New - Boat build advice

HenryHawthorne said:
Reviewing the pdf version, just the drawings... but including a drawing for a setup using the bulkheads on a jig for use in building upside down.

Also noted the specs call for 1/2" for hull, chines and deck - did you mention you thought yours were 3/8"? I've sent a note to see if the specs changed over time, and also inquiring about using 3/8". I wouldn't mind saving a little weight in wood, particularly if I'm going to beef up the glass schedule at all.
Click to expand...

OK, I didn't get anything but a bound set of blueprints. Good that there is a little bit more info provided now.

I remember hearing that he went to 1/2" on the hull. The original was for sure 3/8" and that is what mine is. The larger boats (Honker) I believe called for 3/8 with a cold molded 1/4" ply, but not sure.

In my guess he went to 1/2" because bottom flex. I can't comment on that because I put sheer to chine to chine to sheer bulkheads in the cockpit area vs the knees that the plans specify. The distance between the knee and the centerline of the hull is a large distance and I'd expect that there could be quite the flex between the knee and the centerline (additionally, I built my strakes much heavier than typical, to support the hull in that area in the other direction). This is what Eric did with his black brant as well.

Adding a lot of glass to 3/8" isn't going to do much for flex because it doesn't offer much strength in that dimension. I, PERSONALLY, would not build that boat with knees and no complete bulkhead. We have seen too many boats where the knees have torn loose, even smaller boats.

1/2" ply would be a PITA, but not impossible. I'm happy with 3/8" with the full bulkheads and heavy oak strakes. I have run with the hatches out of mine so I could see the hull in chop and flex isn't a problem. The building upside down may be a product of the 1/2" being tough to open like a book after stitched.
 
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