2025 Devlin Snow Goose Thread

[tod osier]

Got my scarfing joints done today. Was a little aggressive with my planer and chipped some edges, but the sheets were 8'3" long so I had a bit to play with and was able to recover.

View attachment 64519

That looks like fun. The gluing and clamping is a bit of a pain since it is hard to see everything (top and bottom) to get it lined up and it is easy to have a mess going on with the raw epoxy that you paint on to saturate the ends before adding the thickened epoxy. I had all of it slopped all over (raw and thickened) and squeezing out. To do a job like that, I learned to wet the material with raw epoxy and then wipe off the excess off after it sits a bit before adding the thickened stuff so you don't have all that loose raw epoxy running around. I was averse to putting holes in the panels too, to do it now I'd put a piece of 2X under (with visqueen ) and drive a bunch of screws through the works rather than trying to stack weight on the joint.

The best part is after you cut the hull panels you will have a bunch of 1/2-1" wide test strips left over to test the quality of your work.

 

[HenryHawthorne]

That looks like fun. The gluing and clamping is a bit of a pain since it is hard to see everything (top and bottom) to get it lined up and it is easy to have a mess going on with the raw epoxy that you paint on to saturate the ends before adding the thickened epoxy. I had all of it slopped all over (raw and thickened) and squeezing out. To do a job like that, I learned to wet the material with raw epoxy and then wipe off the excess off after it sits a bit before adding the thickened stuff so you don't have all that loose raw epoxy running around. I was averse to putting holes in the panels too, to do it now I'd put a piece of 2X under (with visqueen ) and drive a bunch of screws through the works rather than trying to stack weight on the joint.

The best part is after you cut the hull panels you will have a bunch of 1/2-1" wide test strips left over to test the quality of your work.

I've been telling myself cutting bulkheads is next, but think I'm just trying to delay the glue-up. I suspect I'll bond these pieces today. Will report back (if I'm not personally epoxied to the floor).

 

[RM Anderson]

Henry,
One trick I used was to do the glue--up on full size sheets of pink insulation with visqueen or packaging tape at the joint. This provided three things: a relatively straight edge to align the plywood, insulation from the cold floor and a place to cut out the panels without hitting the floor with the skill saw. Unless you have access to about 25 bags of lead shot, Tod's idea is a good one! I used a variation of that when I laminated my bulkheads by using pre-drilled nails through both sheets to locate the pieces precisely and to eliminate sliding when adding weight.
Definitely check your work with a chalk line before you walk away. Even a slight alignment error will cause issues later on.
Richard

 

[RM Anderson]

By the way, Tod's suggestion for wiping away raw epoxy is great advice, especially on fillets. Richard

 

[HenryHawthorne]

Well 4 pieces of 4x8 are now 2 pieces of 4x16. Did the work on the floor, on top of a piece of 3/4" ply I had. Laid 2 pieces out, screwed one down to the base ply, got the other lined up just right and marked the edges. Flipped and "primed", then added thickened epoxy. Flipped again, returned to my marks, and screwed the 2nd piece to the base ply. Repeated in top with the next 2 pieces. Then added a scrap 12" strip of 3/4 mdf along the top of the joints and screwed it down and to the base ply along the joint. Vizqueen between each layer. Will see in a couple days how it turns out.

 

[Carl]

Next step is lofting, correct?

 

[HenryHawthorne]

Next step is lofting, correct?

Will get going on bulkeads later this week, and once I have those cut, edges primed, and centered and squared up on my strongback, I'll loft the panels. A few days of curing should be good for them.

 

[HenryHawthorne]

Just finished cutting my wire pieces. What did the rest of you do with the leftover .24 miles of electric fencing wire?

 

[tod osier]

Just finished cutting my wire pieces. What did the rest of you do with the leftover .24 miles of electric fencing wire?

buy a cow.

 

[tod osier]

Will get going on bulkeads later this week, and once I have those cut, edges primed, and centered and squared up on my strongback, I'll loft the panels. A few days of curing should be good for them.

I never primed bulkheads ahead of time, how will you do that? prime then quick sand after cure for a mechanical bond?

I don't worry too much about priming on the edge grain, but for sure do when working with something where I want strength on the end grain, both in plywood or dimensional lumber.

 

[Richard Lathrop]

Just finished cutting my wire pieces. What did the rest of you do with the leftover .24 miles of electric fencing wire?

Baling wire is good for hanging parts if you need to paint or varnish both sides.

 

[HenryHawthorne]

I never primed bulkheads ahead of time, how will you do that? prime then quick sand after cure for a mechanical bond?

I don't worry too much about priming on the edge grain, but for sure do when working with something where I want strength on the end grain, both in plywood or dimensional lumber.

Yep, exactly. Prime the edges, then a light sand before adding the hull... though the primary reason for the priming will be encapsulation the wood. I suspect most of the bonding strength will come from the fillets and glass.

 

[Richard Lathrop]

Yep, exactly. Prime the edges, then a light sand before adding the hull... though the primary reason for the priming will be encapsulation the wood. I suspect most of the bonding strength will come from the fillets and glass.

My understanding is that priming also prevents the wood from sucking the epoxy out of your fillets and glass weakening the joint.

 

[tod osier]

My understanding is that priming also prevents the wood from sucking the epoxy out of your fillets and glass weakening the joint.

I'd argue that when you are glassing there is more than plenty of epoxy there. If there is enough to wet the glass, there is way more than plenty to wet the edge grain of the plywood. The end grain of the ply, I can see. In an ideal world everything should be hit with raw epoxy and then fillets and glass before complete cure of the priming to get the best bond. Complete cure usually takes a couple days, so there is time there.

 

[Linhardt]

Here is an answer directly from Wetlander about using on wooden boats.

 

[William Reinicke]

Here is an answer directly from Wetlander about using on wooden boats.

View attachment 64564

Thank you sir. This is really good info, and honestly, I have been hesitant to recommend a few times on this site because of all the wood projects. I know how well it works on aluminum though. So this is fantastic information

 

[RM Anderson]

I've never attempted a chemical bond after the gell stage. Not saying it can't be done, but not willing to chance it either. Perhaps I would be more brave if I had shelled out the extra money for non-blushing epoxy. Richard

 

[HenryHawthorne]

Bulkeads laid out and cut, need a little sanding and finalizing the edges - other than the top edge. I've left that about 1/2" proud of the line in case I need to make any adjustments once flipped.



The scarfed joints on the pieces for the hull and side panels looked good at first inspection. Will clean those up and get to layout sometime next week.

 

[tod osier]

Bulkeads laid out and cutting, need a little sanding and finalizing the edges - other than the top edge. I've left that about 1/2" proud of the line in case I need to make any adjustments once flipped.

View attachment 64568

The scarfed joints on the pieces for the hull and side panels looked good at first inspection. Will clean those up and get to layout sometime next week.

Very pretty work.

 

[HenryHawthorne]

Very pretty work.

thanks