Looking for new way to rig decoys

[Mark W]

have used many different methods over the years. Current rig is set up using a modified Texas rig system. It works well for gathering up ducks in the water to just hook them to a carabiner and throw in the boat. Also works well in cold weather as I don't get my hands wet and cold. Problem is, they still get tangled up whether I put them in a bag or leave them loose in the boat.

One method I haven't tried is using the J type of decoy weight with either bungee of rubber at the end. Then I can just wrap the decoy line around the keel and stretch the weight to hook onto the end. Anyone use this method? Thoughts.

I I know it won't be as easy to go out and retrieve decoys and bring them back to the boat. Maybe a loop at the other end to hook to a carabiner or hold in my fingers/hand?

Apprciate the insight.

Mark

 

[Dave Diefenderfer]

Problem is, they still get tangled up whether I put them in a bag or leave them loose in the boat.

Mark, storage method is what really dictates rigging in my experience. Early on, I was using plastic decoys with scoop weights. I would figure 8 wrap them and then the scoop with bungee would secure them. It also beat the hell out of the decoys! I use slotted bags now. When I long-lined I still used slotted bags, but now I mostly single line. Large H stytle weights, and rubberized work gloves for pick up works very well. Though if the tide and ice get into the rig, I still can end up with a mess. Once the season starts, I do not loop off the H weights, I simple wrap them and drop them into the slotted bags. It does take 2 hands to pull them and toss them, but the self deploying feature of a H weight makes tides less frustrating.

 

[roy brewington]

have used many different methods over the years. Current rig is set up using a modified Texas rig system. It works well for gathering up ducks in the water to just hook them to a carabiner and throw in the boat. Also works well in cold weather as I don't get my hands wet and cold. Problem is, they still get tangled up whether I put them in a bag or leave them loose in the boat.

One method I haven't tried is using the J type of decoy weight with either bungee of rubber at the end. Then I can just wrap the decoy line around the keel and stretch the weight to hook onto the end. Anyone use this method? Thoughts.

I I know it won't be as easy to go out and retrieve decoys and bring them back to the boat. Maybe a loop at the other end to hook to a carabiner or hold in my fingers/hand?

Apprciate the insight.

Mark

Problem is, they still get tangled up whether I put them in a bag or leave them loose in the boat.

Mark, storage method is what really dictates rigging in my experience. Early on, I was using plastic decoys with scoop weights. I would figure 8 wrap them and then the scoop with bungee would secure them. It also beat the hell out of the decoys! I use slotted bags now. When I long-lined I still used slotted bags, but now I mostly single line. Large H stytle weights, and rubberized work gloves for pick up works very well. Though if the tide and ice get into the rig, I still can end up with a mess. Once the season starts, I do not loop off the H weights, I simple wrap them and drop them into the slotted bags. It does take 2 hands to pull them and toss them, but the self deploying feature of a H weight makes tides less frustrating.

Were you using egg weights on your texas rigs with a loop on bottom end of line? If your going to texas rig those egg weights that slide up and down line tangle the least . Decoys i,ve Texas rigged I put a loop on both ends and simply run line thru attachment hole on decoy. Loop,s are there so they can be hooked together from either end although I bag mine individually simply because I can,t walk bottom easily where i,m hunting so pickup is done by boat. Bags w/individual slots stop the tangle.

 

[Huntindave McCann]

bag'em

 

[roy brewington]

I do use those j weights w/bungee on some L.L.Bean coastals i ,ve got. Hook the j around the keel for storage but on my 72,s and Restles i use dipped 6 & 8 oz. strap weights dipped in black plasti dip and wrap lines around body then strap weight around neck. The dipped weights don,t tear up paint like plain lead. On plastics same strap weights wrapped around keel. Bagging your decoys does keep them organized and greatly cuts down on paint wear. To stop tail paint wear i,ve cut up G.I. sleeping pad into strips that slide under bag partitions from one end of bag to other. Helps greatly.

 

[Dave Horvath]

I've used the Ace decoy weights, the Avery GHG J weights and both have drawbacks. The surgical tubing on the Ace weights dries out and needs replaced, and the weights were lighter than I wanted. One the brightside they had and extra loop that was nice pull the weight off the keel. The Avery rubber strap always broke on me. I ended up making my own and bought a do-it J weight mold and modified it. I also used 1/4" bungee cord for the stretchy portion of the decoy line, with stainless hog rings and key rings fasten everything. I'll have to get a picture posted when I get home. It's time consuming to make the rigs, and it wasn't really any cheaper than buying the premade systems.

The key with this J weight system is figuring out how much line you need to keep the right tension when you wrap your line around the keel. I found 3 wingspans of the green Tanglefree pvc line worked for me, I also went through and cleaned up all the little depth adjustment slots on the decoy keel out, sometimes with various brands that slot is too small or has flashing that will cut the pvc line. Use of twisted or tarred cord can eliminate this. Some plastic decoys don't have this slot, that creates a different problem all together.

 

[roy brewington]

I keep my j weights with tubing unhooked while in storage until ready to use or place in rotation. It helps some what with breaking. I,ve read where surgical tubing will last much longer but your bungee is a good option.