Devlin bluebill build thread.
- Thread starter Paul W
- Start date
I already notched the floor to do exactly that, so I also don't think I will have issues. Thanks Eric!
Todd, I am going to bond the floor in, as well as bonding it to the supports. It will tie into the knees as well, so I will let you know if problems arise, but I think I will be okay. I weigh 300 ish lbs so stomping on unsupported ply would only be a matter of time until I broke it.
Paul
I beveled the bottom of my floorboard (1/2" meranti) to match the shallow hull angle and glassed the underside. That will protect it and give a large surface to bond it to the hull. I've kept a close eye on it and there isn't a crack anywhere.
Eric
I beveled the bottom of my floorboard (1/2" meranti) to match the shallow hull angle and glassed the underside. That will protect it and give a large surface to bond it to the hull. I've kept a close eye on it and there isn't a crack anywhere.
Eric
Pete McMiller
Well-known member
No, Paul, no need to paint under the floor. The primary reason to paint over epoxy, other than for looks/camo is to protect it from the effects of UV from the sun. If it's not visible it's ok.
Thinking ahead, after my floor was in I glued Army Surplus OD green ethafoam sleeping mats to the floor with contact cement. After 10 years they are still there. The advantages are many; warmer, quieter, way easier on your knees, much less slippery when in icy or even muddy conditions. Sometimes it takes a bit of sleuthing to find the mats but if you do they are $12-15 each.
Similar application where I glued the mats down on the floor and backrest of my last layout:
Thinking ahead, after my floor was in I glued Army Surplus OD green ethafoam sleeping mats to the floor with contact cement. After 10 years they are still there. The advantages are many; warmer, quieter, way easier on your knees, much less slippery when in icy or even muddy conditions. Sometimes it takes a bit of sleuthing to find the mats but if you do they are $12-15 each.
Similar application where I glued the mats down on the floor and backrest of my last layout:
Pete's dead on with the GI bed mats. They are the perfect duck boat floor covering.
Ron Schuna
Well-known member
Check these bad boys out....may have to get some myself
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/4-pk-interlocking-camp-floor-tiles-realtree-ap?a=1182554
The link above.
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/4-pk-interlocking-camp-floor-tiles-realtree-ap?a=1182554
The link above.
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Tom Scholberg
Well-known member
Paul, I also am a big fan of the sleeping mats for the floor. I found some of that stuff at Axe Man a while back or call Harris Warehouse in St Paul. When I get back in town I'll check to see if I have some.
On another note: Trailers. The keel should support the boat on the trailer and the bunks just stabilize. I set my trailers up so the boat is resting on keel rollers and only just touching the bunks before I tie it down. When the tie downs are tightened the boat is solid on the bunks. Works for me and my boats- try it and see. Good Luck and the boat looks great
On another note: Trailers. The keel should support the boat on the trailer and the bunks just stabilize. I set my trailers up so the boat is resting on keel rollers and only just touching the bunks before I tie it down. When the tie downs are tightened the boat is solid on the bunks. Works for me and my boats- try it and see. Good Luck and the boat looks great
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I've used both the GI mats and these interlocking mats. I purchased the interlocking ones simply because I could pick them up locally on short notice. Either one seems to work equally well, for me.
So today I finished the floor up and epoxied the bottom side two coats, and coated the inside bottom if the hull twice.
Then while things were still tacky, I did this
Note cutouts for access on front and rear end, for drainage/ventilation and flushing etc. I was thinking of adding a drain plug, the rear hatch would provide access to this. The covers will simply be the cutouts with oversize pieces on top.
Then while things were still tacky, I did this
Note cutouts for access on front and rear end, for drainage/ventilation and flushing etc. I was thinking of adding a drain plug, the rear hatch would provide access to this. The covers will simply be the cutouts with oversize pieces on top.
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Pete McMiller
Well-known member
Nice job on the floor. Yes, for sure put in a drain plug. You might find, as I did, that accessing the plug from inside is very difficult or impossible due to the configuration inside the access hole. My solution was to put the plug in from the outside of the transome.
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Paul~
I agree with Pete about adding a transom plug - and, I would install it from the outside. Either way, it's a good idea to attach the plug to the hull. I use tarred nylon decoy line. (...and I see I need to burn that frayed end.....)
And, although I have never lost one this way, I DO keep a spare in my on-board toolbox.
Thanks again for posting your progress reports - you're doing a fine job!
All the best,
SJS
I agree with Pete about adding a transom plug - and, I would install it from the outside. Either way, it's a good idea to attach the plug to the hull. I use tarred nylon decoy line. (...and I see I need to burn that frayed end.....)
And, although I have never lost one this way, I DO keep a spare in my on-board toolbox.
Thanks again for posting your progress reports - you're doing a fine job!
All the best,
SJS
Capt Rich Geminski
Well-known member
I have a Southbay with no drain. Still looking for a way to install one. I installed one in my Jersey boat. Drilled a plug in the motor mount for a spare plug. Never lost one, but always knew it was there...
Steve any idea how to put one in the Southbay???
Steve any idea how to put one in the Southbay???
Pete McMiller
Well-known member
Rich, Would a garboard drain plug work? Something like this: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=8168
Tom Barb
Active member
This is an awesome build. I have been watching this closely. Great job Paul.
Steve, I too am looking to put a plug in my Sneakbox. Is that just a piece of copper pipe? I am a little confused as to when to put it in as well. Before glassing, after glassing? What seals the pipe?
Steve, I too am looking to put a plug in my Sneakbox. Is that just a piece of copper pipe? I am a little confused as to when to put it in as well. Before glassing, after glassing? What seals the pipe?
Pete McMiller
Well-known member
Tom,
Steve may have another option but this is what I used : http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=613&familyName=Moeller+Drain+Tubes
Drilled a hole after the boat was pretty much done. Sealed with epoxy though I don't see why 5200 wouldn't work also. These are sized to the most popular drain plugs.
Steve may have another option but this is what I used : http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=613&familyName=Moeller+Drain+Tubes
Drilled a hole after the boat was pretty much done. Sealed with epoxy though I don't see why 5200 wouldn't work also. These are sized to the most popular drain plugs.
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Pete & Tom~
I would use the Moeller tubes, too. Install after 'glassing. I like 3M 5200 a bit better than epoxy because it can move a little bit. Either way, I would sand the outside of the tube with 40 or 60 grit to give the adhesive something o bite on.
Toughest part is flaring the straight end. The rolled lip goes on the same side of the hull as the plug. (I like the plug on the outside - because I usually drain it on the ramp.) They make a special flaring tool for this task - but I do not install enough to make it worth my while to own one. Maybe a local boatshop would lend one. Otherwise, a ballpeen hammer or a big plumb bob can do the trick of flaring the straight end.
Hope this helps,
SJS
I would use the Moeller tubes, too. Install after 'glassing. I like 3M 5200 a bit better than epoxy because it can move a little bit. Either way, I would sand the outside of the tube with 40 or 60 grit to give the adhesive something o bite on.
Toughest part is flaring the straight end. The rolled lip goes on the same side of the hull as the plug. (I like the plug on the outside - because I usually drain it on the ramp.) They make a special flaring tool for this task - but I do not install enough to make it worth my while to own one. Maybe a local boatshop would lend one. Otherwise, a ballpeen hammer or a big plumb bob can do the trick of flaring the straight end.
Hope this helps,
SJS
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Having right tool for the job ALWAYS makes the job go smoother. I suspect, anyone one with a wood lathe could duplicate the professional style tool out of some hardwood. A wooden "tool" and a common bolt should get the job done for a one time use.
Biggest issue, as I see it, for a nice neat job is determining the proper tube length for your particular transom thickness. There should be a given amount of protrusion of the straight end of the tube beyond the face of the transom prior to the crimping procedure. This extra length,when crimped over, will form the flange. I don't know how much material should be allowed but that info may well be included when purchasing the raw tube. One end of the tube will of course already be preformed and you will only need to form the one on the other end.
I don't understand why you need a flare on the inside. I didn't flare mine on my snowgoose. In fact if the inside is flared that is going to leave a rim that will impede draining. My plug is set perfectly to drain every last tablespoon.
To do mine... I drilled it oversize with a bit of an angle to it to hit the hull bottom perfectly (inside of tube flush with hull bottom). I epoxy coated the hole several times, sanding in between and then bedded in 5200.