Ka-Jo Duck Skiff

Remembered wrong! 12 oz biaxial on the bottom of the Peregrine:

http://www.angelfire.com/ultra/edaskew/peregrine.html


6 oz biaxial with 3.5 oz tightweave on the bottom of the Karas:

http://www.angelfire.com/ultra/edaskew/sneakboat2.html


I can't even edit these websites anymore. Forgot my password.

Ed.
 
Finally made it home and got some more work done on the boat. I put the sheer clamp on. Man, that really makes it look like a boat! I went back to the chine and removed the screws and filled the holes with glue. I have a lot of sanding and fairing to do on the frame. I also started on the keelson and keel shaping. I am in dire need of a draw knife. I tried my grinder out with a sanding disk, but I wasn't comfortable with it.
My next dilemma is finding a good source for marine grade plywood. I want to use Okoume 1088, at the very least I would settle for Meranti 6566, but finding a local source for this wood has proven difficult. All the local lumber yards only have marine fir, I do not want to use fir plywood if at all possible. Do you guys know of anyone that sells marine plywood in the Southwest Louisiana/Southeast Texas area?
As you guys look at the pictures, please give constructive criticism where needed! This is my first time undertaking this type of thing so please don't hesitate.
Britt

View attachment 20140103_113738.jpg
View attachment 20140103_155711.jpg
View attachment 20140103_155719.jpg
 
Britt~

I am wondering about your need for a draw knife. Are you beveling the keelson and stem? You might consider a plane or an electric plane. I've had my DeWalt e-plane for many years - lots of control and still razor sharp carbide blades - because I have successfully avoided metal - but it will go through hardened epoxy, etc.

All the best,

SJS
 
Thank you Steve, I am using a grinder with a sander disk on it now. I found a draw knife and quickly figured out that was more than I bargained for... lol
 
I see that your frame is mostly pine. Using glue and or fasteners, use should coat the entire frame with epoxy to water proof it. The glue will not fail, but the wood will from moisture. You are using good plywood and it most likely out last the frame if you do not keep it from water absorption.

.
 
Hey guys, I am still working on the boat, or at least trying to anyways. This weather is really hampering everything though. Good news is, I got all of the fiberglass tape, 12oz biaxial fabric, 6oz cloth, micro-spheres and epoxy in. The weather has been crazy everywhere, but the idea of getting 2 ice storms in a week along the Gulf coast is really hard to believe!
Right now, I am just sanding and shaping everything to the final shape. I really don't even have much of that left. I removed all the screws and filled the holes up with 3m 5200 (I should have bought stock in that company before taking on this project...lol) Hopefully, I can complete all of the fairing before I go back to work. I would really like to start laying some glass down soon!
I will be looking into paints pretty soon. Any suggestions on what I should use or look for in a paint?
Thanks,
Britt
 
Good morning, Britt~

Progress looks great!

re Sanding grits: I would recommend you start with a 60-grit. I finished off most of my Scooter with 5-inch 60-grit on my orbital - attached to dust collection. You may want to go to 80-grit later on to prep for painting.

I will use 40-grit on a 7" disc polisher for the heavy stuff/high spots but you need to be VERY careful until you develop a really light touch with it.

In any event, be very careful anywhere near your raw plywood veneers.

I, too, welcome thoughts/experience on this topic from others.

All the best,

SJS
 
Steve, thanks for your reply. I am worried about sanding where the wood meets the fiberglass too. I think I will take your advice as well, definitely go with 60 grit and tread very lightly. Hopefully, when I get back home, I will be able to put the cloth on the bottom. I would like to make the bottom as slick as possible... I guess we will see what I think good enough is... lol


Britt
 
I really hate having to learn things the hard way! I noticed that there were several air pockets along the seams of the boat that I had taped. I went back and sanded/ground off the air pockets. After researching, something I should have done first, I found that it is very hard to fiberglass over hard corners... I have spent pretty much all of my work time grinding and rounding edges off so that when I re-tape the seams, hopefully it will go better.


I hope someone learns from my error. I just wasted a lot of time and epoxy! Oh well, gotta learn somehow... lol I am hoping the weather will cooperate before I leave for work again, and allow me the opportunity to re-tape everything. I am really wanting to get the bottom done and go FISHING!!!


Britt
 
Britt~

Sorry you have to backtrack on all that 'glass. I typically round all "corners" - chines, gunwales, transom, etc with a 3/8" round-over bit in my router. These pics are from the Decking gallery of my White-Wing build: http://stevenjaysanford.com/white-wing-2-man-scooter/

Sure enough, the second slide explains that you need to round over the "corners" so the 'glass will stick....

13-Afterrough-trimmingwithajigsawaround-overbitfinishestheedges_zpsbea5ca30.jpg


14-Edgesmustberoundedtoacceptglass_zps75b44b7c.jpg


All the best,

SJS
 
Steve, I enjoyed looking at the site. Loads of useful information on there. I guarantee you one thing, I will not make the same mistake again...lol. Oh well, it is what it is, and if that is the worst mistake that I make, I think I will be doing good.


Britt
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top