BBSB REBUILD dodger is all done

Chris,

I have really enjoyed watching this project evolve and following the decision process at each step moving forward. It has been educational watching you reclaim a really nice boat. It is looking great and I am looking forward to seeing pictures of it being hunted.
 
You better take the straps off. They will create too much drag and catch a lot of vegitation.
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Thanks for the tip. I will use the grass they pick up for camo. I thought someone woulda said something about the pink and green poka dot towls i used to protect the boat from the metal part of the straps. I called the girlfriend and said can you bring me a towl i can use on the boat. she brings me that one of all ones to bring
 
Chris,

I have really enjoyed watching this project evolve and following the decision process at each step moving forward. It has been educational watching you reclaim a really nice boat. It is looking great and I am looking forward to seeing pictures of it being hunted.
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Paul,
Not sure if you remember, But you were the first one to reply to my very first post back in Feb about the motor mount on this boat being off center. I am glad that you are enjoying the build. I liked looking back in the old rebuild posts and watching the builds others have done. Like Dave D. and C. Taylor and Mike. I learned a lot from them. Its been a fun project. I am at the point that I want to finish it. I wanna get her in the water. Only 72 days till our south zone opens here I can't wait.
 
Lookn great Chris! You're going to have a great time in it for many years. I know it has to be done, but I think it's a shame to paint over all that purdy wood, the epoxy gives it such depth of the finish.
Dennis
 
Chris,

Just to stir the pot; why use fasteners on the runners? If you need to replace them in the future I'd think the screws would make it harder. Additionally you have a wicked nice glassed hull and now you want to put holes in it? I would think that epoxy would hold great and the 3/4" thick runners would hold the bedded aluminum with short screws nicely.

Scott
 
Scott, good points. I used ipe for my runners, and it took 2" ratch straps to pull it tight to the hull. I suppose if you steam bent or soaked the wood, and it would not take much force to align it with the hull, thickened epoxy would do the trick? Dave
 
Scott,
I thought about just using cabasil and epoxy to bond the runners. I decided to go with both bolts and thickened epoxy. A few guys I talked to did both so I went that route. As dave said if you steam em or soak em it would probably work well. I already drilled all the holes. Its kinda scarey drilling holes in a hull you just spent months fixing up. It went well though I drilled all holes through the hull and hit all ribs on center. I will be putting them on this weekend. I will have help on Sunday to put em on I can't wait. Then I can get ready to paint.
 
Its kinda scarey drilling holes in a hull you just spent months fixing up.
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I know EXACTLY what you mean. I had the same foreboding feeling when I drilled holes through the hull of my boat for the runners...

 
Here is the runner all drilled out. The aluminum runner gaurd is next to it on the hull. I will be putting that on last to protect the runner. Got all the holes drilled. Also counter bored the holes so I can cover the screw heads with epoxy. I then traced the runner on the hull with a sharpie so I can line it up real easy. It will have thickened epoxy on it when I put em back on so the faster I can line em up and get the bolts in and tightened the better. For the last bolt that goes in the transom I just got 2 1/2 inch stainless lag bolts and will sink em in the transom.
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Your still doing a heck of a job on your boat. Keep it up. Just in case you haven't noticed your making her better than new. That isn't an easy task. If you can get it done before Tuckerton, you should enter it.
 
Your still doing a heck of a job on your boat. Keep it up. Just in case you haven't noticed your making her better than new. That isn't an easy task. If you can get it done before Tuckerton, you should enter it.

________________________________________________________________________________Mike,
Thanks. I should have it done in 2 or 3 weeks. Long before the Tuckerton show. I don't know about putting her in the show. I will only be there on Sunday. Also I had a lot of help from boat builder Bill Simonsen. I would feel like I was entering his work not just mine. I will talk to him and see how he feels about it.
 
Today I finished up the runners by filling the bolt holes with thickened epoxy. I also was able to put the oarlocks and motor board on. With the oarlocks I used thickened epoxy and bolts to attach them. I did the same with the motor mount. On the motor mount I Used thickened epoxy and I put the top bolts in straight and the bottom bolts I put in on about a 30 degree angle. It would make it harder for it to ever come off. The bottom bolts need to come out to be able to get it back off. This is how Bill Simonsen does his so I did aswell. I will be able to start paint next week. I still need to put the racks on and the dodger coaming. Here are a few pictures.

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I have a question about putting the grass rails on. I don't want to put em on with thickened epoxy or 5200 in case I bust one I want to be able to put a new one on without sawing the old one off. What can I use to seal it but not glue it?
 
I have a question about putting the grass rails on. I don't want to put em on with thickened epoxy or 5200 in case I bust one I want to be able to put a new one on without sawing the old one off. What can I use to seal it but not glue it?
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3M 4200 ...it seals and adhears, but not as perminate as 5200
 
Chris, you are doing an awesome job with your rebuild. Thanks for giving us the "play-by-play" and sharing your project with us. I can't wait to see the finished boat!
 
3M 4200 or 5200 will provide the seal, but will not provide much structural strength. You will be relying on your bolts/screws, so make sure you have good bearing surface below decks for each mount. If you are like me, you will grab these to get in and out, step on them pull the boat around with them so they better be rigid. I would put something between fender washers and the cedar planking... I used some Azek Deck material, all plastic, dense. Not the trim material which is relatively soft. Thickened epoxy cuts just as easy as the 4200 or 5200, maybe easier. A Sawsall and a sander and they are gone as long as you plan your fasteners so they are accessible. SS Lags from below with fender washers should be removable in the future.

Dave
 
Chris, you are doing an awesome job with your rebuild. Thanks for giving us the "play-by-play" and sharing your project with us. I can't wait to see the finished boat!

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Mark,
Thanks for the comments. I can't wait to finish her either! It should bbe done (I HOPE) in the next 2 weeks. She is getting close to paint.
 
The rails already have ss screws going in from the top that's how Bill and I put em on so I will do that again. But I see your point about how I will use then so rigid is better thanks
 
I was looking at my motor board and noticed a small crack in the bottom its only about 3/4 of an inch. What's the best way to deal with this and keep it from cracking more? I was thinking drill a hole at the end of the crack and fill it with epoxy to stop the crack. Then fill the crack itself with epoxy. The crack isn't that big and probably wouldn't. Be a. Problem but I think over time it may crack more with the freezing and thawing. With cold and warm temps
 
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