Restle Coated Decoys Shining like Van Goghs Starry Starry Night
- Thread starter John Ki
- Start date
Last year I worked on my Herter decoys Restle coated using cork dust from tan cork decoys my Son and I carved.
I used Tite Bond III and the cork dust. I liked the way the rough texture gave a good grip, so I did not not sand them.
I then sealed with a U.V. protecting varnish. Painted with Behr paint using Steve Sanfords color schemes.
First 2 hunts had ducks coming in pretty good. Then they started to flare at greater and greater distances.
I thought maybe the new black decoy line may have been tipping them off, so last week I went to change back to a clear
mono-filament line, but first checked with a U.V. light.
Well It wasn't the line but the decoys themselves shining like VanGoghs picture, all of the nice gripping points that had a little bit of paint rubbed off were glowing.I thought it might be the cork checked a piece of cork but found no reflection from the U.V. light. It wound up being the
Varnish. So I am in the process of sanding the gough gripping edges, and coating with another coat of Tite Bond III which has no U.V. reflection when dry and leaves the basic paint scheme visible. Will re-paint using the Steve Sanford color schemes.
I used Tite Bond III and the cork dust. I liked the way the rough texture gave a good grip, so I did not not sand them.
I then sealed with a U.V. protecting varnish. Painted with Behr paint using Steve Sanfords color schemes.
First 2 hunts had ducks coming in pretty good. Then they started to flare at greater and greater distances.
I thought maybe the new black decoy line may have been tipping them off, so last week I went to change back to a clear
mono-filament line, but first checked with a U.V. light.
Well It wasn't the line but the decoys themselves shining like VanGoghs picture, all of the nice gripping points that had a little bit of paint rubbed off were glowing.I thought it might be the cork checked a piece of cork but found no reflection from the U.V. light. It wound up being the
Varnish. So I am in the process of sanding the gough gripping edges, and coating with another coat of Tite Bond III which has no U.V. reflection when dry and leaves the basic paint scheme visible. Will re-paint using the Steve Sanford color schemes.
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Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Good morning, John~
Interesting problem - and neat detective/CSI work!
Just a note - although I seal my cork and wooden birds with Spar Varnish, I then prime them with a flat oil before I apply my latex top coats.
All the best,
SJS
Interesting problem - and neat detective/CSI work!
Just a note - although I seal my cork and wooden birds with Spar Varnish, I then prime them with a flat oil before I apply my latex top coats.
All the best,
SJS
John
I paint my foam decoys with epoxy and then pour grit-cob over them. They have zero shine before putting Ronan/Parker/Rustoleum oils on them, and talk about TOUGH. The grit-o-cob needs no sealer as the epoxy soaks in and makes an armor-like coating which is also very flat. Paint goes over that very nicely.
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I paint my foam decoys with epoxy and then pour grit-cob over them. They have zero shine before putting Ronan/Parker/Rustoleum oils on them, and talk about TOUGH. The grit-o-cob needs no sealer as the epoxy soaks in and makes an armor-like coating which is also very flat. Paint goes over that very nicely.
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zane Every
Well-known member
Eric,
What is Grit-O- Cob? Ground corn cobs? Where do you buy it?
Zane
What is Grit-O- Cob? Ground corn cobs? Where do you buy it?
Zane
https://andersonscob.com/product-list/
Use hog bristle brushes, like chip brushes, since this combo. wears-out good brushes quickly.
Use hog bristle brushes, like chip brushes, since this combo. wears-out good brushes quickly.
I got mine from Anderson's like RL mentioned (thanks for the link RL). I had a 50 pound bag of the fine 2040 grit shipped to me. I did 18 magnum Canada geese and it didn't put a dent in the bag. I loaned it to a friend who has done a hundred Herter's 72s and he says there is a lot left so if you order a bag you might split it with friends or have a lifetime supply. Some people use the very fine 4060 and some mix the two. I also use RAKA epoxy and have for 20 years. Great product, price, and customer service.
Eric, please comment on how your application approach varies: I pour a thick coat over my mastic (epoxy, Titebond III, etc.) and then "tap it in" by repeatedly hitting the workpiece gently to shift the surface layer, which actually improves adhesion of the coating matrix. With tan cork I often have to apply another layer to get the coarse reflective/protective coat I am after. Basically the same approach to flocking with Rustoleum as your base.
Corn cob media blasting is pretty popular up here on log home exteriors and camps, as well as decks. This is what I am using next spring to refinish ours.-27X18' with a gazebo with a stair-step roof on it. I calculated four bags to blast it...
Corn cob media blasting is pretty popular up here on log home exteriors and camps, as well as decks. This is what I am using next spring to refinish ours.-27X18' with a gazebo with a stair-step roof on it. I calculated four bags to blast it...
RL
I Mix a small batch of epoxy and apply a liberal coat over the entire decoy. I hold the decoy by a dowel firmly shoved through the hole the head screw ordinarily occupies. Once coated in epoxy I hold the decoy over a large Rubbermaid tub filled with grit-o-cob and with a solo cup pour the grit-o-cob over the decoy surface. The grit-o-cob that doesn't stick falls right back in the tub. Any grit-o-cob that touches wet epoxy readily sticks. I place the decoy to the side and let it sit while another one is done. Within a few minutes the epoxy has soaked through the layer of grit-o-cob so I do another pour. This time less sticks but it creates a very uniform coat. The epoxy wetted grit-o-cob hardens to a tough armor shell and then I paint right over it. No need for any sealer or primer. The paint really adheres to the coarse surface and has an aesthetically pleasing texture.
Eric
I Mix a small batch of epoxy and apply a liberal coat over the entire decoy. I hold the decoy by a dowel firmly shoved through the hole the head screw ordinarily occupies. Once coated in epoxy I hold the decoy over a large Rubbermaid tub filled with grit-o-cob and with a solo cup pour the grit-o-cob over the decoy surface. The grit-o-cob that doesn't stick falls right back in the tub. Any grit-o-cob that touches wet epoxy readily sticks. I place the decoy to the side and let it sit while another one is done. Within a few minutes the epoxy has soaked through the layer of grit-o-cob so I do another pour. This time less sticks but it creates a very uniform coat. The epoxy wetted grit-o-cob hardens to a tough armor shell and then I paint right over it. No need for any sealer or primer. The paint really adheres to the coarse surface and has an aesthetically pleasing texture.
Eric
Paul Taylor
Active member
Do you prep the foam with latex paint before using epoxy coat over it or is the epoxy user friendly on foam?
I just redid seats in a pirogue using 2" blue foam, glued and carved to replace old seats. I painted over them with Titebond III and latex paint and then used heavy chop strand with polyester fiberglass resin. Foam stayed intact and seats are really strong.
I just redid seats in a pirogue using 2" blue foam, glued and carved to replace old seats. I painted over them with Titebond III and latex paint and then used heavy chop strand with polyester fiberglass resin. Foam stayed intact and seats are really strong.
No need to prep the foam. Epoxy goes on top and won't dissolve or have any adverse effect.
P Taylor, epoxy lacks the styrene that is in standard polyester fiberglass resin. This is the solvent that "melts" most foam...or why you had to create a good barrier prior use. My wife is an asthmatic, epoxy will trigger an attack, but not as marked as polyester resin.
Tom Smedley
Member
Any concern with mice? I've got about 4 dozen Herters 63's I plan on restle coating, painting and maybe even flocking this winter.
I've never had any mice get into my decoys. I suspect by the time the grit-o-cobb soaks up epoxy and then is topcoated with paint there isn't much left for mice that resembles food. Just a hunch.
Tom Smedley
Member
Good to know. I?ve read elsewhere that it has happened, maybe it was prior to paint? What exactly are you using for epoxy? I was going to use Titebond II with sawdust, but can?t find any sawdust that?s not been exposed to the elements (locally anyway).
I used RAKA (raka.com) epoxy.