Cool Herters Model Goose Duck boat.. sneak box dreaming.
- Thread starter Jim Mandas
- Start date
RM Anderson
Well-known member
Jim,
Your restored canoe is beautiful!
I have not yet been bitten by the restoration bug which is weird because I do enjoy fixing things. Maybe the right boat project hasn't come along yet. There is an old Sunfish sailboat laying in a neighboring yard so you just never know. I am glad you brought up canoes as that will be my project this winter. My plan is to rip the strips sometime this summer and begin in earnest when hunting season is finally over. Looking forward to seeing your project progress.
RM
If that deck isn't in your mind's eye picture of what you want the boat to be when you finish then remove it. See it first, then make it happen.
Jim Mandas
New member
Thank you RM, the canoe was a solid project- the guy never glassed it, and it made it doomed to water damage. It would have been easier to build one from scratch and glass it from the start I think.
As far as the duckboat goes, I'm taking the boat and trailer into my buddies welding shop to have them fit it to the boat, today was getting bunk rails built quick and then a day of motor diagnostics... weird rpm surges at idle. Hunting would be the technical term, Rebuilt carb, new plugs, and a recoil spring is all I've done so far, but new gaskets all around is probably in order too.
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Good morning, Jim~Steve, Eric, and RM; I have looked at this site for years, and always dreamed of building out one of these historic and hyper practical duck boats. Thank you guys, for your time, encouragement and guidance.
While I plan to someday build one from the ground up, I'm going to get to demo today on the Happy Meg. I think I've got a decent handle on how to frame out the bulkheads and the deck now, at least enough to be dangerous. She'll be built out using these great posts as a guide, I am considering pulling the whole factory deck up and redecking the whole boat. If this were your project, bearing in mind the narrower beam, you guys would redeck the whole thing correct? I think that'll make for a better finished product. I live in a town of 400, getting material of any kind is a mission; getting parker duck boat paint and primer here was brutal, but it can be done!
Again, thank you dearly fellas, and stay tuned
-Jim
A few thoughts:
1) As Eric mentioned, dream it first! I always do lots of sketching as I plan - and always with the key measurements: length and width of cockpit; length of stern deck - which relates to the length of the foredeck. Can you add a stern deck and still have a 6-foot cockpit length? Will you shoot over the bow or the stern?
2) As your vessel is already suitably low, I would be tempted to keep the gunwales intact. You could keep the existing deck and just add a stern deck. I would probably add a stern deck about 20 or 24 inches fore-and-aft AND build a motor well. Thus, you can retain the the existing transom - but add lots of safety with a well about 14 wide by 10 inches long by 6 inches deep at the transom. I'd pitch the bottom toward the transom and add a drain that is flush to the bottom so it would not hold nuisance water (or ice!) between hunts.
3) IF you retain the factory decks, adding bulkheads will be considerably more difficult working in an enclosed space. I have done it both ways - open is much easier. Certainly constructing flotation chambers would be much easier with the factory decks gone.
4) IF you decide to replace the decks, do so carefully. I would leave a "lip" all around to which I would fasten new 1/4-inch plywood decks. I am currently working on a vessel (Top Secret for Tuckerton) where I marked a 1-1/2-inch lip all around - then sawed the factory decks to the line (they are headed to the dump this weekend). The remaining lip will be sanded with 60-grit (and wiped with acetone) so the 3M 5200 will adhere nicely when the new decks are attached.
5) I would try to keep/reinstall the original Duraluminum hardware: bow piece, oarlocks, lifting handles. I imagine the bow piece and lifting handles could be re-fastened on any new decks you fashioned. The oarlock sockets would probably be set on new stanchions - high enough off the gunwales so oars clear both new coamings and the water when rowing. I like the bow piece as a lifting handle and for attaching a painter - but I would probably add a s/s U-bolt on the stem for both anchoring and for pulling the vessel up onto your trailer.
6) I, too, live in a small town - with no real boating vendors nearby. So, I order my Parker's paints right from the factory (Wisconsin) - and my 'glassing supplies from U.S. Composites (Florida). I have relied on Hamilton Marine (Maine) and Jamestown Distributors (Rhode Island) for many decades now. Also, I use AC plywood instead of marine because of the lack of dealers nearby. It helps if you can find a lumberyard that carries quality lumber.
All the best,
SJS
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Jim Mandas
New member
Steve, super helpful talking about keeping a lip from the existing aluminum. I took the boat out today for the first time in a long time, keeping all this in mind while I was running it. Pulling the seats and decking the boat are absolutely in order. As it is now, when I throw the motor in reverse it’s wanting to kick water over the transom, I think more weight in front plus the deck is going to make the boat a lot more practical. Thank you fellas and stay tuned!
-Jim
Jim Mandas
New member
Okay fellas,
I am going to try and build out a price list. I do not have a shop where we currently live, but I still have most of my tools and I think I can get it done outside and borrow shop space from a friend for the glue up days. I have seen mention of 3M 5200, I used some of that recently installing a drain plug. Two questions here:
1) As I will be needing epoxy, what do you prefer for epoxy and cloth?
2) Is there concern is the deck weighing more than the hull? I am going thin as possible on the decking for this reason.
3) Have you all had good luck with Cordura 500 for a dodger, or is heavier a better bet? This boat will be stored outside, but I'll store the dodger in the off season.
Thank you guys in advance!
-Jim
I am going to try and build out a price list. I do not have a shop where we currently live, but I still have most of my tools and I think I can get it done outside and borrow shop space from a friend for the glue up days. I have seen mention of 3M 5200, I used some of that recently installing a drain plug. Two questions here:
1) As I will be needing epoxy, what do you prefer for epoxy and cloth?
2) Is there concern is the deck weighing more than the hull? I am going thin as possible on the decking for this reason.
3) Have you all had good luck with Cordura 500 for a dodger, or is heavier a better bet? This boat will be stored outside, but I'll store the dodger in the off season.
Thank you guys in advance!
-Jim
Jim
1) Raka Epoxy. You can get it in kits. You want the 127 thin resin. I like using fast and slow hardeners. You can mix them to get varying cure time. https://raka.com/product/standard-epoxy-kits/
2) I don't think 1/4" plywood sheathed with fiberglass will be that heavy.
3) I'll defer to someone with Cordura 500 experience.
1) Raka Epoxy. You can get it in kits. You want the 127 thin resin. I like using fast and slow hardeners. You can mix them to get varying cure time. https://raka.com/product/standard-epoxy-kits/
2) I don't think 1/4" plywood sheathed with fiberglass will be that heavy.
3) I'll defer to someone with Cordura 500 experience.
RM Anderson
Well-known member
Jim,
Not much help here either. Cordura 1000 was used for my dodger and it works well. It can sometimes be a bear to snap into place but if you wet the fabric it relaxes the fit. My best advice is to match the material to your machine. Cordura 500 is probably the max for light duty home sewing machines.
RM
Jim Mandas
New member
Goodmorning fellas,
Eric- Thank you for info about Raka, I am looking into them now. My only other experience has been with "smooth on" epoxy used to laminate recurve bows. The epoxy is actually more reasonable than I thought! How about weight of cloth?
RM- My friend loves to sew and has an incredibly expensive sewing machine. This thing has a 12" tablet build into it like a car dashboard... I bet it costs as much as my pickup. That being said I doubt its a heavy duty walking foot machine, so I'm hoping that the 500 material will be doable for the machine. I would really prefer a more elaborate, two hoop dodger. She told me to basically "pin it together" with some big running stitches, then she can take over and put some real seams in from there.
I know I'm asking a lot of questions, and I really do appreciate your guys' help and time. Thank You!
-Jim
Eric- Thank you for info about Raka, I am looking into them now. My only other experience has been with "smooth on" epoxy used to laminate recurve bows. The epoxy is actually more reasonable than I thought! How about weight of cloth?
RM- My friend loves to sew and has an incredibly expensive sewing machine. This thing has a 12" tablet build into it like a car dashboard... I bet it costs as much as my pickup. That being said I doubt its a heavy duty walking foot machine, so I'm hoping that the 500 material will be doable for the machine. I would really prefer a more elaborate, two hoop dodger. She told me to basically "pin it together" with some big running stitches, then she can take over and put some real seams in from there.
I know I'm asking a lot of questions, and I really do appreciate your guys' help and time. Thank You!
-Jim
6 ounce woven for sheathing plywood.
I'll second the Raka - I've been using their blush-free hardener.
RM Anderson
Well-known member
Jim,
Sailrite.com has some excellent tutorials on YouTube about making a dodger for your boat. As far as Cordura 500, you may want to collaborate with you lady friend in terms of picking a fabric and correct thread. I chose Cordura for a camouflage pattern but I feel there are probably better options out there for your project. Again, Sailrite is an excellent source of information and material.
PS. Forget pins, use basting tape; much easier!
RM
Sailrite.com has some excellent tutorials on YouTube about making a dodger for your boat. As far as Cordura 500, you may want to collaborate with you lady friend in terms of picking a fabric and correct thread. I chose Cordura for a camouflage pattern but I feel there are probably better options out there for your project. Again, Sailrite is an excellent source of information and material.
PS. Forget pins, use basting tape; much easier!
RM
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Jim Mandas
New member
Eric- 10-4, do you go heavier oz on your bulkheads?
RM- I look forward to owning a sailrite.. I've hand stitched a lot of leather. They are awesome. I'll ask her, I think the 500 was the safest bet without having a walking foot- if its the same material as my eberlestock frame pack, then I think we will be in good shape!
Thank you guys,
-Jim
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RM Anderson
Well-known member
Negative, over.
I don't glass sheath bulkheads. They do get taped.
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Jim~
As RM has done, DuraSkrim plastic is wonderful for making a pattern. The scrim ('glass strands within the plastic) prevent distortion AND provide a grid that helps with achieving symmetry. Well worth the modest cost. I get mine from SailRite.
SailRite also has a very good table that matches common sewing machines to the appropriate needles and threads for various jobs.
All the best,
SJS
RM Anderson
Well-known member
Steve,
Now that is a pro tip if I ever heard of one! Never did it occur to me to use the scrim squares to achieve symmetry although I do believe that I came pretty close. Yes, it is well worth the modest cost. Just out of curiosity, what fabric do you consider ideal for dodgers. Cordura works fine but it is a composition at least 50 years old. Perhaps one of the modern polyester fabrics like Sunbrella would be a better choice? Your thoughts, please.
RM
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
RM~
I used Sunbrella for many years but have recently switched to 1000 denier Cordura. Reasons were color and cost.
Sunbrella no longer makes their Tan - my favorite for many years - so I had to switch to Tresco Birch:
Cordura offers the military standard Coyote (aka Coyote Brown) - which is a good match for Salt Hay (and Parker's March Grass duckboat paint) to my eye:
Cordura - even in 1000 denier - seems significantly easier to handle when sewing.
All the best,
SJS