For your hardware you will want to use scrap 3/4 material to build in backing plates to spread the load out.
I used a two bolt bow eye since I was worried about it spinning and then not being able to tighten it back up once it was sealed in the forward floatation chamber. I installed my bow eye in the bow plate on the nose as shown in the plans for the BBIII. I do not recommend this as it resulted in trailer tie down issues later on. The trailer I bought did not allow for a wide selection of positions of the bow eye and the winch. It took several adjustments of the winch and bow support struts to figure out that the real problem was the location of the bow eye. I recommend installing it down low on the keel. That makes the boat tow cleaner on the water, and presents a better angle for the trailer winch and bow strut for trailering.
My stern handles and cleats are attached using huge bronze screws into doubled up backing plates. In each stern pod I installed a top support stringer under the deck skin just like in the bow section. At the time of my BBIII build (2003) I was pretty heavy and wanted to make sure that the front deck was over built so there is a wide center stringer for supporting the deck and attaching a cleat as called for in the plans. Then I have two narrow side stringers over the forward storage area. All my stringers are made from doubled up 3/8 scrap material left over from the hull sheets, and some are just 3/4 scrap. All hardware is sealed with 3M 5200.
Make sure you cut a drain hole in the forward storage compartment bulkhead where the joint for the keel is. My BBIII plans did not call for this and it is a huge mistake IMO. Hard to fix after the boat is built. I am always having to sponge out water from the storage area.
I used simple ABS pipe fitting floor drain caps to cover up the limber holes in the floor. It keeps most of the muck and all the shell casings out of the bilge. I used a 10 x 12 plastic deck fitting over the stern bilge access hatch. The only issue I have with my bilge is that my floor is not very tall and I can not install a bilge pump as they are all too tall to fit under the floor. I can use a small 12v well pump but I have yet to get that installed.
The center floor support was made out of scrap 3/8 material (about 6 layers just under 2" wide) laminated with epoxy and then hand fitted to the shape of the keel joint.
I installed my floor with a 1/8" gap at the stern to allow for water to quickly drain into the bilge. There is also a gap between the forward bulkhead and the floor to allow for water to enter the bilge. These gaps are mainly for winter storage to prevent water from accumulating on the floor and building up ice, but they also allow for simple drainage when trailering home.
Back in 2003 there were builders commenting on how their knees had come detached from the decks. The consensous was that the connection had too little surface area. I installed scrap 3/4 material as a doubler at the tops of each knee to increase the surface area in contact with the deck material and then made large fillets around those. The bottoms of the knees end up glass taped and filletted in, but the tops don't unless you like taping and glassing upside down.
