What's on your WORK BENCH ? - FEBRUARY 2021

Steve Sanford

Steve Sanford

Well-known member
Good morning, All~


More From the Bench of George Williams:


Here's a batch sawn out - in prep before George's impending shoulder surgery....


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Here the tails inserts have been glued in.


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My bench is occupied by an antique tool chest that I am re-furbishing for Susan. And, I just hauled another pre-WW II gunning vessel into the shop for a formal "intake". Here is just a tease or two....



View attachment Intake 08 - Bow weight - 55 lbs.JPG



One more glimpse.


View attachment Intake 15 - Sculling port and plug.JPG



Firewood and Covid-jabs are still the priority 1 right now.


All the best,


SJS

 
Eric Patterson said:
Enough of a glimpse to see a scull boat on the horizon.

Eric
Click to expand...

Yes, at first glance I thought the piece with the handle was the previously mentioned tool box. Then it occurred to me, that's an awfully heavy tool box. By then I had it figured out. [cool]
 
Brad Bortner said:
I wanna see the antique tool box Steve.

Dave, it?s fun to see your style and skills develop.
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I have skills yet to be disclosed. [ninja]

Curiosity killed the cat,,,,,,,,,,,, or in this case totally destroyed an already non-functioning drill.
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The motor inside a Dewalt DCD995 is serious motor. I do not have a way to check the actual RPM's but it sure spins, and spins with authority. Too bad I don't have a pinewood derby car I can drop this bad boy into. arr,arr,arr more power
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[size 4] Wow, Dave.
All your recent bowls are Super (see what I did there?) I really like the natural edge bowl.
Working with a bowl gouge is a skill that has been elusive for me. Things will be going good, then I always seem to get a poor angle on the rest and end up taking a big slash/gash that has to be re-worked with turning tool I have better control of. Wondering if I need to slow down the lathe with that particular tool?
 
First shot is a Wiley Cork plug that I use with gorilla to seal the screw and washer in the body. Found a use for my old Wiley scrap, and it doesn't shrink, like plastic wood.
Those teal must be Chinese! hehehhehhh
 
MLBob Furia said:
Wow, Dave.
All your recent bowls are Super (see what I did there?) I really like the natural edge bowl.
Working with a bowl gouge is a skill that has been elusive for me. Things will be going good, then I always seem to get a poor angle on the rest and end up taking a big slash/gash that has to be re-worked with turning tool I have better control of. Wondering if I need to slow down the lathe with that particular tool?
Click to expand...



Bob,


That natural edge bowl is a small piece from a large (26 inch dia.) Locust burl. This "off cut" from that large burl, was my "finders fee" for clueing in a fellow turner to the burl. He has a much larger lathe but even then, he had to do some trimming before the burl would clear the swing on his lathe. I have that piece (the bowl you referenced) rough turned only and awaiting further drying, before I can finish it.


Working with an actual traditional bowl gouge is new for me. I have similar issues with controlling this tool. I just today turned a shallow 1 3/4 deep by 8 3/8 diameter Walnut bowl using my 5/8 fingernail grind bowl gouge. Which is only the 2nd bowl I have done entirely with this tool.


Previously I have used various shaped carbide tools for my bowl turning. My primary reason for learning to use a traditional bowl gouge is to reduce the tear out I get when using carbide tools. The gouge leaves me with a much better surface finish. Now the task is to learn and master control of the tool. I have played a bit with RPM, as well as tool rest height, opening and/or closing the cutting angle, etc. Alas, not with consistent results, which would allow me to move forward in the learning curve.


Wish I could answer your question but I can not.


This Walnut bowl I turned today, is complete, except for removing the tenon, sanding the bottom and applying a shellac finish.


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With all the machine and hand plane restorations I'm doing this year I built a dedicated parts prep area under the stairway at the shop. My wire wheel, blast cabinet, and associated supplies fit in this area. The blast cabinet was a recent purchase and took a bit of work to get it going but it seems to work quite well now. It's time to get moving on multiple restorations so I can get back to boat projects.


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Eric Patterson said:
Btw, I added a shop made metering valve. I think it steadies the media output.
Click to expand...

No doubt about that. Introducing air into the suction line, should keep the sand suspended and flowing freely.
 
Dave

It kind of works opposite of what you'd think. Or at least what I thought before I tested it. I thought opening the valve would flood me with a steady heavy stream of media, and closing it would shut the media off. I conceptualized it backwards because there is a sucking action in place and not positive pressure. Turns out if I open the valve all the way it sucks air and no media, except occasional spurts. If I close the valve Katy bar the door because I'm getting a ton of media non-stop. If I introduce just a little air I hit the right balance. Kind of satisfying.

Eric

p.s. I took the reducer and bushing and chucked them in the lathe and reamed them out with a carbide tapered reamer. This gives a nice necking transition inside the plumbing fittings instead of hard ridges for the media to hit and go astray.
 
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Eric Patterson said:
Dave

It kind of works opposite of what you'd think. Or at least what I thought before I tested it. I thought opening the valve would flood me with a steady heavy stream of media, and closing it would shut the media off. I conceptualized it backwards because there is a sucking action in place and not positive pressure. Turns out if I open the valve all the way it sucks air and no media, except occasional spurts. If I close the valve Katy bar the door because I'm getting a ton of media non-stop. If I introduce just a little air I hit the right balance. Kind of satisfying.

Eric

p.s. I took the reducer and bushing and chucked them in the lathe and reamed them out with a carbide tapered reamer. This gives a nice necking transition inside the plumbing fittings instead of hard ridges for the media to hit and go astray.
Click to expand...

Eric,
" If I introduce just a little air I hit the right balance" What you describe is what I was thinking, it only take just a little bit of air. (I just didn't take the time to "two finger type" out a full response) [;)] typing is not high on my skill list

Good call on making smooth transitions for the media.
 
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