TDB Classic remolding time

[Tony H]

Guys the feedback has been fantastic and now is your change to give even more. The 14ft classic molds are garbage and we will be retooling the 14ft classic. We will simple make a new hull and deck mold, refinish and build new molds.

We understand there is an issue with the motor mount and the reach from inside the cockpit to the motor so we welcome your thoughts and idea's now before we get to far into the rebuild.

Please pm me or call if you prefer.

Tony Homer

The fun has begun.

 

[Carl]

Up front I should say that I have never sat in or ran a TDB.
But from what I see of the design, why not mold in a motor well, like on the Devlin hulls?
That would move the motor up and make steering easier.
But would also complicate the mold.
Just a thought.

 

[Dave Sikorski]

How about making the classic stern just like the sea class. If there is a reach problem then make the cockpit extend further back.

-D

 

[Glenn in CT]

Tony, I would consider running the fuel line through the transom rather than over the top of the gunnel.

Wish #2 would be hull runners on the bottom to improve steering at speeds.

-Glenn

 

[tod osier]

If it hasn't happened at some point in the evolution I woudl think that if you could incorporate some modifications to allow the use of a 25 hp on the classic, I think that would be a winner for you.

 

[Tony H]

Tony, I would consider running the fuel line through the transom rather than over the top of the gunnel.

Wish #2 would be hull runners on the bottom to improve steering at speeds.

-Glenn

Glen your wish will come true for #2. But they will be recessed into the hull NOT sticking out. Will provide the same grab for improved handling.

#1 is an easy fix with fittings and makes since as well.

 

[Tony H]

If it hasn't happened at some point in the evolution I woudl think that if you could incorporate some modifications to allow the use of a 25 hp on the classic, I think that would be a winner for you.

The boat will be rated for 25hp. But it will require a beefed up motor mount and we are considering this very seriously. The current thought is a motor mount board with a Triangle support beam attached to the mount and deck of the boat. Bolted through the deck to create the upper strength and support. I cant draw or would show you. LOL

 

[tod osier]

If it hasn't happened at some point in the evolution I woudl think that if you could incorporate some modifications to allow the use of a 25 hp on the classic, I think that would be a winner for you.

The boat will be rated for 25hp. But it will require a beefed up motor mount and we are considering this very seriously. The current thought is a motor mount board with a Triangle support beam attached to the mount and deck of the boat. Bolted through the deck to create the upper strength and support. I cant draw or would show you. LOL

I figgured that was an obvious modification. You will get a lot of guys with older boats bugging you for those pieces.

 

[Tony H]

If it hasn't happened at some point in the evolution I woudl think that if you could incorporate some modifications to allow the use of a 25 hp on the classic, I think that would be a winner for you.

The boat will be rated for 25hp. But it will require a beefed up motor mount and we are considering this very seriously. The current thought is a motor mount board with a Triangle support beam attached to the mount and deck of the boat. Bolted through the deck to create the upper strength and support. I cant draw or would show you. LOL

I figgured that was an obvious modification. You will get a lot of guys with older boats bugging you for those pieces.

I cannot change the rating of a boat we did not build. So even with the proper pieces it wont change there boats ratings. unfortunately.

 

[tod osier]

If it hasn't happened at some point in the evolution I woudl think that if you could incorporate some modifications to allow the use of a 25 hp on the classic, I think that would be a winner for you.

The boat will be rated for 25hp. But it will require a beefed up motor mount and we are considering this very seriously. The current thought is a motor mount board with a Triangle support beam attached to the mount and deck of the boat. Bolted through the deck to create the upper strength and support. I cant draw or would show you. LOL

I figgured that was an obvious modification. You will get a lot of guys with older boats bugging you for those pieces.

I cannot change the rating of a boat we did not build. So even with the proper pieces it wont change there boats ratings. unfortunately.

Of course, but that doesn't mean you won't get lots of requests.

 

[Tony H]

If it hasn't happened at some point in the evolution I woudl think that if you could incorporate some modifications to allow the use of a 25 hp on the classic, I think that would be a winner for you.

The boat will be rated for 25hp. But it will require a beefed up motor mount and we are considering this very seriously. The current thought is a motor mount board with a Triangle support beam attached to the mount and deck of the boat. Bolted through the deck to create the upper strength and support. I cant draw or would show you. LOL

I figgured that was an obvious modification. You will get a lot of guys with older boats bugging you for those pieces.

I cannot change the rating of a boat we did not build. So even with the proper pieces it wont change there boats ratings. unfortunately.

Of course, but that doesn't mean you won't get lots of requests.

Agree'd we are looking at a pourable transom system for this boat and using a 20" mount. This will raise it up and make reach more reasonable. The support bracket is the key to the whole system working. We have to relieve stress off the lower transom for this to work properly. Time will tell. Right now retooling the molds. No Major changes to hull and deck will be made though other than the hull receiving reverse strakes to help with performance.

Any other thought or idea's? We also are planning a completely sealed fiberglass floor system with foam under it as well. And foam on both sides under the shelve as before and possibly adding a second set of shelves to the boat.

The front and rear bulkheads may be molded fiberglass as well built from laminated structural foam. All electrical will be ran through tubing down the side of the boat so access is easy if ever needs attention later.

 

[Brian R]

Tony,

How about extending the current grass rails around the bow and stern. Most guys I know with the boat have rigged their own grass straps with string or bungie.

 

[Tony H]

Tony,

How about extending the current grass rails around the bow and stern. Most guys I know with the boat have rigged their own grass straps with string or bungie.

We can do that no problem. We sell the grass rails now that are all nylon material and can be made to any length.

Which reminds me of another change coming. I always wondered why the grass rails on the classic were not installed on the hull deck joint to provide even mre structural bond and we will be placing the grass rails along that joint just like the 14ft sea class. Length is not a problem we can start at the back and go all the way to the bow if the customer so chooses.

 

[Dave McNeill]

Tony, Would like to see a photo of your current grassing rails?
Thanks,
Dave

 

[Tony H]

Tony, Would like to see a photo of your current grassing rails?
Thanks,
Dave

Here they are on a scull boat.

 

[Capt. John O]

Possibly a wider cockpit or is that too much to ask?

 

[Dave McNeill]

Tony, thanks for the photo.
Are those rails pictured on the sculling boat identical to the replacement rails you
are selling for the classics?

 

[DeWayne Knight]

No Major changes to hull and deck will be made though other than the hull receiving reverse strakes to help with performance.

Can you explain why you are doing "reverse strakes", and how they will help with performance? And on a related note, with as much feedback as you are garnering and as much of Eric's bandwidth as you are burning up promoting your new company and boats, I surely hope a sponsorship check for $500.00 is in the mail to Eric Patterson for Duckboats.net!

 

[Tony H]

Tony, thanks for the photo.
Are those rails pictured on the sculling boat identical to the replacement rails you
are selling for the classics?

Yes they are the same ones.

 

[Tony H]

No Major changes to hull and deck will be made though other than the hull receiving reverse strakes to help with performance.

Can you explain why you are doing "reverse strakes", and how they will help with performance? And on a related note, with as much feedback as you are garnering and as much of Eric's bandwidth as you are burning up promoting your new company and boats, I surely hope a sponsorship check for $500.00 is in the mail to Eric Patterson for Duckboats.net!

Dewayne, the reverse strake will do 2 things. First it will allow the hull to bite the same as a regular strake would. Secondly it wont stick out and cause problems for those guys who hunt tidal conditions and have had to or will have to pull the light boat off a sand bar.

This is a duck boat site and the TDB is a very very popular duck boat, the first Duck Boat I might add, We bought the company and have many followers who want to be kept up to date. And that is what we are doing here and many other sites.