2025 Devlin Snow Goose Thread

Will,
The winch idea is great! Do alot of folks add this where you hunt? RM
nah... but most dont venture to the places I do. No one is as crazy as I am here it seems. I like it that way. I prep my lovely lady at home all the time, one of these days, im likely not to return. All i can do is prep as best as I possibly can and just roll with the punches that are presented.
 
Henry, Do you think your wife would be agreeable to photographing the flipping process. Alot of people on this site, including myself, would be interested in how you accomplish that. I'm guessing that you are painting the bottom first so plenty of time to talk her into it. RM

I'm sure Henry will come up with a great way to handle it, but flipping is such a non-issue that is doesn't merit too much discussion. I built a crude turning jig that is deeper and wider than the boat that goes on the motor bolts, so it will sit upright, on its side or upside down. Turn it by lifting the bow and work 2 come-alongs - dropping one side and lifting the other. That process makes it a 15 minute and one person job. I've flipped it twice at full weight and once during the build. Pics circa 2009.
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mid flip.
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I'm sure Henry will come up with a great way to handle it, but flipping is such a non-issue that is doesn't merit too much discussion. I built a crude turning jig that is deeper and wider than the boat that goes on the motor bolts, so it will sit upright, on its side or upside down. Turn it by lifting the bow and work 2 come-alongs - dropping one side and lifting the other. That process makes it a 15 minute and one person job. I've flipped it twice at full weight and once during the build. Pics circa 2009.
View attachment 66481

mid flip.
View attachment 66480

Better pic of the jig.
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Will, Does your MSTC have Wetlander or equivalent? RM
this is the only hull I havent done. I did my first two jon boats and a full ducker in wetlander. If I have time, im going to do this hull in wetlander when it gets back from utah and build the blind..... life permitting. Its been kind of a crazy year. Mom in law moving, other parents splitting, im getting surgery soon.... the list of craziness goes on and on. The ducker was sweet in full wetlander though.
 

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This sounds like a bass boat trying to get on plane due to the small area of the boat that rides when on plane. The MSTC runs similar to my bass boat I would say when on plane, only a 1/3 of my hull is touching water, vs my bass boat where maybe 1/4-1/5 of the hull is touching water. Its part of the reason this MSTC hull is so fast compared to other mudrigs Ive been in. Seems the excel boats just kind of plow and even with a big 115 on the back, still that hull has at least half of the hull running in the water at speed. You also never feel that lift up out of water. On a bass boat its obvious, the bow goes way up in the air, you can literally feel the transom pick up and then bow come down and water is skipping out the sides just behind my shoulders when on plane jammin down the lake. MSTC hull, I can feel that lift, and then when I jump from 10mph to 28mph, it takes about 4 seconds and I watch the water spray start skipping from the sides of my hull just where my grab bar is mounted, rest of the front of the boat is lifted out of the air. A huge reason why this boat does so good in shallow stuff, but also why ive had to figure out how to put a winch on it. You can run at speed in next to nothing, but you let off the throttle, ive been high centered and pushing to get it on stuff that floats. Its a nightmare and I had to go through a strong learning curve with that because it runs in shallow stuff (at speed) effortlessly and never feels like you're ever in trouble or starting to get shallow. It doesnt even lose speed, it just rides and rides well. Ive destroyed brand new props by having to trim up, build RPM and just burying the prop back down only moving an inch at a time, but it was all I could do to get the boat off a low spot when I was by myself.


Heres the website and you can see the reverse chine on my rig. I dont think you could build it from how your boat sits now henry. I think it would have to be constructed in a way that the it built the reverse chine into the design. I would go much thicker than what you all are recommended now, as the flats are the primary areas that take the beatings when running ice or bumping those logs, rocks or stumps.

You may want to increase your beer budget to include the rub rails/clamps. Depending on how you oriented the wood grain, they can be a real bitch as they like to slide up when clamping in place as your goal is not to squeeze out all the epoxy. Letting the epoxy stiffen up a bit helps. RMView attachment 66478
An alternative is to clamp and screw them from the inside working your way along.
 
ive been looking all morning for the pics I did on my first hull. that was the fun project. I had to flip that boat and put it back on the trailer and haul it home upside down. The looks I got taking it home from my buddies shop was the best part of that deal. Its not on this phone and if I ever turn on my laptop at home, Ill see if its on there. Otherwise, I might still have the old iphone from when I did that project. See if I can charge it up and find those old pics.

I think for my MSTC, Im going to put it on lifts and slowly walk the trailer out from under it. I have to build or figure out how im going to do this with where I live now. I dont think it would be that hard, but I am going to have to lay on my back and roll it on this time vs flipping over i think. I have never sprayed the wetlander, and rolling on is super easy and effective with this stuff.
 
this is the only hull I havent done. I did my first two jon boats and a full ducker in wetlander. If I have time, im going to do this hull in wetlander when it gets back from utah and build the blind..... life permitting. Its been kind of a crazy year. Mom in law moving, other parents splitting, im getting surgery soon.... the list of craziness goes on and on. The ducker was sweet in full wetlander though.
Love the Ducker, but your GWP steals the show .RM
 
Love the Ducker, but your GWP steals the show .RM
Thats my buddies drathar. Some cool dogs for sure! Not sure any have impressed me enough to not own a lab for bird hunting, but the blood tracking ability that is built into their genes is off the charts impressive. Theres blood tracking and then theres drath blood tracking. Seriously badass! My buddy who owns this dog, his brother killed a deer and gut shot it, called us and asked if we had ol gruff with us. We were just packing up a duck hunt and headed to the mountains. We get up there where he shot the deer, put gruff on the blood and let him work. About 2 miles later, he finds that deer piled up in a bunch of laid down wood. There was no chance we were finding that deer without that dog. Im not even going to lie, we were walking and tracking and i had many times where I was like "wtf are we doing, theres no way this dog is still tracking anything"..... but he sure was.

Ive never seen the test, but apparently only very few Draths actually pass their final masters test because Canines will not usually fetch other canines. I guess the test that makes your drath elite from all the others is the lay a blood trail down of coyote blood, stick it in a box that has 3 foot walls all the way around, and the dog has to jump in the box, pull that coyote out and bring it back to handler. Most wont, but the very few that do, you can guarantee your pups are worth lots of coin. Its a very protected breed, and all of them get tattoos in their inner ear. Too much for me, I just need a dog to eat, shit, pee and fetch my ducks and give me more laughs than frustrations.
 
That is my plan.
I tried Tod's method initially but did not work well given the amount of flair and deadrise in the hull. The clamps needed to twist slightly to follow the hull and I didn't want to risk splitting my very hard to find clear fir. I did use one screw on each end that screwed into the breasthook. Plus I didn't feel like removing screws and filling all those holes since there is no cloth on the inside to cover them. Without a helping hand however Tod's method may be your only option. Looks great so far! RM
 
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I tried Tod's method initially but did not work well given the amount of flair and deadrise in the hull. The clamps needed to twist slightly to follow the hull and I didn't want to risk splitting my very hard to find clear fir. I did use one screw on each end that screwed into the breasthook. Plus I didn't feel like removing screws and filling all those holes since there is no cloth on the inside to cover them. Without a helping hand however Tod's method may be your only option. Looks great so far! RM
I dont think there is as much curve and twist in the SG as your pole boat. My gameplan is to dry fit with clamp and screw, then leave it for a few days as I work on other things to let it take a bit of set. As always, that gameplay is subject to change once the work starts.
 
I tried Tod's method initially but did not work well given the amount of flair and deadrise in the hull. The clamps needed to twist slightly to follow the hull and I didn't want to risk splitting my very hard to find clear fir. I did use one screw on each end that screwed into the breasthook. Plus I didn't feel like removing screws and filling all those holes since there is no cloth on the inside to cover them. Without a helping hand however Tod's method may be your only option. Looks great so far! RM

I have confidence that Henry can drive a couple dozen screws and not ruin the sheer clamps by splitting them AND there is no reason to remove the screws if you use a stainless screw, which are inexpensive and widely available these days.

The way I'm suggesting isn't my method, it is just how it is done by most.
 
I have confidence that Henry can drive a couple dozen screws and not ruin the sheer clamps by splitting them AND there is no reason to remove the screws if you use a stainless screw, which are inexpensive and widely available these days.

The way I'm suggesting isn't my method, it is just how it is done by most.
I have a big collection of old brass and bronze screws (dad was/is a hoarder of such things) that I'll use for any screws for permanent use like this - so even cheaper!
 
I have confidence that Henry can drive a couple dozen screws and not ruin the sheer clamps by splitting them AND there is no reason to remove the screws if you use a stainless screw, which are inexpensive and widely available these days.

The way I'm suggesting isn't my method, it is just how it is done by most.
Copied from web:
Stainless requires exposure to oxygen to avoid rusting; it's the chromium oxide layer that protects the steel. When completely buried, the chromium oxide layer breaks down and the residual oxygen starts a process called crevice corrosion. Passivization restores a fresh layer of chromium, but passivization cannot be done once fasteners are buried. This is why bronze fasteners are used on wooden boats; the bronze does not need a supply of fresh oxygen. Unfortunately, bronze fasteners are very expensive.

Fortunately Henry's dad left a ready supply. RM
 
Copied from web:
Stainless requires exposure to oxygen to avoid rusting; it's the chromium oxide layer that protects the steel. When completely buried, the chromium oxide layer breaks down and the residual oxygen starts a process called crevice corrosion. Passivization restores a fresh layer of chromium, but passivization cannot be done once fasteners are buried. This is why bronze fasteners are used on wooden boats; the bronze does not need a supply of fresh oxygen. Unfortunately, bronze fasteners are very expensive.

Fortunately Henry's dad left a ready supply. RM
Fortunately, the epoxy usually cures before crevice corrosion sets in.
 
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