You got a great boat. I have the same boat and had the same problems. The boat is molded and a chopper gun was used to produce the hull. He did not have thru hall fittings installed at the motor well or drain plug area (need to install). The floorboard was not sealed ( causing the wood to rot near the drain hole from the bottom up). I have to do a section of my floorboard this off-season. Also, the boat will leak the at the top cover seam. I installed a rubber rub rail and used 5200 to seal it (no leaks in 25 years from that area). I did not cut the fiberglass out of the transom, I removed all the wood and cut a piece of marine-grade plywood to fit.
Starting the AA Broadbill project
- Thread starter ScottCK
- Start date
I requested to follow the group and waiting for approval. Have some questions about production years. Mine has a company tag that has a Florida address and the state has its production year as 1971. Just wondering if the state is right. If so, it is older than I thought originally.
Scott
Why not contact the Arthur Armstrong founder Dr. Thomas Lindheimer yourself? After Tom sold AA he finished his PhD. in biochemistry and has owned several companies. Go straight to the source when you can.
Why not contact the Arthur Armstrong founder Dr. Thomas Lindheimer yourself? After Tom sold AA he finished his PhD. in biochemistry and has owned several companies. Go straight to the source when you can.
Anyone know what this “clip” is called? Looks like this one is missing a part and the one on the other side is missing completely. It is the last “snap” on the canvas top Assuming I’ll need 2 of them when I get to that part of the rebuild.
I guess it is just a more secure clip than a standard snap???
I guess it is just a more secure clip than a standard snap???
roy brewington
Well-known member
The piece with screw looks to be a deformed male canvas snap. They are available with the screw attached or as a crimp on style. Can also be bought in small quantity's at bx, store like Lowes. They are available in bulk on Amazon. Get stainless. Of course that needs to mate with a female canvas snap on your canvas . Was that the mating point your showing in second pic. Or it could be the remnants of a twist type canvas attachment point. Male in first pic and female end in 2nd. Can,t recall the proper name for that one. Sure someone will chime in with it though. More I look at it its the second suggestion.
Tom Watson
New member
That broken fastener is called a "self tapping canvas twist stud". Available on line in chrome plated brass.
Thanks found it online.
Also picked up my Coosa board today so the transom rebuild will start as soon as I can get back to the shop.
Started working on cleaning up the top half of the boat to get it ready for paint. Overall it is in good shape, just a few chips in the gelcoat. I do know that the front deck is a little warped. I think the prior owner had something heavy sitting on it for a while and it took the crown out of it. I am going to need to figure out how to build a support to go under it so that I can get the correct shape back. Based on early measurements, I will be able to support it from the floor but figuring how tall/high to make the support is going to require placing the top half on to get exact measurements.
Very nice; looks professional!
thanks. put the brass drainplug in today and set the top half of the boat back on it. Looks like I am going to need to make some minor adjustments as the top is sitting about 1/8 to 1/4" further forward from the original position. It sits down properly but the screw holes dont line up.
Been a bit as life has been getting in the way. Wired up the lights last night and now am ready to attach the top to the bottom. Had to wait, because there are areas you just cant reach with the top attached. Know it is a little non-traditional to have 3 LED spot lights on it but after almost hitting a pole in the river as a kid and also because so many people seem to love to run the river at night with NO lights, I go the other direction.
Next steps, attach top, get 25hp motor running right, remake the canvas dodger.
Next steps, attach top, get 25hp motor running right, remake the canvas dodger.
Here's a small tip that may save some money on your dodger. After spending over a thousand for a Sailrite sewing machine (no regrets) I discovered 3M makes a permanent basting tape that replaces stitches. Expensive as hell but on a small one time project, cost effective. Just be sure to purchase a fabric that doesn't have a coating on either side. Richard
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Been a while for me to get back to the boat but had some time over the weekend to sew up a new dodger for it. Had a bit of measuring issue in that I used the old dry rotted dodger as a template, but I did not take into account the fact it had some shrinkage. I still need to add some grassing straps to it. Had an issue with the sewing machine on that last little bit in that the presser foot did not want to stay down. I need to get that fixed before I add the straps. Overall, I think this will work.
Scott,
Very impressive turn around! You would not even recognize it as the same boat. Good job! Are you refurbishing the trailer next? Steve Sanford has informative posts on that very subject.
RM
Very impressive turn around! You would not even recognize it as the same boat. Good job! Are you refurbishing the trailer next? Steve Sanford has informative posts on that very subject.
RM
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Scott
I think you'll really like having the dodger. Time well spent. She should be ready to go for this season and with that 25 on the back will flat out haul ass. Are you interested in doing another Arthur Armstrong refurb? My hunting partner has a Wigeon for sale. It needs some work but nothing you can't handle. I'd like to see it get in the hands of someone who knows what they are doing and will do a good job. It would make a nice boat for your son. The two of you out, each in your own Armstrong sneakbox, would be a cool set-up.
I think you'll really like having the dodger. Time well spent. She should be ready to go for this season and with that 25 on the back will flat out haul ass. Are you interested in doing another Arthur Armstrong refurb? My hunting partner has a Wigeon for sale. It needs some work but nothing you can't handle. I'd like to see it get in the hands of someone who knows what they are doing and will do a good job. It would make a nice boat for your son. The two of you out, each in your own Armstrong sneakbox, would be a cool set-up.
roy brewington
Well-known member
It will flat out fly with a 25 . Had a 2 stroke 25 on my old Blackjack first time around. Expect to go in the 30,s easily.
THOSE ARE ROOKIE NUMBERS! I’m back down to 4 and a quarter boats(one is a drift boat four of us bought to share/use together). 25’ pontoon “her boat” , 17’ crestliner Nordic, 15’ spira Carolina dory I built years ago, and a fiberglass banks/ Gloucester light dory.
I’m very lucky, my wife doesn’t give me to much strife about them. Plus “I need them for the kids” once it’s for the kids anything flies right?!
Boat looks great, and should be bulletproof proof now that you moved the build into the 21st century
Tony
yep, my fleet is a bass boat, a 19' duck boat, the Broadbill, 2 pumpkin seed layouts, ski boat, and the jet ski. Space is a bigger issue than the wife. During hunting season, the big duck boat and the 2 layouts go in the boat house. I still have to figure out how I am going to get the Broadbill in the water as I am lucky in that I don't have to trailer boats to go hunting. Wondering if it will fit on the Jet ski floating dock??
I would like to have the Wigeon as I like the look of it more than the Broadbill but just don't see it happening unless it was a better bargain than the Broadbill was and I seriously doubt that.
I would like to have the Wigeon as I like the look of it more than the Broadbill but just don't see it happening unless it was a better bargain than the Broadbill was and I seriously doubt that.