shell lake mallard queen I.D.

Kip, I dont know if lines were ever taken off over the years. I would bet that the hulls were used one off in fiberglass construction,using the hull as a male mold. I am probably going to take some measurements before she gets put back together.
 

inner stem pulled out in one piece


steambox for the ash stem stock sorry about the junky photo of my work area gotta clean that up



this is the stem bending jig and the wood fresh out of the steambox . I have about a minute of working time before it starts to set


 
Awesome work on this project Bob. I have been looking at a boat locally to restore. Haven't been able to come to terms with the owner. I would love a historic project like this to complete and then be able to hunt out of!
 
Tried to take the lines off her this is my Rube Goldberg device. Wont know till I cut the molds out and fair them with a batton but it might work.


 


These are 6 station molds half a side. I will make 2 of each since the ends are alike . Its pretty crude but it may work and ill have something to go from if I build one from scratch. Bob
 
Kip, to build a wood canvas canoe as you probably know reqires a substantial mold made from wood and covered with steel bands to clinch the tacks.For building one boat its probably not worth the effort . You would probably be better off building a stripper. I would like to build a mold based on this boatand once it gets made I think the boats should come off rather quickly .Thats why I have been taking meauserments on the rebuild as I went along. I would like to get an old mold but I understand there was a fire that destroyed the factory. Stared planking today


 
Hi Bob,
I am familiar with the wood canvas canoe mould ,not that I have built on one yet,(I wish) but I have done a good amount of research , and visited with a local builder who has several moulds. However, I was wondering if you might have seen this article? http://www.stewartriver.com/images/One-offarticle.pdf. It seems like an interesting option for wood canvas construction.

Kip jensen
 
Kip, I saw the link, more than one way to skin a cat. I will give it some thought. Heres a shot of todays work



Had a helper clinch the tacks today and the hull is getting stronger. I had to start here first to stabilize the hull shape and then I can flip her over. The stem replacement came off the jig and after beveling was installed .
 
Planking all done and stems and plank ends epoxied in. I know the purists would call for canvas on the bottom but its going to be glass because of the ice situation it will be used in. Thats a bucking iron on the hull that bends over the tacks as they get driven through the hull. There are a lot of tacks.

 
Bob~

Beautiful workmanship! There's nothing quite like traditional plank on frame. I am really enjoying your sequence of photos - and agree that 'glass is the way to go when there's any chance of ice, esp. the freshwater variety.

Question (certainly not a criticism or a challenge): I'm wondering why you used epoxy and not something like 3M 5200 to set the stem and hood ends of the planks? Since each piece is not fully encapsulated by epoxy, the movement permitted by the adhesive caulk might hold longer. On the other hand, I know the epoxy can penetrate and toughen the cedar for better fastener holding. Your thoughts?

All the best,

SJS
 
I went with the epoxy because of the whole glass encapsulation of the boat. The wood and canvas boats are a fantastic system because the wood breathes and dries. You replace the canvas every 20 years. They were designed to be worked on and parts replaced. In this rebuild I thought of going that way and in that case the 5200 would be the choice because I can take the boat apart down the road if I needed to. If I build one from scratch using these lines, more traditional materials will be used. Bob
 
Bob,

I have been watching your progress on the project. What a labor of love it must be for you. Just wanted to say thankyou for sharing this thread and for keeping a piece of history alive.

Dave
 
I would caution using 5200 and thinking you will take it apart in the future.... perhaps with 4200, but in my experience, the 5200 has a heck of a bond!

I just removed and replaced some chocks on the bow of my BBSB. When I rebuilt the boat, I installed some chocks that I found on-line. Bedded in 5200 to the painted deck. I removed the screws, and then using a 3lb hammer and a 2x4 tried to pop them loose of the deck. When they came loose, it was with the fiberglass cloth below, and some of the planking too! I didn't use a chisel because I didn't want to damage the glass! 5200 is tough stuff!
 
I would caution using 5200 and thinking you will take it apart in the future.... perhaps with 4200, but in my experience, the 5200 has a heck of a bond!

I just removed and replaced some chocks on the bow of my BBSB. When I rebuilt the boat, I installed some chocks that I found on-line. Bedded in 5200 to the painted deck. I removed the screws, and then using a 3lb hammer and a 2x4 tried to pop them loose of the deck. When they came loose, it was with the fiberglass cloth below, and some of the planking too! I didn't use a chisel because I didn't want to damage the glass! 5200 is tough stuff!
Click to expand...


5200 will break the materials being bonded before the bond itself breaks. Most anything bonded with 5200 will be permanent. 4200 would be a better solution for items you may take a part later. Or even go the Fast Cure route which has very similar bonding strength but cures much faster.

I've witnessed 5200 not cure when it was used incorrectly. The material is a moisture cured product - it needs water to cure. The amount in the air is more than enough typically. I've seen this product used to bond transoms that were immediately glassed over. Since the product had very little time to get the moisture, it didn't fully cure when the transom was taken a part years down the road.

Just passing along some info.

Mark W
 
Dave & Bob~

Standard method for removing 5200 - as under hardware - is to heat a putty knife and "melt" the 5200. Nevertheless, I concur with your caution re its strength.

All the best,

SJS
 
The hot knife is what ive done in the past on the 5200. By the way Steve I have built your gunning box and it works well. Nice design.
 
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