Sneakbox Renovation
- Thread starter Steve Sanford
- Start date
Brandon Yuchasz
Well-known member
Very cool post Steve. Thanks for sharing it.
zane Every
Well-known member
Steve,
As many other members have already stated..."Thank You" for once again putting up such an informational post. Your attention to detail and craftsmanship is a delight to follow.
Zane
As many other members have already stated..."Thank You" for once again putting up such an informational post. Your attention to detail and craftsmanship is a delight to follow.
Zane
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
All~
Thanks for the kind words - I am glad you are enjoying the tale.
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]The next job was to install a new bow eye. In addition reinforcing the middle stringer with biaxial 'glass, I also backed it up with a piece of 3/4-inch AC plywood – sealed with epoxy.[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]I tacked the backer in place with 2 deck screws so I could bore the 2 3/8-inch holes accurately.[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]I marked the forward end just in case my 2 holes are not perfectly symmetrical and it gets switched around during installation.[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]
[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]After the boring and dry fit, everything was well-bedded in 3M 5200.[/font]
To install the forward central frame (king plank), I stretched some mason's twine fore and aft.
The Philippine Mahogany was set it 3M 5200 and fastened with a single screw at each frame.
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]Now to see if my air chambers will be enough to float the rig – with a ~90 pound outboard on her stern.[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]No Integral Calculus for me.....tennis anyone?[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]
[/font][font=Tahoma, sans-serif]
Always a fan of the Empirical Approach, I prevailed upon Cambridge's answer to Maria Sharapova and borrowed just the right quantity of same-sized spheres from Cap'n Nemo (duckboats member James Woods) this morning.[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]
Ever mindful of Archimedes himself, I set about estimating the volume of my nascent flotation chambers in my Barnegat Bay Fowling Machine.[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif] [/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif] [/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]
[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]The first job yesterday AM was making a 12 x 12 x 12 box - with saved pattern stock from Cassiopieia's pilothouse.....[/font]
I marked every 3 inches - quarter cubic feet - on the inside of the box (BEFORE I assembled it.)
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]Here are my calculations. I am guessing I have enough flotation – but will still need to weigh the boat when it is done.[/font]
Finally, I primed the chambers - mostly so I can see inside them more easily during future inspections.
The interior aft of the airtight bulkhead - but forward of the cockpit - will get 2 coats of gloss enamel. I will store a number of loose items there - and will want to both see what's in there - and be able to wipe it clean.
Next: the floorboards....
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]
[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]All the best,[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]SJS[/font]
Thanks for the kind words - I am glad you are enjoying the tale.
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]The next job was to install a new bow eye. In addition reinforcing the middle stringer with biaxial 'glass, I also backed it up with a piece of 3/4-inch AC plywood – sealed with epoxy.[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]I tacked the backer in place with 2 deck screws so I could bore the 2 3/8-inch holes accurately.[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]I marked the forward end just in case my 2 holes are not perfectly symmetrical and it gets switched around during installation.[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]
[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]After the boring and dry fit, everything was well-bedded in 3M 5200.[/font]
To install the forward central frame (king plank), I stretched some mason's twine fore and aft.
The Philippine Mahogany was set it 3M 5200 and fastened with a single screw at each frame.
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]Now to see if my air chambers will be enough to float the rig – with a ~90 pound outboard on her stern.[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]No Integral Calculus for me.....tennis anyone?[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]
[/font][font=Tahoma, sans-serif]
Always a fan of the Empirical Approach, I prevailed upon Cambridge's answer to Maria Sharapova and borrowed just the right quantity of same-sized spheres from Cap'n Nemo (duckboats member James Woods) this morning.[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]
Ever mindful of Archimedes himself, I set about estimating the volume of my nascent flotation chambers in my Barnegat Bay Fowling Machine.[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif] [/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]
[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]The first job yesterday AM was making a 12 x 12 x 12 box - with saved pattern stock from Cassiopieia's pilothouse.....[/font]
I marked every 3 inches - quarter cubic feet - on the inside of the box (BEFORE I assembled it.)
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]Here are my calculations. I am guessing I have enough flotation – but will still need to weigh the boat when it is done.[/font]
Finally, I primed the chambers - mostly so I can see inside them more easily during future inspections.
The interior aft of the airtight bulkhead - but forward of the cockpit - will get 2 coats of gloss enamel. I will store a number of loose items there - and will want to both see what's in there - and be able to wipe it clean.
Next: the floorboards....
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]
[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]All the best,[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]SJS[/font]
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Thanks, Paul - I will try not to disappoint....
Next steps were installing the cockpit carlins, moving the mounts for the floorboard turn-buttons, and installing a new drain tube in the transom.
I began by measuring the bevel for the top edge of the carlins. I did not have exact widths for the cockpit yet - wanted to play around with the shapes and widths to see what I liked.
I ripped a length of Philippine Mahogany with the bevel set on the table saw.
The inside edge will serve as the mounting surface for the coamings and I wanted it 1-3/4-inch high to give enough bearing surface.
I next screwed blocks to the frames to establish the widths of the cockpit.
I had previously cut mortises in the transom board to receive the tail ends of the carlins.
Once I was able to spring the over-long carlins into their new shapes, I eyed the cockpit shape from every angle.
The forward coaming is just a foamcore template.
I notched the aft frame and the temporary frame to receive the carlins. Notching the forward frame would weaken it too much - so I decided to end the carlins there - and installed "lodging knees" on the frame.
The carlins were set in 3M 5200 - and screwed in place. I am using the Black 5200 - simply because I had it on hand. White is usually the least expensive color.
I added pieces - "half-beams" - to the existing knees at the forward end of my shelves. I installed lodging knees later to hold the carlins in place.
Here she is with all of the framing in place. A few more details while everything is still open before I can add the All Important Decking....she's starting to look like a duckboat again.....
I am moving the floorboards forward about 6 inches from their previous location. The center 'board gets fastened permanently but the 2 outer 'boards can be easily removed for maintenance. They are held in place by a single turn-button each (and a long "lip" that fits under the central floorboard). I could not save the turn-button bases so needed to make new ones.
They got sealed with epoxy.
I am not ready to permanently fasten the central floorboard - so I used a bucket of coal (for weight) and 3 deck screws to to hold it in place.
I pre-drilled the new bases in their precise locations.
They later were set in 3M 5200.
As long as I had the floorboards in place, I measured and made a "dummy" backrest. The real 'rest will be lighter - not 3/4-inch fir plywood AND will also serve as a rowing stool - AND it will be padded. I will not fasten the backrest chock until I can lay in the almost-finished boat and make certain the backrest gives me the view I want. This backrest is at 50 degrees - which is usually good for me.
The last job for now was installing the new drain tube. I centered the new one from the inside - understanding that few things about this hull were ever "on-the-money" symmetrical - so I knew it would not likely line up over the skeg. I had filled the old hole with thickened epoxy.
I install the tube from the outside because that's how I use this drain. It's hard to get to beneath the stern deck AND I pull the plug at the end of every hunt, usually while I am still on the ramp - for maximum drainage.
I made a softwood wedge to back up the drilling - and to buck against the peening of the inner lip.
Once I have re-painted the hull, I will re-hang the plug from the motor board - with its length of tarred nylon decoy line - so I will not misplace it. And, I will have a spare in the on-board tool kit.
All the best,
SJS
Next steps were installing the cockpit carlins, moving the mounts for the floorboard turn-buttons, and installing a new drain tube in the transom.
I began by measuring the bevel for the top edge of the carlins. I did not have exact widths for the cockpit yet - wanted to play around with the shapes and widths to see what I liked.
I ripped a length of Philippine Mahogany with the bevel set on the table saw.
The inside edge will serve as the mounting surface for the coamings and I wanted it 1-3/4-inch high to give enough bearing surface.
I next screwed blocks to the frames to establish the widths of the cockpit.
I had previously cut mortises in the transom board to receive the tail ends of the carlins.
Once I was able to spring the over-long carlins into their new shapes, I eyed the cockpit shape from every angle.
The forward coaming is just a foamcore template.
I notched the aft frame and the temporary frame to receive the carlins. Notching the forward frame would weaken it too much - so I decided to end the carlins there - and installed "lodging knees" on the frame.
The carlins were set in 3M 5200 - and screwed in place. I am using the Black 5200 - simply because I had it on hand. White is usually the least expensive color.
I added pieces - "half-beams" - to the existing knees at the forward end of my shelves. I installed lodging knees later to hold the carlins in place.
Here she is with all of the framing in place. A few more details while everything is still open before I can add the All Important Decking....she's starting to look like a duckboat again.....
I am moving the floorboards forward about 6 inches from their previous location. The center 'board gets fastened permanently but the 2 outer 'boards can be easily removed for maintenance. They are held in place by a single turn-button each (and a long "lip" that fits under the central floorboard). I could not save the turn-button bases so needed to make new ones.
They got sealed with epoxy.
I am not ready to permanently fasten the central floorboard - so I used a bucket of coal (for weight) and 3 deck screws to to hold it in place.
I pre-drilled the new bases in their precise locations.
They later were set in 3M 5200.
As long as I had the floorboards in place, I measured and made a "dummy" backrest. The real 'rest will be lighter - not 3/4-inch fir plywood AND will also serve as a rowing stool - AND it will be padded. I will not fasten the backrest chock until I can lay in the almost-finished boat and make certain the backrest gives me the view I want. This backrest is at 50 degrees - which is usually good for me.
The last job for now was installing the new drain tube. I centered the new one from the inside - understanding that few things about this hull were ever "on-the-money" symmetrical - so I knew it would not likely line up over the skeg. I had filled the old hole with thickened epoxy.
I install the tube from the outside because that's how I use this drain. It's hard to get to beneath the stern deck AND I pull the plug at the end of every hunt, usually while I am still on the ramp - for maximum drainage.
I made a softwood wedge to back up the drilling - and to buck against the peening of the inner lip.
Once I have re-painted the hull, I will re-hang the plug from the motor board - with its length of tarred nylon decoy line - so I will not misplace it. And, I will have a spare in the on-board tool kit.
All the best,
SJS
Bill Ferrar
Well-known member
Steve,
It looks like you can't wait to start your day your having so much fun. Keep up the good work, I like the black 5200 better, I hate the way the white discolors.
It looks like you can't wait to start your day your having so much fun. Keep up the good work, I like the black 5200 better, I hate the way the white discolors.
zane Every
Well-known member
Steve,
Did you make the drain plug insert or did you buy it?
Zane
Did you make the drain plug insert or did you buy it?
Zane
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Zane~
I bought that from a marine supply (Jamestown Distributors). They are a standard item and come in several lengths and diameters. The 1-inch size is outside diameter - so a 1" bit bores the correct diameter hole.
Cutting it to length - about an 1/8-inch longer than the thickness of the transom - was the toughest part. I started with a pipe (tubing) cutter but had to fine tune it on my stationary disc sander. Because the brass is so soft and malleable - even compared with copper pipe - I wound up putting a 1" dowel inside so it would keep its shape.
Hope this helps,
SJS
I bought that from a marine supply (Jamestown Distributors). They are a standard item and come in several lengths and diameters. The 1-inch size is outside diameter - so a 1" bit bores the correct diameter hole.
Cutting it to length - about an 1/8-inch longer than the thickness of the transom - was the toughest part. I started with a pipe (tubing) cutter but had to fine tune it on my stationary disc sander. Because the brass is so soft and malleable - even compared with copper pipe - I wound up putting a 1" dowel inside so it would keep its shape.
Hope this helps,
SJS
zane Every
Well-known member
Thanks Steve. I will check them out.
Good idea using the dowel. No problems obviously when peening the interior side of the tube. With my luck I would split/ crack the brass.
Zane
Good idea using the dowel. No problems obviously when peening the interior side of the tube. With my luck I would split/ crack the brass.
Zane
Last edited:
James Tully
Member
Looking awesome. Your attention to detail is impeccable. I'm king of afterthought but watching you work will hopefully put this ideas in my head while I'm working and not when I'm done.
Thanks, Steve, for the drain tube peening mini-tutorial. I wanted to add a second on the port side of my splashwell, but could not come up with a workable option to hold the tube in place while I peened it. I assume you applied that 3M 5220 layer around the non-flared end's base prior peening it? Did you spin it in place as you seated it. The only viable option I had to mount my bilge pump exit port was to run it up to empty into the splashwell on my TDB-17'. The discharge water volume in the splashwell would be better dissipated, particularly in an emergency situation where the bilge pump is moving a high volume of water over an extended duration interval, by adding the second drain.
Addition of those half-braces to the existing knees on your sneakbox will really stiffen the hull.
Addition of those half-braces to the existing knees on your sneakbox will really stiffen the hull.
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
RL~
Yes - I coated (slathered?) the entire inside of the hole with 5200 prior to pushing the new tube in. I could not quite "spin" it - it's a very snug fit - but gave it as much twist as I could - to ensure a uniform coat of 5200 all around.
All the best,
SJS
Yes - I coated (slathered?) the entire inside of the hole with 5200 prior to pushing the new tube in. I could not quite "spin" it - it's a very snug fit - but gave it as much twist as I could - to ensure a uniform coat of 5200 all around.
All the best,
SJS
ingenious, With your boat being wood you will have more than ample floatation. Your golden. Love the tennis balls. Many people don't get the reality of how much 1 cu ft of floatation is until you try to fit it in a boat. Great thread, as always.All~
Thanks for the kind words - I am glad you are enjoying the tale.
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]The next job was to install a new bow eye. In addition reinforcing the middle stringer with biaxial 'glass, I also backed it up with a piece of 3/4-inch AC plywood – sealed with epoxy.[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]I tacked the backer in place with 2 deck screws so I could bore the 2 3/8-inch holes accurately.[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]I marked the forward end just in case my 2 holes are not perfectly symmetrical and it gets switched around during installation.[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]
[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]After the boring and dry fit, everything was well-bedded in 3M 5200.[/font]
To install the forward central frame (king plank), I stretched some mason's twine fore and aft.
The Philippine Mahogany was set it 3M 5200 and fastened with a single screw at each frame.
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]Now to see if my air chambers will be enough to float the rig – with a ~90 pound outboard on her stern.[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]No Integral Calculus for me.....tennis anyone?[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]
[/font][font=Tahoma, sans-serif]
Always a fan of the Empirical Approach, I prevailed upon Cambridge's answer to Maria Sharapova and borrowed just the right quantity of same-sized spheres from Cap'n Nemo (duckboats member James Woods) this morning.[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]
Ever mindful of Archimedes himself, I set about estimating the volume of my nascent flotation chambers in my Barnegat Bay Fowling Machine.[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif] [/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif] [/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]
[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]The first job yesterday AM was making a 12 x 12 x 12 box - with saved pattern stock from Cassiopieia's pilothouse.....[/font]
I marked every 3 inches - quarter cubic feet - on the inside of the box (BEFORE I assembled it.)
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]Here are my calculations. I am guessing I have enough flotation – but will still need to weigh the boat when it is done.[/font]
Finally, I primed the chambers - mostly so I can see inside them more easily during future inspections.
The interior aft of the airtight bulkhead - but forward of the cockpit - will get 2 coats of gloss enamel. I will store a number of loose items there - and will want to both see what's in there - and be able to wipe it clean.
Next: the floorboards....
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]
[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]All the best,[/font]
[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]SJS[/font]
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Good morning, Tony~
I was THAT CLOSE to buying such a tool - https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/products/flanging-tool-for-drain-tube-1--22954.html - but opted to save the $35 - because - not being a production builder - I could not be sure I would ever use it again.
BTW: Good selection of drains and other through-hulls at Hamilton Marine.
All the best,
SJS
I was THAT CLOSE to buying such a tool - https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/products/flanging-tool-for-drain-tube-1--22954.html - but opted to save the $35 - because - not being a production builder - I could not be sure I would ever use it again.
BTW: Good selection of drains and other through-hulls at Hamilton Marine.
All the best,
SJS
Tom Russo
Active member
Great craftsmanship Capt.!
Would you consider taking on an intern/apprentice? I have a sharp, reasonably stout 16 year old (and/or a slightly less sharp/stout 48 year old) happy to sleep in the workshop delivered with provisions (I have a sewing machine).
Thank you very much for sharing.
Tom
Would you consider taking on an intern/apprentice? I have a sharp, reasonably stout 16 year old (and/or a slightly less sharp/stout 48 year old) happy to sleep in the workshop delivered with provisions (I have a sewing machine).
Thank you very much for sharing.
Tom
Last edited:
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Good morning, Tom~
Any and all Russos are ALWAYS welcome at Pencil Brook Boatworks.
All the best to you and the crew,
SJS
Any and all Russos are ALWAYS welcome at Pencil Brook Boatworks.
All the best to you and the crew,
SJS
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
All~
A bit more progress - after a weekend away with family.
The shop stove was cooking along - with 9 degrees here yesterday morning.
I painted the forward hold and the gas tank's cubbyhole with a light, glossy enamel - Interlux Brightside Seattle Gray - which I like for hull interiors on most of my non-gunning vessels, too. It let's me see into dark places and wipes clean easily.
The other main accomplishment was making the coamings. Although they will not be installed until after the decks are on and 'glassed, it is much easier to measure and fit them while the framing is still open.
I began with the fore and aft coamings - by clamping a piece of Cypress against the frames. The board has already been cut and beveled to length. Then I just use a 2-inch wide block to scribe the top of the coaming. The lower side is scribed right from the frame. Once the decks are on, the coamings will sit up ~ 1-3/4 inches above them.
The curves are cut on the bandsaw, then hand planed and sanded - then rounded over on the router table.
I also pre-drilled and countersunk the holes for the flathead wood screws that will eventually hold them to the frames. Of course, the locations of the holes are measured very carefully - commensurate with good OCD practice....
After planing the side coamings to a scant 5/8-inch thickness, I clamped temporary posts at 3 spots along the cockpit carlins.
I used a heavier clamp to pull the middle of the coaming out against its clamping post.
The lengths were marked on the coamings - and the bevels were recorded. The final beveled cuts were made on the chop saw.
I used the router table to round over the 2 top edges and the lower, inner edge.
Note the direction of the grain. I selected these boards to approximate "quarter sawn" - to avoid flat grain and to get the greatest strength.
I made up a jig with a permanent fence to be clamped temporarily to the drill press - so I could bore all of the holes an equal distance from the lower edge of the coaming.
I used a bit that bores the slip hole and the countersink. The coamings will get 2 coats of epoxy prior to installation.
Next: A few more jobs that are much easier with the decks off.
All the best,
SJS
A bit more progress - after a weekend away with family.
The shop stove was cooking along - with 9 degrees here yesterday morning.
I painted the forward hold and the gas tank's cubbyhole with a light, glossy enamel - Interlux Brightside Seattle Gray - which I like for hull interiors on most of my non-gunning vessels, too. It let's me see into dark places and wipes clean easily.
The other main accomplishment was making the coamings. Although they will not be installed until after the decks are on and 'glassed, it is much easier to measure and fit them while the framing is still open.
I began with the fore and aft coamings - by clamping a piece of Cypress against the frames. The board has already been cut and beveled to length. Then I just use a 2-inch wide block to scribe the top of the coaming. The lower side is scribed right from the frame. Once the decks are on, the coamings will sit up ~ 1-3/4 inches above them.
The curves are cut on the bandsaw, then hand planed and sanded - then rounded over on the router table.
I also pre-drilled and countersunk the holes for the flathead wood screws that will eventually hold them to the frames. Of course, the locations of the holes are measured very carefully - commensurate with good OCD practice....
After planing the side coamings to a scant 5/8-inch thickness, I clamped temporary posts at 3 spots along the cockpit carlins.
I used a heavier clamp to pull the middle of the coaming out against its clamping post.
The lengths were marked on the coamings - and the bevels were recorded. The final beveled cuts were made on the chop saw.
I used the router table to round over the 2 top edges and the lower, inner edge.
Note the direction of the grain. I selected these boards to approximate "quarter sawn" - to avoid flat grain and to get the greatest strength.
I made up a jig with a permanent fence to be clamped temporarily to the drill press - so I could bore all of the holes an equal distance from the lower edge of the coaming.
I used a bit that bores the slip hole and the countersink. The coamings will get 2 coats of epoxy prior to installation.
Next: A few more jobs that are much easier with the decks off.
All the best,
SJS
John Unruh
Active member
Darn you do nice work Steve !