What's on your Work Bench ? January 2019

RLLigman said:
When you lay-out your rectangle, use option (B) by drilling holes in alternate corners to the long axis of the hole...much less slush and over-all work, if you ice saw is sharp! If you can do the fine work you displayed on the spear tines, I am sure it is! The other nice thing is that the hole is a little cleaner along the edges. How much lead do you attach to weight the spear?
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Yep, that is my plan.

I don't have any additional weight. The steel shaft run the full length of the spear, the wood is only a covering. My spear weighs 6 pounds 11 ounces, seems to be a decent weight based on others I have handled. Some of which were quite a bit lighter (probably too light). I don't expect to need more than a quick nudge to get it started down. For the most part, the weight @6 lb 11 oz should carry it.
 
RLLigman said:
Dave, 6lbs 11 oz. on land, prior immersion...hopefully you are not spearing very deep...
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Well, all I can say is from my research it seems the average weight advertised is around 5 to 6 lbs. I just looked at a spear which claims

"This is for the SERIOUS ice fisherman Fishermen that dont want to miss that Trophy Northern Pike when she sneaks into the hole! This is a LETHAL straight traveling waterdynamic ice fishing spear! Weight is 5 pds.

I claim it to be second to NONE! If you like spearing in deep water like some novice guys do on Winnie Winnibigosh or Lake of the Woods or you might have your favorite hotspot, than this is for you. "

and the price tag on this one is $215.00 Now I do realize this fella is trying to sell spears. However, even on a spearing forum, several fellas chimed in and listed weights from 4.5 lbs to 6.5 lbs as their preferred weights.

I hope to have the opportunity to see just how effective 6 lbs 11 ounces can be. [smile]
 
Well, I added another spearing decoy to the arsenal. This one is carved as a nine inch Sucker minnow pattern. I was attempting a new to me painting technique. Even tho the paint turned out different than what I had envisioned, I'm going with it.

Getting this one to "swim" correctly required some additional weighting near the tail. Been doing my testing in a ice chest, wish I had a bigger, deeper tank available.


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Been very slack the past month, if you follow me on Instagram you will probably notice, mostly been cleaning and reorganizing the shop after letting it get ransacked by trying to finish stuff in a hurry for the craft show and Christmas.

Think I will return to that turkey decoy I started last year and hope it gets finished before April along with finishing up a swan I started a couple months ago.

Have done a couple mini planes which are made out of tongue depressors (large popsicle sticks)
They are both around 4" long. The SR-71 I want to do some fine detailing to at some point
The F-14 tomcat went to my crew lead at work which is a retired navy fella that worked on that bird. It also has a plexiglass canopy

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Happy New Year!

Here's my first decoy of the year before it got a coat of spar last night. It will be getting a keel but I'm going to try a few without bottom boards for a light weight walk in rig.
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NDR and on the stove rather than the work bench, but put the last coat of peroxide/brightener on this year's bigger buck. The barn board under the decoy was picked up from a barn across the road from where I deer hunt, plan to make a plaque for this rack and a couple others that have just been sitting on shelves.


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Mark, out of curiousity, have you thought about hollowing the cork and putting on the bottom board, which should protect the fragile edges. This way, you can avoid a keel and instead use the leather strap or just a screw eye for attaching your line.
A thought, anyway. If you do hollow, you can always use the crumbles with spar to make a slurry for sealing the surface.[smile]
 
george w said:
Mark, out of curiousity, have you thought about hollowing the cork and putting on the bottom board, which should protect the fragile edges. This way, you can avoid a keel and instead use the leather strap or just a screw eye for attaching your line.
A thought, anyway. If you do hollow, you can always use the crumbles with spar to make a slurry for sealing the surface.[smile]
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I had considered hollowing the cork and using a bottom board, and if this doesn't work out I will probably give it a shot. I've read a few posts on here and on the Refuge Forum from carvers who have hunted black cork decoys without bottom boards without problems so thought I would try. Or I could use thinner bottom boards, my last pair used 1x pine.
 
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