Devlin’s Mallard Build

Some pics of a little progress and bulkhead opened up, doubled up bulkhead where I took the extra material from.
 

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Shawn

The bulkhead is a little thin where the strongback sits. I'd sister another layer of 3/4" there on the backside out of view to put some strength back.
 
Looking at the transom, I’m thinking the “handle holes” might interfere with the motor mount?
 

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Looking at the transom, I’m thinking the “handle holes” might interfere with the motor mount?
From some googling about, I think there is plenty of room between the “handle holes”. I didn’t find a definitive bolt pattern, but it looks like 2.8” between center line of transom and centerline of outer bolt of motor.
 
I have just a bit more completed. Side knees are in. Rear floatation Bulkheads are done. And added 2 additional pieces of plywood around the strong back notch.
Also I tapped all bulkheads in and now I need to purchase some 1x and start making rips for gunwales.
 

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Mr. Devlin specs fir 1x (vertical grain preferably). That’s not available at my lumberyard (vertical grain). Do any of you like any other species of wood? This will be for the gunwales, coamings and keels.
 
Those are all subject to abuse so I would tend towards something hard. Mahogany is really nice if you can find it in suitable length. You can scarf joint shorter lengths if that is all you can get your hands on. White oak, black locust and clear long leaf pine should be obtainable in your area. Pine bends nicely but oak and locust do not. The shear clamp might have to be laminated in place to make that bend in these woods. Not hard, but another step. Teak is expensive but would be a good choice. Don't be afraid to call suppliers outside your area. On my first boat I drove three hours one-way to get mahogany. It was worth the trip.
 
I have just a bit more completed. Side knees are in. Rear floatation Bulkheads are done. And added 2 additional pieces of plywood around the strong back notch.
Also I tapped all bulkheads in and now I need to purchase some 1x and start making rips for gunwales.
Looking good
 
Those are all subject to abuse so I would tend towards something hard. Mahogany is really nice if you can find it in suitable length. You can scarf joint shorter lengths if that is all you can get your hands on. White oak, black locust and clear long leaf pine should be obtainable in your area. Pine bends nicely but oak and locust do not. The shear clamp might have to be laminated in place to make that bend in these woods. Not hard, but another step. Teak is expensive but would be a good choice. Don't be afraid to call suppliers outside your area. On my first boat I drove three hours one-way to get mahogany. It was worth the trip.
Thank you Eric, I will check back at the lumberyard. Devlin calls for brass half ovals to protect the keels, which are a little pricey with shipping. If I use these harder, more durable woods, maybe I can omit them?
 
Thank you Eric, I will check back at the lumberyard. Devlin calls for brass half ovals to protect the keels, which are a little pricey with shipping. If I use these harder, more durable woods, maybe I can omit them?
Shawn,

Where are you located in NJ?

Rick Lathrop
 
The keels take a lot of abuse so I protected mine. I used aluminum strips available at my local box store at attached with wood screws and bedded them in 3M 5200. I had to drill and countersink but aluminum is easy to work with. Still going strong.
 
The keels take a lot of abuse so I protected mine. I used aluminum strips available at my local box store at attached with wood screws and bedded them in 3M 5200. I had to drill and countersink but aluminum is easy to work with. Still going strong.
Great info
 
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