No Name Scull Boat Build......update........ We named her the Double Nickel.........

Since you wanted a little lighter of a boat are you going to make version 2 out of carbon fiber? Ill gladly take the original off your hands if you do.

Your thread is awesome i look foward to updates every day. I have never been in a west coast boat but this thread makes me want one very badly.

We will see what gets posted in the classifieds i would love a hayden for my armada.
 
Here are a couple more things we wanted to do before we assemble the boat. First, I wanted to add a bow eye, for a couple reasons. I trailer my scull boats, so the eye will enable me to attach it to the trailer. Also when I beach the boat, the eye will protect the hull from getting all gouged up, scraping on the bottom. The next thing will be runners that will guide the weight up front. The boat is very wide across the front, and trying to push the weight forward, without the guides is very difficult. My weight is 60 lbs. and rounded on the bottom, for less friction, when sliding. To make the guides, I used backer rod. Backer rod is closed cell foam, that is used in construction to fill gaps before a caulking bead is laid down. I split the backer rod down the center, to make a 1/2 round. I’m not sure of the type of material it’s made of, but polyester resin wont eat it. I hot glued it to the hull, then added a few layers of torn glass mat. Now the weight slides with zero problems...... More to come...............


 
Since you wanted a little lighter of a boat are you going to make version 2 out of carbon fiber? Ill gladly take the original off your hands if you do.

Your thread is awesome i look foward to updates every day. I have never been in a west coast boat but this thread makes me want one very badly.

We will see what gets posted in the classifieds i would love a hayden for my armada.

Ya know Chris, I've told my self that this the last boat, quite a few times now. Right now I have five boats. This is the last weekend of our season, so my mind will be wandering soon...........

Do you ever travel to CA ? You can take it for a spin anytime....

Dale
 
Thanks for the offer. I think nikki and i are going to explore washington and oregon next year, we will probably make an appearance in CA.

I am also very jealous of the pacific flyway season length. Good luck
 
This looks amazing!!! Your SKILL-SET makes it look deceptively easy.

Edited to avoid offense!

Thanks Mike!
I wonder what you edited out..........
Dale


Dale,
I edited in your skill set. Worried that it could have been read that what you're doing is easy.

Mike
Hey Mike....... I was just givin you the business..........

I know. I just wanted to make certain. The build is BEAUTIFUL!!!!! Thanks for sharing and all the pics.

Makes me ready to get back to my BBSB refurb I started summer before last. I need a space to work.

Mike
 
For those that are interested, that round foam material is available in many different sizes from taxidermy supply houses...it is used for bird neck material.
 
This next step is to bond the deck to the hull. Unfortunately, for some reason I did not take pictures of the first step. Probably, because we had to work fast, to get it done before it set up. Here is how we did it. First we painted the inside of the hull, and the underside of the deck. We used Lou’s FME paint. I like dead grass green. I use his paint on all my boats. I have had scull boats, painted many different colors. I have killed birds with every color. What I have found, in the places that I scull, the green is the most effective. Also, I have made a camo cover for my boat. I use the cover 90 % of the time........ Next, we laid the deck on the hull, then we temporarily screwed the two together at around the edge, at three foot intervals. Once we were satisfied with the fit, it was time to do the bonding. We took it back apart, and bonded the stern first.We used Dyna-glass waterproof fiberglass filler with fibers, to bond the halves This material is like bondo, when it kicks off, you can no longer work it. So we mixed enough to do the stern only. We applied the material, to the pre-marked areas, where the motor well and deck make contact with the hull. We set the deck in place, clamped the area where the motor well makes contact with the transom. Then quickly remove the excess that oozed out. After that was set up, we set up a set of saw horses, making sure they were nice and level with each other. This way the boat, wont get twisted. We then, flipped the boat over.......... Now, Old Leonard started mixing the Dyna-glass in small batches, and I started at the rear of the boat. As each batch was mixed, I would force the mixture down in the shoe box joint. That way we could, do the entire seam, in one continues operation. When I would come to a temporary screw, I would remove it. The material was setting up behind us, so the screws were no longer necessary. We worked our way around the boat, till we completed the job. As we went around the boat, I would take the excess material, and use it to fare out the transition between the deck and hull. After everything was set up, we sanded, an fared out the seam.......... Next, we flipped the boat over and applied two layers of 1 1/2 oz. chopped glass mat over the joint for additional strength. Now it’s an official boat............ We still have lots of work ahead. Since we used a male mold, we have a ton of sanding and faring........... More to come............





 
You are making this look too easy to build. Keep it up. We need more pics!



Thanks tom,

If there is a specific thing you need a pic of, just let me know. I'll check and see if I have a better pic. If anyone else reading this, needs another pic or angle, just let me know. And I'll check if I, or OLD Leonard has one.

Dale
 
Mainly different angles to help how to do this. More is better.

What is the weight for? I have used a scull boat for most of my younger years and I have never seen that before. Is it to hold down the front?

Ours was made to hold up to 3 people. But it was normally 2. We sculled on our knees.
 
Mainly different angles to help how to do this. More is better.

What is the weight for? I have used a scull boat for most of my younger years and I have never seen that before. Is it to hold down the front?

Ours was made to hold up to 3 people. But it was normally 2. We sculled on our knees.


Tom,

The weight is for a couple things. First, it keeps the bow down, which helps the tracking, and helps stop the side to side, wiggle. If the bow wiggles, the birds wont let you in close. Humboldt scull boats, are the most effective, when they are weighted down, you want to get them as low as possible. Also, when weighted down, they draw better, and are easier to keep in motion. And they are way more stealthy.

Dale
 
Next step, the backrest. In order to get the proper angle, we had to get her wet...... All Humboldt scull boats, don’t have motor wells. So you just, put some sort of pad against the transom and prop your head up, on the transom. So our new boat, with the motor well, will need a backrest. We used a scrap of plywood as a temporary rest. We took turns in the boat, till we were satisfied with the angle. I then, made a mold. I covered it with packing tape. Then a couple coats of pva. I had some 1708 biaxial cloth. So I decided to use that over a layer of 1 1/2 oz. mat. I then, set it in place, added a small fillet. Then a couple layers of torn glass mat over the fillets..... In between waiting for the weekend, to get the boat in the water, and waiting for OLD Lenard to come over, I have been sanding, and sanding, and sanding............... More to come............



 
Man that is low! I really like it, but I would not take it out on the Mississippi River where we hunt. There are days we sculled in 3'+ waves.

On a nice calm day that thing is going to be DEATH to the birds!
 
Man that is low! I really like it, but I would not take it out on the Mississippi River where we hunt. There are days we sculled in 3'+ waves.

On a nice calm day that thing is going to be DEATH to the birds!


Yeah Tom,

We pick our days. If the wind is to high, we don't scull. The boat is surprisingly sea worthy though.

Dale
 
Next step......... Leather for the oar hole..... This here, is OLD Leonards’ idea. Scull boats have many different methods, of padding/quieting/protecting, the contact between the oar, and the transom, or the oar notch. Some, put leather on the oar. Some, put leather on the boat. Some, just use lube of some kind, with no leather at all. I prefer using leather on the oar hole. The drawback to this is, there are screws that penetrate the transom. So when the leather wears out, you have to run the screws in and out of the transom, giving the possibility of water damage to the transom. So what OLD Leonard came up with, is to use stainless steel hanger bolts. First I cut my leather to shape. The leather extends past the inside, of the transom about an inch. The leather does not have to be fastened to the inside. I made a pattern of the completed leather, for the future replacements. Then I put the leather in place, and marked where the holes will be drilled. Then, took the leather out, and drilled the pilot holes to the proper depth. We used 1/4” 20 hanger bolts. I applied 3M 5200 to the treads, and used a toothpick to get sealant deep in the hole. I also, used a stainless washer, that will be permanently glued in place, to help make a water tight seal. I used a jam nut affair, to sink the bolts. After they were fully cured I cut the bolts to the proper length. So now it’s a breeze to change out the leather. Just 6, 1/4” 20 stainless steel nylock nuts, and washers, takes just minutes, without compromising the seal....... The leather will be removed prior to painting..... Now back to sanding.................. More to come......................




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