2025 Devlin Snow Goose Thread

Tod

I've lifted outboards off transoms many times with a cherry picker engine hoist. When you go that route you will want to get a lift ring for your outboard motor. Best way I know to remove/replace an outboard on a transom. Ebay or Amazon has them.
Sounds good, thanks.
 
Some people advise affixing both clamps the same day so as not to distort your hull. Maybe with 3/8" ply it is less of a concern. RM
 
Some people advise affixing both clamps the same day so as not to distort your hull. Maybe with 3/8" ply it is less of a concern. RM
I'd read that in Devlin's book, at least for right-side up builds. But made a calculated guess that with the stern epoxied in place, all the glass and epoxy on the hull, and other bulkheads underneath, the risk was low. When I epoxy them in later, I'll get that done in a day.
 
Looks good, I bet that was a pain working upside down to put those screws in. :)
Really not bad. The area under the bow section is tight (squeezing between strongback frames), but aft of that was simple either sitting on the ground or on a rolling stool.

My strongback has proven to be a decent balance of conflicting needs. It's a few inches too tall so I've needed a stool to stand on to reach the keel on the back half of the boat... but any lower and it would be a struggle to work under it.
 
Henry, Not very high tech, but I attached a screen shot of a fairing recipe I used on my boat. Happy long boarding! RM
View attachment 66523View attachment 66524

Yeah, that is a good point, I really like phenolic microballoons and maple flour. Getting the maple content up makes it easier to move around for me the putty is smoother and pulls out better (and makes it tougher, but harder to sand).

Very few do a fairing job on these boats with a long board. With the flat paint you can pretty much get them "perfect" with a RO or sander/polisher. Shiny paint, sure... but duckboat flat, I don't know that it would be noticable (unless you had something weird going on in a flat part of the hull or just wanted pride in a job well done).
 
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Thanks Tod. I know the inside and deck will be slow work, too... but have to admit I'm ready to see a different side of this boat.

It's all good, fun to get some paint on it. I'd cut those outer strakes a little shorter, they may catch decoy lines. :) One thing about a flat bow transom that I never liked is that they tend to push a decoy along when you run into them, rather than going down one side, but a fairly small thing.
 
Got my aluminum runners drilled and dry fit. Then off they'll come for epoxying the holes in the hardwood
Henry,
A veterinarian syringe sans needle (heat the needle portion until it pulls free with pliers) will fit a #8 screw shank perfectly and avoids the troublesome air bubble that prevents epoxy from reaching the bottom of the screw hole. I've also had good success by thinning the epoxy 5-10% for screw holes as any remaining bubble rises to the surface more readily. RM
 
Henry,
A veterinarian syringe sans needle (heat the needle portion until it pulls free with pliers) will fit a #8 screw shank perfectly and avoids the troublesome air bubble that prevents epoxy from reaching the bottom of the screw hole. I've also had good success by thinning the epoxy 5-10% for screw holes as any remaining bubble rises to the surface more readily. RM
Thanks. I've been pondering this evening whether to drill oversize, fill, and redrill. That's probably what I'll do, won't add but a few minutes drilling, and I can fill while seal coating. I'll probably save a good bit of that time lost in not having to worry over injecting through a small syringe into multiple small holes.
 
Not wanting Tod to think there is no-one who will follow his advice, I cut off the wooden decoy catchers. But added some longer aluminum ones capable of grabbing all decoys at once!

Got my aluminum runners drilled and dry fit. Then off they'll come for epoxying the holes in the hardwood and for seal coating the bottom.

View attachment 66811
You might be onto something here..... Cut them off where theyre supposed to be, but then add a hinge that folds up the front of the bow. You can run down the lake with metal straps folded up, set decoys, hunt and then when time to pick up decoys, just fold them down, go run the boat back and forth through the decoys and congregate them between the metal posts. You can just walk to the front of the boat and bag em 1 by 1.
 
You might be onto something here..... Cut them off where theyre supposed to be, but then add a hinge that folds up the front of the bow. You can run down the lake with metal straps folded up, set decoys, hunt and then when time to pick up decoys, just fold them down, go run the boat back and forth through the decoys and congregate them between the metal posts. You can just walk to the front of the boat and bag em 1 by 1.
And when folded up, at the spot they's make darn good stands for some flying mojos!
 
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