What's on your WORK BENCH ? - MARCH 2001

Steve Sanford

Steve Sanford

Well-known member
All~


As has become customary, I will commence with some recent production From the Bench of George Williams:


He claims to be out of shop space....



View attachment GWilliams - full shop.jpg



Like me, it seems George has a well-developed Shipping & Receiving Dept.


View attachment GWilliams - Mallards bagged up.jpg



A few more that have thus far eluded the bags.


View attachment GWilliams - Spoonbills.jpg



My attention has mostly been on vessels. This new hatch is for an old Sculling Boat. I am currently busy with the fussy job of sanding its topside 'glass (6 oz. set in epoxy) to receive some paint.



View attachment Hatch 12 - primed underside.JPG



This 'glass layup will become a flap board for a modern vessel.


View attachment WB 09 - Glass layup - flap board.JPG



I have also begun progress on some of the scores of gunners. My Broadie-Beak provides air support over my "assembly bench"....


View attachment WB 01 - Silhouettes.JPG



Three bags of Chesapeakes need a variety of treatments. The 3 Drake Mallards will become Drake Black Ducks. They are the standard size. The 4 others are "Superducks" - and will also become Blacks.



View attachment WB 02 - Chesapeakes.JPG





The 3 Drakes got epoxy + Homer Coat (finely ground walnut shells) - on both bodies and heads.



View attachment WB 03 - 3 normal Mallard Drakes coated.JPG



The 4 Super Magnums needed some refinement to the head-chest transition - with thickened epoxy (resin + fairing compound).


View attachment WB 04 - Superducks - neck filler.JPG



After coarse sanding and an acetone wipe they got epoxy + fine sawdust on their heads. This is my typical approach for coating foam birds: fine sawdust on the heads and Homer Coat on the bodies.


View attachment WB 05 - Superducks - coated heads.JPG



Stay tuned!


SJS



 
Rooster, the shovelers were the end of the line, as I fried the rheostat-speed control- on my foot pedal. Darn thing just ran at warp 10. Have ordered a new part, which entailed taking off the foot pedal, and, just in case, did a replacement foot pedal also. I managed to run 54 stool in under three weeks. They are all now sanded and sealed, except for five blacks, that do not need immediate attention. I have a week to paint before the orthopedic surgeon trades my original shoulder-left this time-fir after market parts. Hoping this one goes as well as the right side. It was NOT fun trying to get a 20 ga. SBS to my shoulder. Not a pleasant season.

Hoping to have all back shipshape and Bristol fashion before the trip to Argentina.[whistle][;)]
 
My workbench has been seeing a lot of parts activity. This is going to be the year of machine restorations for me. I have a backlog of six machines and want to get them all done and get back to boat building projects. That's my 2021 workshop goal. A lot of these machines I got from Jeff when he passed away. It was always our plan to move his machines to my shop, sell off the duplicates in favor of the better ones, and get them going again. The first machine, a Powermatic 221 20" planer, is coming along nicely. Can't wait to have it running and the restoration behind me.

The parts on the bench just came out of a hot lye bath followed by a media blasting to remove all the paint. After taping off the machined surfaces they will get primed and painted. The last picture is of the planer, a Powermatic 160 16", I restored about 10 years ago. I will be selling it once the 221 is complete. Hate to see it go but I don't see it getting used much and don't want it idle and taking up room when someone else could enjoy it.

Eric

View attachment Img_3470.jpg

View attachment Img_3473.jpg

View attachment Img_3469.jpg

View attachment Img_3474.jpg
 
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Eric,

Very nice restoration. Are you on the Old Woodworking machines website?

Anyone notice the thread title is March 2001?

Rick
 
Paul, that is a good looking harlequin. What kinds of paints did you use? Did you seal it with something?
 
Richard Lathrop said:
Eric,

Very nice restoration. Are you on the Old Woodworking machines website?

Anyone notice the thread title is March 2001?

Rick
Click to expand...

I am. Have been for years. Are you? 2001 slipped past my eye.

Eric
 
Thank you Dani.

I painted with the Traditions line of acrylics and used their glazing medium to seal. Applied the sealer @ 100 percent. Next time I will dillute to reduce sheen.

Paul
 
Steve

In a nutshell, I try and preserve the finish as original. For looks and for function.

My method of rust removal depends on the underlying metal and what I'm trying to accomplish. If I'm painting over the metal and do not care about discoloration caused by acid removal then phosphoric (strong) or acetic (weak) acid based removers are fine. If I want to avoid discoloration caused by strong acids on a surface that shows, for example a sander or drill press cast iron top, I use mechanical means such as a razor blade scraper or wire wheel, or a series of ever increasing grit abrasives, up to 2000 grit, to restore a factory shine. If it is a machined surface that interfaces with another part I stick to wire wheels so as not to remove any material. I also bead blast to remove paint and rust in hard to reach areas and on small parts. I've found glass bead blasting on machined mating surfaces doesn't remove material, unlike silica blasting, and they can be hit with the wire wheel to restore the original surface and its properties. A hot dip in a strong lye solution can remove a lot of paint with little effort and I like that. It just depends on the situation.

Hope this answers the question.

Eric
 
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Eric

I'm trying to resist looking and commenting cuz I know it'll lead me down a new rabbit hole. One of your previous "old machinery restoration" posts got me started to the point of reproducing the original badges on 1940's era machinery. Luckily, I pulled up before I crash landed and was consumed with a new hobby. I must say I admire your abilities. Ever have any leftover parts? Lol.
 
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Thanks, Eric~


I've used most of these approaches one time or another.


One more question: Do you use wax or any other protection on the table tops, e.g., drill press, band saw, table saw? I have used auto waxes but always avoided silicons so I would not contaminate any lumber.


Your thoughts?


SJS

 
All~


I don't think I ever posted when I finished this old tool chest - and brought it inside from my shop.


View attachment A Chest 09 - FULL within living room.jpg



I cannot find any "before" photos. It had been painted a turquoisey-blue with black accents. And, the edges of the lid and base had been banded with iron/steel.


View attachment C Chest 04 - FULL from front.JPG



The consensus from my friends hereabout is that these chests were most likely not factory-made. Rather, each carpenter built his own - and displayed his craftsmanship thereby. As an example, each dovetail looks perfect to my eye.



View attachment B Chest 10 - south end handle and dovetails.JPG





Although there were stepped chocks on either end inside, any tool trays were long gone when I got this a year or so ago. I added the screw eyes and some decoy line to hold the lid upright when opened.



View attachment G Chest 02 - Tray ledges.JPG



Several hexes were inscribed inside the lid.


View attachment D Chest 06 - Open lid LEVEL.JPG



After stripping - chemical, scraper, sandpaper - I de-rusted the hardware, then finished everything with Tung Oil. The wood got about 5 coats, the hardware just 2 coats.



View attachment F Chest 01 - Hexes.JPG



If you know anything about these old tool chests, please let me know. A good friend has one very similar - but in almost mint original condition. We are happy to have it in our living room.


All the best,


SJS



 
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