Gheenoe repair help.

Troy oliver

New member
I'm new to the community, and I recently bought a gheenoe with some damage and the merc 9.9 don't run. I got out for 600 with a Lil trailer. I'm happy with the purchase. I was just wondering if anyone out there could choose me on what materials I should get and basically what to do in general as this will be my first ever attempt at anything like this. Any thing helps. Thanks ,
Troy from homestead
 

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If your just trying to fill holes someone cut mask back side with a sturdy tape. Gorilla tape possibly . First off sand a good distance out around perimeter . Start laying in saturated mating to build up layers extending first couple out onto sanded perimeter. That seat cut out is your flotation in a Ghenooe. The center seat/live well they removed provides strength to hull bottom & sides. Take a look at unmodified hull and you'll get an idea of design. Center seat /live well is built over a mold then glassed in at sides and bottom to hull. I,ve done a bit of glass repair on my Ghenooe thru the years and used just the available mat and Epoxy resin available in Walmart Automotive section. You could get fancier but really not needed. While your glassing check your center keel on bottom for cracking. Good time to reinforce the length of it as they tend to get a lot of wear there. Another way to fill void for glassing particularly on the large area is insert an appropriated sized section of resin soaked 1/4" plywood as a backer and affix . Then build your mat up on top that overlapping onto sanded area first couple layers. Assuming that's a 13' or is it a 15'? Good little boats in the right place and float on a heavy dew! I,m sure there's more skilled Fiberglass applicators on here then myself so stay tuned you'll surely get other ways of fixing it.
 
If your just trying to fill holes someone cut mask back side with a sturdy tape. Gorilla tape possibly . First off sand a good distance out around perimeter . Start laying in saturated mating to build up layers extending first couple out onto sanded perimeter. That seat cut out is your flotation in a Ghenooe. The center seat/live well they removed provides strength to hull bottom & sides. Take a look at unmodified hull and you'll get an idea of design. Center seat /live well is built over a mold then glassed in at sides and bottom to hull. I,ve done a bit of glass repair on my Ghenooe thru the years and used just the available mat and Epoxy resin available in Walmart Automotive section. You could get fancier but really not needed. While your glassing check your center keel on bottom for cracking. Good time to reinforce the length of it as they tend to get a lot of wear there. Another way to fill void for glassing particularly on the large area is insert an appropriated sized section of resin soaked 1/4" plywood as a backer and affix . Then build your mat up on top that overlapping onto sanded area first couple layers. Assuming that's a 13' or is it a 15'? Good little boats in the right place and float on a heavy dew! I,m sure there's more skilled Fiberglass applicators on here then myself so stay tuned you'll surely get other ways of fixing it.
All good suggestions. i refurbed mine but only had to deal with popped bubbles in gelcoat on hull chines. FYI there is "Gheenoe Owners Group" on Facebook where you may find other examples of fixups and repairs.
 
You are going to need...


and a bunch of stuff from this too


I can't tell if the butchered sections are structural or cosmetic... From the hip my approach would be to epoxy lay-up cloth into rectangular sections, on the bench, of similar thickness to what is missing and let it cure. Then I'd trace the needed shapes onto that, cut them out, and glass them in. But I'm not there to see what is really going on.
 
When your done with your glass work don't go back to blind fasteners for your seat mounts. That is what factory uses but over time they will wear into glass from underside and pull thru against hard weight. My rear seat almost pitched me overboard one cold morning when I lost balance and leaned against it hard to stop fall. I bent a piece of 1/8" thick aluminum rd. sign after that that fits over seat like a saddle . Stainless screwed that to face and rear surface of seat bx. Mounting for my removable seat bracket goes thru aluminum & is stainless 1/4" bolts and loc nuts and bolt ends drop in to old blind nut holes. Can throw my full weight against seat now with no issues.
 
A key starting question is whether you are doing this repair with glass cloth or fiberglass matting. Another is what kind of resin you will use--epoxy, polyester, or maybe other choices. I've only ever worked with glass cloth and epoxy. I'd definitely check with the manufacturer on what kind of resin this was built with. You want to use the same stuff for your patches, if possible.
 
Those are great little boats. Looks like 13 foot gheenoe they are fishing machines. Doing fiberglass work is not too hard but it is a learning curve and it helps to work with someone that has experience. It took me a few years working with someone to get comfortable. If you know someone it makes the learning so much easier. What part of the country are you from?
 
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