U-bolt installation for Bow Eye - Your thoughts?

[RM Anderson]

Back when I worked in the Marine Division for 3M, went on more than one customer call who had issues with 5200. I remember one in particular who was trying to biond several layers of marine plywood together using 5200 to make a sturdy transom board. Right after adhering the pieces together, he sealed the whole thing in epoxy and fiberglass. No moisture could get to the 5200 and it didn't cure for a very long time. This was on a multi million dollar fishing yacht. Boat owner wasn't happy, boat builder wasnt happy and we sure as heck werent happy either.

Mark

Unbelievable. Sometimes an individual will attempt to insult me for my fussiness by saying something along the lines of, "Well, this isn't rocket science". Just goes to show that sometimes the people doing the work are clearly NOT rocket scientists!
RM

 

[Steve Sanford]

Dave~

Now I will simply borrow a smaller wrench from my mechanic neighbor!

Stay tuned (still on Long Island....),

SJS

Dave, Rich and Eric J ~

It's always something.....



I borrowed a small torque wrench from my neighbor, however...it has a 1/4-inch drive. The nuts are 9/16" - and require a deep socket. I do not have such a socket that is 1/4-inch. So, I tried my big wrench (3/8-inch drive) - which I finally freed from my tool chest drawers thanks to YouTube. The reading I got was 10 foot-pounds. Does this make sense to you?

I gather, too, that 10-pounds = 120 inch-pounds, correct?

Watching my plywood backer compress very slightly under the wrench, I will take Rich Geminski's advice in the future. I will order some G-10 - as suggested by Eric Johnson - for future use.

All the best,

SJS

 

[Huntindave McCann]

The reading I got was 10 foot-pounds. Does this make sense to you?

I gather, too, that 10-pounds = 120 inch-pounds, correct?

Ding ding ding, winner winner! Right in the correct range for your 5/16 U-bolt.

 

[Steve Sanford]

Thanks, Dave!

I am glad I posted this thread. Lots of useful learning for this Old Dog.

All the best,

SJS

 

[Geoff Pike]

Steve, a valuable post as always! But since you asked for suggestions... I would either double nut, or use ny-lock nuts on the u-bolt. I have an unreasonable fear of something coming loose in an area I cannot easily access however!

 

[Steve Sanford]

Steve, a valuable post as always! But since you asked for suggestions... I would either double nut, or use ny-lock nuts on the u-bolt. I have an unreasonable fear of something coming loose in an area I cannot easily access however!

Geoff~

I have the same fear (borne of experience) of s/s nuts and bolts. They seem to want to rattle themselves loose. So, nyloks are my standard. I had no 5/16 nyloks so put my faith in the 5200 on the threads and between the bottom of the nut and the backing plate.

Also, I will be putting a 4-inch Beckson plate on the foredeck so I can reach this and some deck hardware.

All the best,

SJS

 

[Eric Patterson]

Steve, a valuable post as always! But since you asked for suggestions... I would either double nut, or use ny-lock nuts on the u-bolt. I have an unreasonable fear of something coming loose in an area I cannot easily access however!

Geoff

I think he does have it double nutted. One pair of nuts are on the inside of the hull while the other on the outside. Do you think a pair is needed up against the inside pair? It certainly would be cheap insurance but your suggestion got me thinking. Is the locking power of lock nuts less if there are spacers between the lock nuts and primary nuts? Hmmm....

I have the same U-bolt Steve shows on my Boats and always liked the idea of being able to take up slack from the outside with an open-end wrench. Especially if I accidently rammed the eye into a log and loosened it. So far that's never happened but nice to know I have the option. One other comment. When Jeff Smith built his Brant he used bronze castle nuts with a cotter pins to prevent any loosening in sealed areas that aren't easily accessed. That might be the most robust nut locking method.

 

[Steve Sanford]

Gents~

I almost picked up some 5/16" s/s Nyloks on my trip to the hardware store just now - or 2 more plain 5/16 hex nuts. (Bronze castle nuts would require both a Special Order and a Time Machine, I think....) Regarding the second nuts (I've always felt that the theory of double-nutting was to force one face against the other - I believe - with no real proof - that the nuts need to be contiguous.), I envisioned myself tightening them soon - before I install bulkheads or decking - with an open end and a deep socket. Then I thought about "adjusting" them in the future through a Beckson and with only my "wrong" eye functioning and no room for a second hand. I am taking my chances with the 5200 and the opportunity to tighten further in the future with just a ratchet in one hand.

Maybe I'll rename my enterprise: Fingers Crossed Boatbuilding

All the best,

SJS

 

[Geoff Pike]

Geoff

I think he does have it double nutted. One pair of nuts are on the inside of the hull while the other on the outside. Do you think a pair is needed up against the inside pair? It certainly would be cheap insurance but your suggestion got me thinking. Is the locking power of lock nuts less if there are spacers between the lock nuts and primary nuts? Hmmm....

I have the same U-bolt Steve shows on my Boats and always liked the idea of being able to take up slack from the outside with an open-end wrench. Especially if I accidently rammed the eye into a log and loosened it. So far that's never happened but nice to know I have the option. One other comment. When Jeff Smith built his Brant he used bronze castle nuts with a cotter pins to prevent any loosening in sealed areas that aren't easily accessed. That might be the most robust nut locking method.

Eric, yes I was saying one againt the other on the inner surface. The double nuts locking power shouldn't be affected by the space between the contact surfaces. That would be a matter of torque on the threads and compression of the "spacer". But the butted locking nuts shouldn't contribute.
The ability to tighten the u-bolt from the outside is great, especially as the "spacer" material compresses and takes a set. Bronze castle nuts are a very classy way to go! Another way might be SS lockwire to secure. I'm sure Steve's method of glue on the threads will function just fine however, and it's by far the most expediant method! I have a real talent for overthinking and complicating anything, sometimes to the point of paralysis.

 

[Geoff Pike]

Geoff~

I have the same fear (borne of experience) of s/s nuts and bolts. They seem to want to rattle themselves loose. So, nyloks are my standard. I had no 5/16 nyloks so put my faith in the 5200 on the threads and between the bottom of the nut and the backing plate.

Also, I will be putting a 4-inch Beckson plate on the foredeck so I can reach this and some deck hardware.

All the best,

SJS

Part of my issue Steve is the fact that I always buy at least 2 extra of any nuts washers etc. If I dont, I'm sure to lose at least one! I can justify it by double nutting some fasteners! I would set them aside, but I'd never find them when I needed them!