Devlin bluebill build thread.

Dave~

The hardwood & lathe approach is a great idea - I've got some Black Locust that would do the trick.

All the best,

SJS
 
I "glued" one of the Moeller plugs into a Herters Hudson Bay boat I had. It was only fiberglass at that point, so not very thick(Not much material to grab onto). I did nothing besides drill the hole to fit, and cut the drain tube a little shorter. I used 5200. It held and sealed for the 4-5 years I used that boat. It is a bog reason I trust 5200 now. I realize this was not ideal, but I had no one to ask, and no internet to use at that time. Sometimes a guy gets lucky...
 
I am sure the reason for creating a flange to hold the tube in place, is cost. For somebody building multiple boats, using a tool to install the tube may well be the fastest most cost effective method of installing a drain tube.

In all reality, for a wooden boat with a transom of sufficient thickness, a tube is totally unnecessary. All that is required for an expandable rubber plug to seal properly, is a round hole of the correct inside diameter. In theory, one could create a hole, seal the raw surface of the ID of the hole and insert the rubber plug directly into the hole. Only thing the tube does for you is provide a perfectly round hole of the proper size and create a surface which will wear well during repeated use.

The manner in which the tube is secured could vary greatly depending on the materials used for the tube and for the transom. Using one of the 3M products would be perfectly acceptable in a case with brass tube into wood/epoxy construction. As Tod has pointed out, if glued in, there is no need for a flange.
 
I am sure the reason for creating a flange to hold the tube in place, is cost. For somebody building multiple boats, using a tool to install the tube may well be the fastest most cost effective method of installing a drain tube.

In all reality, for a wooden boat with a transom of sufficient thickness, a tube is totally unnecessary. All that is required for an expandable rubber plug to seal properly, is a round hole of the correct inside diameter. In theory, one could create a hole, seal the raw surface of the ID of the hole and insert the rubber plug directly into the hole. Only thing the tube does for you is provide a perfectly round hole of the proper size and create a surface which will wear well during repeated use.

The manner in which the tube is secured could vary greatly depending on the materials used for the tube and for the transom. Using one of the 3M products would be perfectly acceptable in a case with brass tube into wood/epoxy construction. As Tod has pointed out, if glued in, there is no need for a flange.
Click to expand...


The flange does make a nice finished edge where you can see it (can't see the plug on my boat).

To do it again, I'd go with a 2" drain and plug, if I could find something that I had confidence in (that it wouldn't come out and sink the boat). Cleaning out my boat, I'm always limited by the slow egress of water out the drain and how seaweed, feathers, leaves, dead crabs, doghair and shotgun shells clogs it.

The down side of a really large drain would be the times you forget to put it in - the boat would go down really fast!
 
Tod alot of the custom mud boat guys run double 2" plugs so they can empy a boat fast. Im sure if you called one of them they would sell you a plug
 
Tod alot of the custom mud boat guys run double 2" plugs so they can empy a boat fast. Im sure if you called one of them they would sell you a plug
Click to expand...


Good to know, In thinking about it, that falls in the "if I had it to do again" category.
 


We'll, that's that. A little more sanding, some foam, some paint, and the top decks start going on.
 
Paul~

Everything looks great - but I do have a very minor suggestion for the "Next Boat" file....I would round the corners - especially the inside corners - of your floorboard cutouts instead of keeping them square. It's a bit stronger (less prone to cracking at the corner) and easier on the sponge.

FB7-spongingwell_zps308c503c.jpg


BTW: For laying out any tight radius, I do not bother with a compass. Instead, I just grab the nearest can (spray paint, tuna, quart of anything) of the size I want - then nudge it up against the insides of the square and mark the cut line.

Finally, I always make a big, thirsty "Model Perfect Duckboat Sponge" for my boats - from mattress foam. They hold much more than the sponges from the marine supply, in my experience.

Congratulations on getting to the decks!

SJS
 
Looking good Paul. There a couple of options for the access holes in your floor. One, as Steve indicated is to make it big enough to mop out the other is to screen it to keep the hulls, reeds, etc. out to begin with. That is what I opted to do and it was worked out very well. I bought 1/2"x1/2" stainless steel screen from McMaster Carr and epoxied it into a frame at the transome and also at the limber hole in the forward bulkhead. Nothing larger than 1/2" ever gets in my bilge and I can still flush it out with a hose if need be.

I think you may have seen these pics before:




 
I couldn't help myself....
Click to expand...

A few gaps to fill, a little bit of fairing,,,,,, and your golden. :>) :>)
Click to expand...

Growing ever closer, just had to see what it will eventually look like!

Anybody any to chime in on what kind of bit they used to drill the hole for the drain tube?
 
Paul,
Not actually having done this, my first thought would be a Fostner bit or possibly a hole saw. With either one, you may need to finish up with a small drum sander, if the hole breaks out on an uneven surface.
 
Paul~

I think the hole saw would give you the greatest control. If you can get to both inside and out with the drill, I would stop the first hole once the pilot bit broke through - then finish the hole from the other side - to prevent splintering.

Spade bit would be my last choice....

SJS
 
Anybody any to chime in on what kind of bit they used to drill the hole for the drain tube?
[/QUOTE]


As suggested use a hole saw. I drilled a smaller pilot hole to make sure the pilot bit from the hole saw followed the right path into the hull. You will want to go slowly once the pilot bit gets through the hull to prevent blowout of the fiberglass. You want the hole to cut as low into the fillette as possible to prevent water pooling. You may even want to dremil out a bit more to create a pathway for the water to hit the drain. Once its all done coat with epoxy then 5200 in the tube to seal everything. I recommend installing an exterior plug for kayaks that uses ACME threads.
 
Anybody any to chime in on what kind of bit they used to drill the hole for the drain tube?
Click to expand...


As suggested use a hole saw. I drilled a smaller pilot hole to make sure the pilot bit from the hole saw followed the right path into the hull. You will want to go slowly once the pilot bit gets through the hull to prevent blowout of the fiberglass. You want the hole to cut as low into the fillette as possible to prevent water pooling. You may even want to dremil out a bit more to create a pathway for the water to hit the drain. Once its all done coat with epoxy then 5200 in the tube to seal everything. I recommend installing an exterior plug for kayaks that uses ACME threads.
[/QUOTE]


Yes and yes, but I used a forstner. The hole can be oversize by a bit. Drill a pilot and then correct so you hit exactly where you want. Mine is cut int the fillet as Ray says.
 
Cut the tube hole and got some fillet sanding done this morning, the. 1" hole saw is a perfect fit for the new moeller tube.

93C77DF5-1B85-40A9-B09B-414BAB07A498_zpsa1izihof.jpg


I ended up using the hole saw ( until it bottomed out) and using a 3/4" spade bit that I'd normally use to run wires through studs to eat up the "plug" created by the hole saw, and then using the hole saw again. It worked out very well, and left a nicely finished hole. Just a tip for anyone who (like me) doesn't have any 3" long hole saws.

8D196640-0039-4206-941A-26B16E8A755E_zps4gwpgmo2.jpg

I beveled the edge on the outside (I'll be plugging from outside) to accept the lip of the drain tube. I then epoxied the hole, using my brush to soak up whatever would not soak into the wood and ran to the bottom to prevent sanding in a hard to reach spot. Once this cures it will be lightly sanded and 5200 into place.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top