Building table and setting up molds

Building table and setting up molds

After building the transom and the bow piece I set about cutting the molds. The plans call for 1" Pine molds. I used 1" pine boards 7" wide from Home Depot. The molds were cut as indicated on the plans.

I deviated from the setup plans by building a rolling table. I only added a top for 10'. This was because the bow piece sits below the deck line. This will allow me to roll the boat outside of the shop for sanding and I am able to move it around as needed. I installed a set of locking casters to prevent the table moving while installing the side planks. I painted the top with white primer sealer to give a white surface to make layout lines easier to see. I then drew a center line and the lines for each mold station and each frame on the table.

I set the transom so the deck line was level with the table top as indicated on the molds drawing.

Using 2x4 blocks I then set the molds at each station. The bow piece was installed as the plans called for.
The molds were installed using screws to allow them to remain in the boat when the boat is flipped. The text of the build does not indicate attaching the molds to the sides, I am still debating if I will do that to prevent the boat loosing shape when it is turned over later in the build.

The text calls for a stringer at the deckline 7/8" x 1" x 12'. I could not find 1" pine boards 12' long. I used 3/4 x 4" x 12' for the stringers. I set my table saw for a 15 degree angle and ripped the board in the center. I then set table saw to 0 degrees and ripped each strip to width. For the notches on the molds. I would make them 1" by 3/4" with the notches parallel to the deckline. When the stringers are installed this will be in a straight line from stem to stern. I attached the stingers with screws from the bottom to the molds. This stringer is used to draw the deckline on the sides and to rest the ribs on.
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Author
Richard Lathrop
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