What's the best knot?

I hunt tidal areas of the Jersey Coastal and Southern zones.
My decoys are all puddle ducks and a few Goldeneyes.
I use the braided camo line with a bowline to the anchor and a bowline to a swivel on the decoy.
Every once in a while the bowline works loose and a decoy tries to escape, you know how they like to go on adventures, write short stories and become famous.
Anyway, is there a better knot or method and do you use a swivel?
Thanks, KM
 
i do the bow line with a type of secondary double half hitch. but i have yet to find anything full proof with the tides current ice they just seem to loosen up one way or another.
 
I use bowline on all decoy lines. I burn the ends with a grill lighter, also tie a overhand knot on the tag end. Just hit the overhand knot with the flame to set it. Never had one come loose from the knot.
 
Had the same experience once in a while with bowlines. Alll my decoy/anchor knots now are plain old slip knots with an overhand knot on the tag end as a stop - they don't come loose. No swivels for me, just one more thing to mess with.
 
Bowlines and other "sailing knots" are designed to be untied after carrying loads. They don't make the best knots for light synthetic lines. Use fishing knots an other locking knots. The knots I have been using for over a decade for both long lines and to tie individual anchor lines. I've never had one of these knots come loose in service:

View attachment LONGLINE KNOTS.jpg

Scott
 
I use bowlines with twisted tarred nylon on my decoys. After tying each knot I pull the tag end through the twisted strands. Everything stays put, yet is easy to untie when needed.

This won't work as well with untarred braided line. As others have said, I'd either add a half hitch to the bowline or use a different knot.
 
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I still prefer to use the old style tarred line. Using bowlines tied on each end of the line with a simple overhand knot or the end burned I've yet to experience a mysterious unravelling.
 
I use whatever knot of choice and then add a piece of heat shrink tubing over the knot. This does two things, (a) keeps the knot from coming undone (b) sheds weeds very well
 
If I don't use a bowline, I use a noose knot. They are designed not to come undone. The noose works best on the tangle free type stuff. It could be tough to get them loose with braided line.
 
Uni knot works very well for me also. The braided green line I bought from the "Old Guide" back in the 80's, is far superior to any line I have purchased since. The old line is very strong and supple, and knots of all types held much better. In my experience it's the line as much as the knot. Choose well, but we have all chased adrift decoys, it's part of the Fun.

This question is right up there with "What's the best way to sharpen a knife?" Many answers.
 
I think Vince has it right. It is a combination of the line and the knot. I use twisted tarred line with a bowline and half hitch and have had no problems. My buddy uses the braided camo line. What he does, is ties an overhand loop on each end of the line then does what I believe is called a girth hitch. Where you put the loop partially through the hole of your anchor and then take the other end of the line and run it through the loop so it sinches up to the anchor. Probably not the best description and I don't have any fancy picture to illustrate but it works for him. Then you do the same for the decoy end. In your case it the loop would go through the swivel then run the now attached anchor through the loop and sinch it up. If you do this method just make sure to do the anchor first and make the loop big enough on the decoy end so the anchor can fit through it.
 
Terminal Tackle Knot, Pitzen Knot or Greypt Knot are the knots I like to use with tarred line if I am wanting a knot that I literally have to cut-off to re-tie. Same knots I use when tying braided line for fishing as well depending on the size of tackle used. Seat line by wetting before making the knot for lubrication while tightening the knot. Each of these knots have a point when tightening that feel like it finally clicks in place when properly tied. Does not hurt to send a flame across it with tarred line to slightly melt coating. As stated before I literally have to cut the knot off in order to re-tie.

Regards,
Kristan
 
Lots of good suggestions above.

I generally use the climber's version of a bowline, with a "safety knot" on the tag end. This is a double overhand knot with the tag end around one arm of the loop, a few inches below the bowline. This image shows a bowline with a single overhand safety knot. The double is easier to untie.

Some other possibilities, all of which can be untied, though with more difficulty than a bowline: Figure 8 follow through loop (also a climber's knot), two half hitches, taut line hitch. The taut line hitch allows you to slide it to adjust the length of your anchor lines, which is sometimes useful.
 
Y'all are overthinking this.
Simple loop tied into each end of the line. I've never had one come untied.
 
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Bill~

Did you ever see Andy Stewart's approach ? - he put eye-splices in #72 tarred (twisted) nylon. He used a bent paper clip as a fid. I do remember him making some remark about too much time on his hands.....

All the best,

SJS
 
I use a small zip tie on the tag end of a bowline on my long line droppers. Electrical tape or heat shrink would accomplish the same effect.

For my single dropper decoys with smaller diameter decoy line I use a simple overhand knot making a large loop and then feed that loop through the hole in the keel and run the rest of the line through that loop forming a girth hitch. It's easy to remove anchor lines from decoys when they get tangled with this approach.
 
Did you ever see Andy Stewart's approach ? - he put eye-splices in #72 tarred (twisted) nylon. He used a bent paper clip as a fid. I do remember him making some remark about too much time on his hands.....


I did and spliced the lines on my hollow-wood freshwater rig, very neat. Did a lot of splicing before getting before getting married.

:)

Tom
 
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