Workshop Construction

Tony

The builder dug the holes 6' deep. If you recall the lot was built up 3' so he went that far down plus another 3' to hit firm ground. He poured footings about 2 1/2' deep yesterday. Today he'll put some gravel on top of that and then set the posts in concrete. He's using UC4B ("ground contact heavy duty") posts which are highly saturated with preservative. This is industry best practice.

Eric


To add, Morton puts their posts in concrete and have a 50 year guarentee.
 
I found some info on the poles your builder is using. Was just asking because we see alot of rotted poles here after 20yrs. Sounds like after some quick googling its all aboutusing properly treated poles in concrete.
 
Eric - Somewhat unrelated question but how do you insure something like this which is not adjoined to your current property? Does it fall under a rider, seperate homeowners policy number, or some type of insurance similar to a small farm or something? Reason I ask is I like the idea... might do something like that myself if the perfect piece of land becames available (15 yrs from now when kids are out of the house that is, ha).
 
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Kyle

I called my agent and they said they'd add it to my homeowners policy as an "off premises structure". The fee was surprisingly low.

Eric
 
Posts went up today. They are braced in place until Monday when the concrete is poured and slab formed. Bathroom plumbing has been roughed in as well. She looks HUGE from the road.

7-2-a.jpg


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7-2-c.jpg

 
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Look s great but unfortunately everything done from now on will only make it look and feel smaller and smaller and ....... :-( Just the way things are but it will be wonderful when done.

Brad F
 
Eric,
Well my workshop has shrunk greatly since building it! Interested in leasing a corner of yours for duck boat storage? BTW, progress looks great.


-Bill
 
Rain is slowing down progress but they managed to pour the slab and install all the girts. Trusses are on tap for tomorrow.






 
Looks great Eric. I wish you lots of luck with your shop. I am currently getting quotes for a 16x24 monolithic slab to start on mine.

Chad
 
Good idea going with the bookshelf girts. Much easier to insulate/finish. Additional cost up front but worth it IMHO.

Looks like a great space. I'm planning one about half the size of that for next year.
 
Chad

I was quoted $2.25 per square foot for 4" concrete not including site prep or forms. I did add wire mesh and the builder only charged for the material.

Eric
 
RC

You noticed! My builder only charged me for the additional materials so it was a no brainer. Like you said I went this route because it's easier to finish the interior of the building.

Speaking of finishing the interior I haven't figured that out. I was thinking T1-11 with the lines vertical but if I go horizontal it makes for an easier installation job (4' plus 4' plus 4' for 12' high) and each piece of plywood is attached to the post on the left and the right. If I go vertical then I have to crosscut sheets (8' plus 4" for 12" high) and only one side is screwed to a post which doesn't add as much racking strength to the buidling like going horizontal. I think vertical would look better. Hmmmmm.

Eric
 
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i really want to build one of these as a second home. I was in one last week, the guy used low grade pine 1x10 on all interior walls, and polished the slab.
 
If I go vertical then I have to crosscut sheets (8' plus 4" for 12" high) and only one side is screwed to a post which doesn't add as much racking strength to the buidling like going horizontal. I think vertical would look better. Hmmmmm.

Eric,

With the bookshelf girts I don't think racking is something I would be worried about when choosing to finish the interior. Most pole buildings are left unfinished on the inside and use the traditional girt style with metal exterior. With the bookshelf girts AND finished interior you have already increased your resistance to mother nature.
 
Eric~

re interior walls: I went with 1 x 8 shiplap pine - applied horizontally to my studs. I like that I can hang anything anywhere - catching studs only for the really heavy stuff.

All the best,

SJS
 
Steve

Being able to hang things on the wall easily with nails or screws is the reason I'm opting for 5/8" T1-11 walls instead of sheetrock. I love the look of your pine walls so if I could find a source that fits my budget that would be the way to go. I'm looking...
 
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