Devlin bluebill build thread.

A second epoxy coat after the first sanding is best practice, especially below waterline. The first coat soaks in well, but raises the grain. Sanding cuts the raised grains at the base and leaves some unsealed fibers to suck water in. A second thin coat of epoxy seals them off.
 
A second epoxy coat after the first sanding is best practice, especially below waterline. The first coat soaks in well, but raises the grain. Sanding cuts the raised grains at the base and leaves some unsealed fibers to suck water in. A second thin coat of epoxy seals them off.
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Well that's what I will do them ;)
 
A second epoxy coat after the first sanding is best practice, especially below waterline. The first coat soaks in well, but raises the grain. Sanding cuts the raised grains at the base and leaves some unsealed fibers to suck water in. A second thin coat of epoxy seals them off.
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Well that's what I will do them ;)
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Very minor with the 5200 on there, but it would suck to get water in the transom.
 
Morale improves when flat paint goes on. Just something about it.

BF180D0B-59DA-43C8-806A-4F98D3D02AA7_zpsgugrnmjn.jpg


Finished the drain plug up today. Nice snug fit, lots of 5200.

Inside view
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Outside view - I realize placement isn't ideal burial wanted access to both sides of the plug tube. A Lot less sponging than I would've done
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Paul: Firstly, your boat looks great! I would be very proud of a project like you have going in your garage.
Secondly, a bit of advice for your hunting trips: Make sure to have an extra drain plug on board -at all times. The last thing you need is to back that sweet rig into some reeds, and have that plug get caught up on some brush as you're pushing out, -only to realize that you keep your spare plug on the shelf above your workbench. I'd keep the plug in the drain basin.

Once again: Gorgeous build!

Martin
 
[font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica]Rich Geminski mentioned above the idea of drilling a hole in the motor mount and sticking a spare plug into it. I thought that was a brilliant idea, and it will happen on my boat this fall. Mine spare plug is buried somewhere in my blind bag, which doesn't always make it into the boat.


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Sure keep a spare plug, but its best to have a strong lanyard on the first plug to prevent it from wandering off on its own. This is also why I don't like compression plugs that are outside the hull. You can never get them tight enough to prevent them from being pulled out by debris. On your type of plug the loop handle can wear through cord over time so use a split ring to tie to rather than tying to the loop on the handle.
 
Thanks guys, everyone on the site has been extremely helpful. I do most of hunting in open water in weed patches - rare if ever so I pull into thick muddy stuff, but I will be attaching the plug by lanyard. The metal ring is a good idea! I will also have a spare on board, and it is above my workbench lol!
 
Anybody who has any tips or tricks on how to do the top decking attachment, would be most welcome! I am getting ready to start this process tomorrow morning. And would like to avoid any potential screwup I had of time with the wisdom of you all wonderful duck boat builders.
 
Paul~

First, I have yet to build a Devlin or other stitch-and-glue - so pay more attention to those who have. Nevertheless, I have a few thoughts:

1) Can you seal the bottom side of the decking before you fasten it? I would be tempted to put 2 coats of epoxy on it while I still had access and gravity on my side. Then sand it so it will adhere to the fillets and to paint. Although underdeck epoxy is not very vulnerable to UV decay, I like to paint the undersides of my decks a pale grey or white to help reflect light when I am looking for something in those out-of-the-way places.

2) If there are mechanical fasteners (e.g., bronze boat nails would be my choice) as well as epoxy fillets, be sure to fasten only to longitudinals (inwales, aka sheer clamps, cockpit purlins) and not perpendiculars EXCEPT for transom and the end framing of the cockpit. The idea is to avoid "perforating" - and thereby weakening the longitudinal stiffness of - the plywood where it is unnecessary.

3) Assuming you cut your deck pieces a little oversize (proud) and fasten them that way - a simple jig helps to find the edges when it comes time locate fasteners and then to trim the excess along the gunwales, transom and cockpit. (I rough cut with a jig saw then finish my cut with a flush-cut or round-over bit in my router.)

8-Wheretheedgeisfullthisgaugetellsmewhereitis_zps408a76ee.jpg


Congratulations on all of your good work.

SJS
 
Paul~

First, I have yet to build a Devlin or other stitch-and-glue - so pay more attention to those who have. Nevertheless, I have a few thoughts:

1) Can you seal the bottom side of the decking before you fasten it? I would be tempted to put 2 coats of epoxy on it while I still had access and gravity on my side. Then sand it so it will adhere to the fillets and to paint. Although underdeck epoxy is not very vulnerable to UV decay, I like to paint the undersides of my decks a pale grey or white to help reflect light when I am looking for something in those out-of-the-way places.

2) If there are mechanical fasteners (e.g., bronze boat nails would be my choice) as well as epoxy fillets, be sure to fasten only to longitudinals (inwales, aka sheer clamps, cockpit purlins) and not perpendiculars EXCEPT for transom and the end framing of the cockpit. The idea is to avoid "perforating" - and thereby weakening the longitudinal stiffness of - the plywood where it is unnecessary.

3) Assuming you cut your deck pieces a little oversize (proud) and fasten them that way - a simple jig helps to find the edges when it comes time locate fasteners and then to trim the excess along the gunwales, transom and cockpit. (I rough cut with a jig saw then finish my cut with a flush-cut or round-over bit in my router.)

http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/

Congratulations on all of your good work.

SJS[/QUOTE]

Thanks Steve, I unfortunately lofted the deck pieces since there were lofting points for them, I wish I would not have. I am thankful for epoxy peanut butter.

I will be sealing them underneath before attaching them, and will probably just paint them the same color as everything else. Thank you for the tips!


How do you all recommend splicing the deck pieces together?
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Paul~

I used butt blocks - from the same plywood as the decking. No need to scarph as there would be on the bottom:

4-Asmallbuttblockisgluedtoforwarddeckingandwilljointheforeandaftdecksheets_zps365410f6.jpg


I let the epoxy cure on the first (fastened) piece, then laid the next piece in a bed of thickened epoxy.

SJS
 
Paul,

Steve gave you good advice. On my BB3 I bedded the deck in epoxy peanut butter and then screwed them down with SS screws to the shear clamps. In my case, my knees were short and I had to add sister blocks to two of them to build them up enough to make the deck fair. After the deck was on I tipped the hull on it's side and put filets along the inside deck to hull joint - it was a bitch tipping it on it's side but way easier to filet that way. You could scarf the deck joints but I really don't think it's necessary - butt blocks will be strong enough. I like the idea of painting under the decks a light color, sure would make finding stuff easier.
 
Cut some foam today for flotation, used this because I had it left over from my Lund project. The jigsaw is the eat tool for this.
6325C4F9-8101-4F8C-823B-5A5CEB247A31_zpshepygmod.jpg


Filled any gaps with wedges of foam,the more flotation the better. Cut these flush with a knife.
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Then I attached the decking. Just like that. I simply leaned over the decking and filleted it into place as well, skipping a step sanding it later.
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It feels good to finally be at this point. I figured a lot of things out on that first decking attachment and will apply these learned lessons
To the other pieces, I love the slight curve of the decking.


Hopefully more progress tomorrow.
 
Things are moving right along, plenty of mistakes to go around, but by golly, this thing will float and kill ducks.

http://i798.photobucket.com/albums/yy262/StrongmanPaul/6B81FCB1-436D-41FE-B397-4260004E1C05_zps0uhgnvva.

[IMG]http://i798.photobucket.com/albums/yy262/StrongmanPaul/6CA2737B-5DBB-462B-A084-95FF782D3AD5_zpsj7rfwoe7.jpg
 
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She really is looking like a boat now!! Nice work, it is sure fun to see a boat being built on the DUCKBOAT page. Too many of us are trying to wear out what we have built and not building anymore. Good deal for you with all of the advice available here.
 
She really is looking like a boat now!! Nice work, it is sure fun to see a boat being built on the DUCKBOAT page. Too many of us are trying to wear out what we have built and not building anymore. Good deal for you with all of the advice available here.
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Thanks Tom - things are coming together. Lots of sanding and fairing to do yet , but then I get to glass it, paint it, and shoot stuff out of it.


Question - how did most of you attach the coaming? Eric glassed his at the same time as the rest of the hull, and I understand that, but it seems like it would really make glassing the deck suck lol.
 
Paul~

Wonderful job!

Regarding the coamings: I prefer to NOT 'glass my coamings (assuming they are of lumber and not plywood). It's too easy a spot to break through 'glass skin and let moisture in - with little way to get out.

I usually round cockpit edges and fold the 'glass over. The coaming pieces are then set in 3M 5200 - and just painted. Of course, the coamings would be fastened via carefully-spaced and countersunk holes with screw slots "calendared"....

I usually make my side coamings from 1/2" stock and end pieces of 3/4". Lauan (Philipine Mahogany is a good wood for this - but I have also used hand-picked treated lumber (SYP). I round the edges (all uppers and inside lowetrs) with a 3/16" roundover (bullnose) bit in my router.

Will you be putting thatch rails on her?

All the best,

SJS
 
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