angle.


View attachment 1 Block bevel.jpg



It is critical, too, that the chocks line up so that the flap-board hinges are in alignment with each other (and so do not bind when used).


View attachment 7 Aligning blocks.JPG



The chocks are bedded in 3M 5200 - but 5400 would suffice.


View attachment sm 9 Mounted and sealed.jpg



BTW: A handy feature is to have removable hinge pins - so the the flap-boards can be stored inside the vessel off-season. I fashioned these out of 1/8-inch brass rod - with decoy line "keepers" so they do not get lost or fall overboard.



View attachment Flapboards - pin keeper.jpg



All the best,


SJS



 
Steve Sanford said:
Good morning, Jason~


I know this is after-the-fact, But I thought I'd share - for you and others - a few of the ways I've handled flapper-board chocks on South Bay Duckboats.


Here is one where I retained the factory chocks - but made new flapboards and added a middle chock so the boards will lay level when down. This makes them useful for setting decoys when setting out or picking up stool.



The cleat on the middle chock can be used for securing the boat to a "bog stake" when gunning - or lashing the boards down and securing the cockpit hatch when in transit or storage.









Here are some new chocks that use the original dimensions and mounting holes.






Here is a new set with beveled mounting surfaces - so that the tops are level with the water. I use the beveled cut-offs below decks as backer boards so everything makes up square and tight with the carriage bolts.






I used a level to measure the bevel angle.






It is critical, too, that the chocks line up so that the flap-board hinges are in alignment with each other (and so do not bind when used).






The chocks are bedded in 3M 5200 - but 5400 would suffice.






BTW: A handy feature is to have removable hinge pins - so the the flap-boards can be stored inside the vessel off-season. I fashioned these out of 1/8-inch brass rod - with decoy line "keepers" so they do not get lost or fall overboard.







All the best,


SJS


Click to expand...

I might add that center block.

I did not seal/bed the new blocks, do you forsee it being a problem, should i loosen them up and bed it in 5200 or 4000?
 
Jason~


Yes - definitely seal your chocks - with 5200 or 4200. Any moisture that sneaks beneath will otherwise cause rot over time.


And, the central chocks are both easy to make and quite useful IMO.



All the best,


SJS

 
Boat is painted inside and out, thanks to the girlfriend she loves to paint.
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Got the boat on the trailer, seems to fit fine. Bunks sit just outside the runners (is that what they're called?).

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bow sits just on top stop with chain attached, not sure if I need to modify.

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Motor started first pull, which is great because I bought it without running it first and it's just been sitting, lucky!

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Nice paint job!

I really love these hulls. Jealous!

FYI: I added a second set of bunks to the inside of the "runners" on my trailer. Makes it easier to put it on the trailer correctly in the wind & current and adds support to the hull. My hull is an aluminum semi-v, not sure i needed the extra support but like I noted, makes it a lot easier to line the boat up and keep it lined up when loading.
 
Carl said:
Nice paint job!

I really love these hulls. Jealous!

FYI: I added a second set of bunks to the inside of the "runners" on my trailer. Makes it easier to put it on the trailer correctly in the wind & current and adds support to the hull. My hull is an aluminum semi-v, not sure i needed the extra support but like I noted, makes it a lot easier to line the boat up and keep it lined up when loading.
Click to expand...

Just took it for shake down cruise, the upright guide ons made it easy to trailer. My biggest concern was weight distribution and support for middle of boat with bunks out so far.

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