Nails or screws in Barnegat Bay Sneakboxes

Steve Sanford

Steve Sanford

Well-known member
Good morning, All~

A sweet little Barnegat given to me years ago (2019) by member Josh Schwenger is now in the hands of another member, Lou Ureneck. Lou is a native of the Garden State and grew up with Sneakboxes. He now has two "project boats" that he is restoring for his grandsons.

sm BBSB 45 Side view.JPG

The decks on this vessel - unknown maker (Tuckerton Brain Trust could not land on a maker but all agreed it had been well-built, probably in the 1950s or 60s) - were fastened with nails. They are rusted now but may have been galvanized when driven 70 or so years ago.

sm BBSB 14 Iron nails in deck.JPG

Question 1: Were deck planks fastened mostly with nails or screws in that era?

Question 2: I have advised Lou to fasten the new deck planks with either s/s or bronze screws. Do you agree?

All the best,

SJS
 
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My thinking is to use screws, all pre-drilled and countersunk. I wouldn't want to pound nails on an older boat for fear of cracking a rib, or hitting an old nail hole and getting no bite. I like bronze for the history, but stainless is a fraction of the price and not so likely to get buggered.
 
In the few vintage hulls that I have worked thus far, they were all nailed planking. I have been a real fan of bugle head SS square drive screws for repairs. In many cases I have used them as clamps during glue up. I can pop them back out and have used them over and over. I agree, I would be leary of trying to nail on a vintage hull, where the frames are dry and maybe compromised with previous fastening.
 
Geoff Pike said:
Hey Dave, I'm not familiar with the term "bulge head". Do you have a picture?
Thanks
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Geoff~

I, too, am a fan of bugle head screws. I have always taken the term to mean the concave curve of the head right above the shaft - unlike the angle (roughly 45 degrees) on traditional flathead screws - but like the bell on the military instrument:

Bugle head.jpeg
I imagine it draws the plank just a bit tighter on the final turns.

BTW: I have been very impressed by all the engineering that has gone into the world of screws - cordless drills - and keyless chucks. Lots of time saved since my first builds!

All the best,

SJS
 
Paul F Boundy said:
I just noticed on closer inspection of Steve’s photo the relief of a decoying bird on the decoy rack. Very cool!
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Paul~

That little detail - which nowadays might be called an Easter Egg (?) and which I would call a "flourish" - came with the vessel. One side hung on my shop wall until 2 weekends ago when Lou hauled the rig away (of which I will post soon).

Not sure if it's a Canada or a Brant:

sm F BBSB 08 Stool rack - Goose cutout.JPG

One little bit of Atlantic White Cedar was missing on the starboard side when I got her:

sm G BBSB 31 Goose cutout B.JPG

All the best!

SJS
 
Richard Lathrop said:
I use silicon bronze square drive boatbuilding screws from McFeelys


I have never had much luck with Phillips or slotted screws.

In the video In the Barnegat Tradition you see Sam Hunt using nails to attach planking.
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Richard et al~

Concur. Although a bit more expensive than s/s, Lou should not need many. I imagine he will be replacing just a few deck planks as the hull is perfect as is - and removing the decking will be mostly to gain access to the interior for painting. Frames look good as far as I can see.

Looking forward:

sm BBSB 35 Interior framing fwd.JPG

Aft:

sm BBSB 36 Interior framing aft.JPG

All the best!

SJS
 
Steve- The traditionalist in me would advise use of silicon bronze slotted screws and Brace to fasten them. Nowadays I’d go with a marine grade SS wood screw.

Have you pulled a few fasteners to check exactly what they are and for damage? I’ve seen a lot of damage caused by iron rot.

Best regards- Tom
 
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Tom Whitehurst said:
Steve- The traditionalist in me would advise use of silicon bronze slotted screws and Brace to fasten them. Nowadays I’d go with a marine grade SS wood screw.

Have you pulled a few fasteners to check exactly what they are and for damage? I’ve seen a lot of damage caused by iron rot.

Best regards- Tom
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Tom~

It's the new owner - maybe steward is a better term for these antiquities - who will be doing the work. I have advised him to NOT pull and nails - for fear of damage to the sawn-Cedar frames. Rather, remove the planking with a hole-saw screw extractor or other careful method, then nip or saw off each nail. And, re-fasten with screws and not nails. My question about screws or nails was primarily to satisfy Lou's and my curiosity about the methods used back in the day.

BTW: My first vessel was fastened with slotted galvanized wood screw via a Yankee (ratchet) driver.

All the best,

SJS
 
Steve Sanford said:
Tom~

It's the new owner - maybe steward is a better term for these antiquities - who will be doing the work. I have advised him to NOT pull and nails - for fear of damage to the sawn-Cedar frames. Rather, remove the planking with a hole-saw screw extractor or other careful method, then nip or saw off each nail. And, re-fasten with screws and not nails. My question about screws or nails was primarily to satisfy Lou's and my curiosity about the methods used back in the day.

BTW: My first vessel was fastened with slotted galvanized wood screw via a Yankee (ratchet) driver.

All the best,

SJS
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Steve,

I used a hex bit adapter from Lee Valley Tools and a Yankee screwdriver when installing square drive screws on my sneakbox.

Hex Adapter for Yankee Screwdrivers - Lee Valley Tools

www.leevalley.com www.leevalley.com

Rick Lathrop
 
I think most of the sneakbox builders used nails in that era and before, driven in very slowly like Sam Hunt demonstrated in "The Barnegat Tradition". You modern restorers can and should decide what type of fastener to use today that may be superior. Bob Keeney needs to chime in on this.
 
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