Boat building: Stiffening a plywood hatch cover -- I don't want it to flex.

Very intuitive RM, are you psychic? You are actually correct, I do have a receiver hitch of sorts under the deck!

I'll go into more detail, later in my build thread because there is actually a cool story behind the construction of the bollard.

But briefly — I found an off-cut of aluminium square tube in our scrap pile which happened to be the perfect sleeve for the bollard. Later when I’m ready to mount the bollard I’ll pour in some epoxy to glue it in. It would have been too complicated to glass the bollard into the anchor well once the deck was on, and I wouldn’t have been able to already paint the well which was much easier while it was open.

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Matthias~

I been thoroughly enjoying this thread - appreciating your fine craftsmanship and creativity. Great work all around on a sweet vessel!

BTW: As you have already shown - doing as much as you can BEFORE the decks are on is a very important "rule" in any build. (Yes, I learned this the hard way....)

re Bollard. I would bore a drain hole in the bottom of the "receiver" - just in case. And, I would bed the bollard in 3M 5200 instead of epoxy, especially where it passes through the deck. The pliability at a joint that will get lots of stress on it should wear longer than a brittle adhesive - at least in my experience (more of my seat-of-the-pants engineering).

Congratulations once again!

SJS
 
Matthias~

I been thoroughly enjoying this thread - appreciating your fine craftsmanship and creativity. Great work all around on a sweet vessel!

BTW: As you have already shown - doing as much as you can BEFORE the decks are on is a very important "rule" in any build. (Yes, I learned this the hard way....)

re Bollard. I would bore a drain hole in the bottom of the "receiver" - just in case. And, I would bed the bollard in 3M 5200 instead of epoxy, especially where it passes through the deck. The pliability at a joint that will get lots of stress on it should wear longer than a brittle adhesive - at least in my experience (more of my seat-of-the-pants engineering).

Congratulations once again!

SJS

Excellent, I’m happy that you are enjoying the thread. And thanks for your input Steve.

About the bollard
I was hoping that the bollard would act as a post to add some rigid support to the deck.

Thinking about the “receiver” now, ideally it should have been longer so that the deck rests on it, but at the time of construction, I thought of it’s purpose to be an inch-high flange at the base of the bollard to tie it to the anchor well floor. Then, just before I cut the tubing I changed my mind and made it taller so that I could engrave a message into it.

AluTubeEngraved IMG_9988.jpeg

To tie the bollard in at the top of the deck, I had planned to make a plywood collar/flange to act as a buttress. I was then going to fillet and glass the bollard in so that it became a rigid integral part of the boat. In my mind it was always going to be rigid and the deck hole was cut as a firm fit to help in that regard.

Bollard.jpeg

You’ve thrown a bit of a spanner in the works with the suggestion of not rigidly mounting the bollard — I’ll have to have a think about that.
 
Matthias,
Perhaps you could put the collar under the deck and retain the function of interchangeability. That way your receiver could act as a bollard or perhaps a mount for spot/flood light or even a winch. When my Kara Hummer needed a spud hole through the deck I did it in this manner:
20220415_104706.jpg20220205_163534.jpg
 
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Matthias,
Perhaps you could put the collar under the deck and retain the function of interchangeability. That way your receiver could act as a bollard or perhaps a mount for spot/flood light or even a winch. When my Kara Hummer needed a spud hole through the deck I did it in this manner:
Damn, that’s nice! Too bad you didn’t show me this 2 months ago!
I don’t think think I want to re-engineer the bollard at this point. When I first started building I was happy just to build the Cackler straight up as per Sam’s plan, but the more l learned, the more pictures I looked at my vision for the build started to change. If I add every desire the build will never finish. I’m at the point now after starting one year ago where I just want the thing done.

I’m going to add it to the list for the next boat which includes reverse chines, mini swim deck/steps, poling platform and a side console!
 
Matthias,
If you are my age, this is where you start to ask yourself, "What would I do with my life if I had to do it all over again?" I'm happy you are having fun; your enthusiasm is infectious!
RM
 
Work on the hatch lid ground to a halt due to being busy at work and then I had to do a 1500-odd mile road trip to pick up my cactus collection from where I used to live.
Whilst driving I did a lot of thinking about the boat and decided to pursue the idea to use foam for stiffening as suggested by
@Huntindave McCann
I managed to stop in at a hardware store and buy the $19.85 foam sheet mentioned earlier in the thread.

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This is what I bought.

Back at work I ran a strip of the foam through the drum sander a few times to make it thinner and remover the smooth faces so that the epoxy would adhere to it. I was sceptical about using only foam to add rigidity to the lid so I cut some thin ply rib/stringer pieces on the laser cutter to glue in like you see in surfboards.

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Laser cutting the ply.

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Here’s the mock-up of the concept I thought might work. I didn’t think I needed to go full length as the lid gets narrower and is less likely to flex there.

9C8C74C1-3049-4545-B370-5668CBDACA2B.jpeg
Used commercially available thickened epoxy glue to stick it all together.

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Needed some weights on the job pieces after firming up the clamps to stop them from buckling.

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The next day I shaped the glued pieces with the saw and sander to fit semi snuggly against the central rib of the lid.
They were then painted with neat epoxy and I let them sit for about half an hour to give the epoxy the best chance of soaking into broken cells of the sanded surface. While they were resting I mixed small chopped glass strands and fumed silica into the leftover epoxy to make the glue that would stick them to the lid.


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Chop strand glue mixture applied.

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I’ve only ever used mixture like this to fill oversized holes for through-hull and deck fasteners, but I’m hoping it will work for this application.

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Glue-up done.

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Today I 40-grit sanded the set epoxy to prepare for adding the glass layer over the top. I wanted to do the glue-up and glass sheathing at the same time wet on wet and vacuum bag the whole shebang but I didn’t bring a large enough plastic sheet to work to make the bag. I’ve now made a large enough bag (which the lid is resting on in the photo) but I’ll use it when I sheath the top of the lid.

C6C14F8D-6168-46D6-88CB-C2C68EB55C6B.jpeg
Here’s the foam sheathed with two layers of glass: 1x standard 200gsm cloth and 1x 265gsm +-45° biaxial cloth over the top. The sloping back edge (left hand side of the pic) also received two layers of 160gsm 3/4inch wide tape for a bit of added strength and to tidy up some of the loose strands along that face. Since I had the vacuum bag made, I did consider bagging this before I laid the glass, but due to the relative light weight of the cloth used it all conformed to the shape of the foam nicely, so I left it as is.

That’s it for now.
 
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I don't think you're going to have any strength problems with that hatch!
This thing has just about become a mini boat building exercise in itself!:rolleyes:
I like experimenting, which is a bit of a hinderance to production, but it does make the build more interesting and fun. If the foam doesn't delaminate I should be golden and have my own little dance floor at the bow of the boat!
 
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