Which foam core is best coosa board, kerdyn,divinycell?Those "square bumps" are the original Divinycell structural foam put in when the hull was originally fiberglassed using polyester, a chopper gun and a mold. Mark was all about weight, at the expense of durability and strength. Adding a foam core between the existing hull and any additional layers will provide much more rigidity than just adding more layers of glass.
Eric is 100% correct in his advice to NOT use polyester resin, and yes you need to get to bare fiberglass, no paint.
Can't really offer an opinion, you will need to ask others, research, compare, and make your own decision.Which foam core is best coosa board, kerdyn,divinycell?
Dylan~Pictures below, I have just purchased a Zach Taylor widgeon made by the layout boys. I was told that it was a great dual purpose hull. I was told I could get the best advice on this forum. I have a couple questions any info personal input or advice on this boat would be appreciated. I plan to solo when everyone bails on me and then late season layout maybe with my tender and buddies.
The hull should be all fiberglass with NO wood is that correct that’s what it seems like to me?
The floor seems to have a little flex to it one half more than the other. To add strength can I just sand the paint off with 80grit and use 2 layers 1708 fiberglass and epoxy resin on underside and inside then hit it with 120 and paint?
how did the top mate to the hull from factory or what should I do. Someone caulked it and it lets water in where they meet. Should I glass it shut or 4200 seal it? Suggestions?
The square hole the lip seems not as strong as I’d like for someone my size 6’1 265lb can I do the same thing with 1708 I’m asking cause I’ve never worked glass much before.
I’d love to find oar mounts someone took them off and what length oars to use or do u guys just kayak row?
I got the boat and trailer for $700 hopefully I did ok. Going to put a 8hp Yamaha on it.
Thank you
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Thanks Steve great ideaDylan~
I have not worked on this vessel. I have, however, stiffened floors on numerous South Bay Duckboats whose floors are notorious for oil-canning. I add additional floors - and reinforce the existing ones. I use PVC "lumber for the frames and 1708 for both the new frames and the existing. I mill the PVC to a trapezoidal section on my table saw:
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Here are both old and new - with the 1708 set in epoxy.
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Having said that, the Divinycell suggestion sounds like a fine fix.
All the best,
SJS
This would be my approach to the crack in the floor/hull.Thanks Eric. Yeah it’s been a mental hurdle for me. Never done large glass work. But I’ve come to the mental conclusion I need to cut it out dry it out and start over. That foam looks like divinycell to me. I’ll begin work and post pics with updates. Idk what “foam pink board” is but I was gonna use divinycell.
Eric I read that thread he has wood stringers and a totally different animal it seemsDylan
If you need some encouragement or ideas take a look at the boat repair made by @ChadW. He was dealing with similar issues and did a really nice job at resolving them. Better than new!
BBSB Rehab Help
Sorry for the confusion, I had a lot of problems posting. See below: looking to rehab the bottom of this old sneakbox. We've already started tearing the horizontal supports out, as they are broken and unrepairable. The previous repair attempts, by previous owners, have failed and we would like...duckboats.net
Wow Dave that diagram is really good. Thank you for taking the time to do that. But that “crack” is what I grinder out where it was really flexing. It seems like the tin canning I’m getting is from the play between foam board and the hull.This would be my approach to the crack in the floor/hull.
He tore out all the bad, got to a strong base and then rebuilt from the ground up. Same approach I'd take with your situation.Eric I read that thread he has wood stringers and a totally different animal it seems