Sounds good, thanks.
2025 Devlin Snow Goose Thread
- Thread starter HenryHawthorne
- Start date
First sheer clamps screwed (but not glued). I left a few clamps just to help the screws, though I suspect there is minimal risk given they're 8" OC. Will get the starboard side done tomorrow, then get on with fairing the bottom and stern.
Some people advise affixing both clamps the same day so as not to distort your hull. Maybe with 3/8" ply it is less of a concern. RM
I'd read that in Devlin's book, at least for right-side up builds. But made a calculated guess that with the stern epoxied in place, all the glass and epoxy on the hull, and other bulkheads underneath, the risk was low. When I epoxy them in later, I'll get that done in a day.
Really not bad. The area under the bow section is tight (squeezing between strongback frames), but aft of that was simple either sitting on the ground or on a rolling stool.Looks good, I bet that was a pain working upside down to put those screws in.
My strongback has proven to be a decent balance of conflicting needs. It's a few inches too tall so I've needed a stool to stand on to reach the keel on the back half of the boat... but any lower and it would be a struggle to work under it.
Henry, Not very high tech, but I attached a screen shot of a fairing recipe I used on my boat. Happy long boarding! RM
Yeah, that is a good point, I really like phenolic microballoons and maple flour. Getting the maple content up makes it easier to move around for me the putty is smoother and pulls out better (and makes it tougher, but harder to sand).
Very few do a fairing job on these boats with a long board. With the flat paint you can pretty much get them "perfect" with a RO or sander/polisher. Shiny paint, sure... but duckboat flat, I don't know that it would be noticable (unless you had something weird going on in a flat part of the hull or just wanted pride in a job well done).
Last edited: