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I have one of the Drake bags. There are a couple of features that I think are really useful. One, they are light tan on the inside; that make seeing things easier. Second there are lots of pockets and clips on the inside for organizing things. I've found the to be reasonably waterproof. Not...

So why did you decide to trade up to the A400? Personally I think the recoil system looks a lot nicer on the A400 but the lay out of the rubber grip inserts on the Xtrema 1-2 would give you a better grip. What do you think?

Funny you bring that up as I had a browning gold 10 that I sold to buy the Extrema 1. The browning was a nice gun but was just too heavy for me. Oh well. I have 10 months to decide about this. I will, however, stay with the 3 in shells. Although I keep a few 3.5 inch BB in the blind bag in...

Interesing, There is no information Beretta's web site on LOP so I called Cabelas and asked them to measure one. They said it measures 14.25 in. That's the same as my Extrema 1. I guess I'll just have to take a coat and try sighting it.

As far as loads go, I bought the Extrema to shoot 3.5 in loads. I've used those for 7 years up until this season. The rest of the guys in our club shoot 3 in. So this year I went back to 3in and tried #3 shot. I had a good year as far number of ducks bagged. Really about the same as...

I've been shooting a 391 Extrema 1 for the past 8 years and it's been a very reliable gun. I'm thinking about trading up to the A400 Extrema for the reduced recoil. I'd like to hear from anyone who has shot the Extremas with and without the KO system. Is the recoil reduction really noticeable?

I bought a selection of the Parker paints (including the UV white) last year to paint up a dozen canvasbacks I had cast and burlapped. Parkers idea of colors for a canvas back is a cream colored body and a brown head. the flat black had a brown tone to it and never set up even after adding...

I've got a 15ft Devlin black brant for sale with lots of extras It's carrying a 40PH Merc SeaPro with a Stainless prop on the back end Here's partial list of what comes with it: trailer, Winter Aframe cover, two piece push pole, Anchor. spare prop, Bow line, Extra camo and more Starting...

As for the wood Mahogany is more rot resistant than oak but either should work. You can get some half oval stainless strip from Mcmaster Carr. I've had that on the keel of my Devlin BB for 20 years and they haven't shown any wear yet.

For straight stitching I been using a Viking 1040 for years. When I bought I had it set up for #69 nylon thread. That's the heavy thread used on most commercial boat covers. The neat thing about the Viking is that is has a 5 to gear shift. In low gear it can punch through a 1/4 of an inch of...

Are they self righting?

Everything I've done with epoxy has been west system. I never had a problem laying fresh resin over the blush. Maybe other brand have different characteristics. You might consider buying the West System boat building book. It's worth the $50 or so they get for it. Blush feels greasy or waxy...

You really don't need to remove the blush if you're going to put on more resin. But if you're going to sand to level everything then removing the blush will save a lot of sandpaper. I've found that amonia is the fastest way to remove it.

After seeing these pics I don't think I'll bother posting pics of the new boat hide I'm building. 2x4's and plywood just don't compare to this artistry

I've used a piece of 1/4 aluminum cut to fit inside the lip of the large WEST system cans. Set on a hot plate the aluminum spreads out the heat nicely and warms up quickly without overheating the resin

For doing fillets you can cut a circle of stiff plastic with a hole saw and then mount in on a stick. Make up several of different diameters. Use tongue depressors for small fillets Once the fillets are pretty stiff light brush them with lacquer thinner. That will smooth them out quite...

A-5's from the early 70's can handle steel if you go no tighter that improved modified. I wouldn't put steel through a supeposed.

I built a devlin BB the same way with glass under the keels. If you're going through this much work you really should remove the keels before glassing the hull That virtually ensures no rot can get into the hull. As for filling the seams before sanding out the hull I don't think it matter one...

You're right; time for a belt sander. I've had a Makita for years. Just be carfule once you go through the resin it will dig intot he cedar pretty quick. I'd stop short of taking it all off and switch to the DA with 80 grit.

You could try setting a circular saw to cut just through the glass. Score 1 foot wide strips. Then pry up a corner. You might be able to just peel a section off without sanding at all. This worrks of the layer against the wood was cloth. If it was mat that probably won't work