Devlin’s Mallard Build

Well thank you sir, we (my boys and dog) hope to have some really memorable times hunting this boat. Mr. Sam Devlin really designs a “pretty” lookin hunting boat.
 
So I think I’m going to reinforce underneath of the deck just under the coamings with a strip of 1 1/2” rip of 3/8” okoume. This way I can use ss screw from the bottom up to try and “tame” the oak coamings into shape and not rip the fasteners through the edge of deck when it fights back.
 

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Shawn

When I refurbed my Brant last winter I realized today's led strip lights are a really good addition to light the cockpit. If you let the deck extend over the knees about 1/2 - 3/4" you have a place to run them the entire length of the cockpit. Just thought I'd mention this.
 
Eric Patterson said:
Shawn

When I refurbed my Brant last winter I realized today's led strip lights are a really good addition to light the cockpit. If you let the deck extend over the knees about 1/2 - 3/4" you have a place to run them the entire length of the cockpit. Just thought I'd mention this.
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Great idea, I will add some sort of led lighting too, just haven’t formulated what yet. It’s to late for me to extend the decking, but I could notch the top of the knees to allow the led strip to pass.
 
SHe's coming along nicely.
Did you install your bow eye before you put the deck on?
 
Carl said:
SHe's coming along nicely.
Did you install your bow eye before you put the deck on?
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thanks. I am going to use a lag style bow eye that I’ll fill the hole with epoxy and run the lag through with sealant around an outside washer after it’s finished. I know it’s not as strong as a carriage bolt but thought it will work?
 
I've never seen that approach, I will defer to those with more boat building experience!
 
Carl said:
I've never seen that approach, I will defer to those with more boat building experience!
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Lol my approach is unconventional or stupid gotcha lol. I still have to hole saw that area of the deck to pour in the floatation foam so I could cut in a spot where I could tape a nut and washer on a wrench and fish it through the hole so I can thread the carriage eye bolt into it from outside, pour in the foam and secure the hole back down.
 
So I am thinking of building the decking inside the boat with 1x planks over cross framing like the plan shows but I’m not going to attach it to the hull. So I can remove it for whatever reason. Or do y’all think it’s not a good idea to do?
 
By decking do you mean the floorboard? Bonding the floor to the hull adds a tremendous amount of strength and rigidity to the hull and sometimes is needed. Especially when running quickly with an outboard through chop. All that bouncing can lead to cracking in a hull that isn't stiff. If you don't plan to run chop at speed, and take things slow, I don't see a reason that won't be fine.

Eric
 
Eric Patterson said:
By decking do you mean the floorboard? Bonding the floor to the hull adds a tremendous amount of strength and rigidity to the hull and sometimes is needed. Especially when running quickly with an outboard through chop. All that bouncing can lead to cracking in a hull that isn't stiff. If you don't plan to run chop at speed, and take things slow, I don't see a reason that won't be fine.

Eric
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Yes I did and I’ll be sure to epoxy the framing down
 
The framing is only part of the equation. The plywood floorboard is what gives you the utmost rigidity when bonded to the hull and framing.
 
Eric Patterson said:
The framing is only part of the equation. The plywood floorboard is what gives you the utmost rigidity when bonded to the hull and framing.
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Ok I understand Mr. Devlin has an alternate drawing showing what you’re explaining however I liked the original. I’ll post a post a pic. I need to consider your point though.
 

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Shawn_B said:
Ok I understand Mr. Devlin has an alternate drawing showing what you’re explaining however I liked the original. I’ll post a post a pic. I need to consider your point though.
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Again, I don't see the need to bond the floor unless you are running with a strong outboard, with a load, and in chop. If you are running in those conditions, I think bonding the floor will greatly reduce the chance of cracking the hull due to stress.
 
Eric Patterson said:
Again, I don't see the need to bond the floor unless you are running with a strong outboard, with a load, and in chop. If you are running in those conditions, I think bonding the floor will greatly reduce the chance of cracking the hull due to stress.
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Thank you for your thoughts, I’m going to run it on ~ 10hp outboard. If I do go with his original drawings I’ll add some more cross sectional supports and bond the two outer most boards directly to the hull. I appreciate all your guys feedback!
 
There was some recent discussion on the pros and cons of poured foam floatation. Seems like guys were moving away from that and using foam blocks, pool noodles, etc. just an FYI.
 
Thank you Carl, it’s probably too late for me now though. I’ll definitely make a mental note for if I ever build another one (probably gonna need a little time after this to spend time fixing things around the house 😉).
 
Just a suggestion if you need to open a deck for poured flotation. If the volume to be filled is less than a large trash can bag, do yourself a favor and line the boat with a doubled up plastic bag. That way if the foam ever needs removal, it's not stuck to the boat. Plus, one would hope the doubled up trash bags keep moisture out to some extent. So, place one bag inside the other, gently push through the hole as best you can. Then take an air hose connected to your compressor, stick it in the bags and slowly inflate them inside the boat. Then you're ready to pour.
 
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