Steve Sanford
Well-known member
John et al~
Thanks for the kind words. I am certainly savoring my time in the shop.
As mentioned, the next few jobs are much easier if done BEFORE the decks go on.
Installing the Beckson deck plates is straightforward. They recommend using silicon caulk to bed them. And, I used S/S panheads - #8s.
Another job was modifying the oar chocks - because I have switched the oars end-for-end when stored - to make room for the stern air chambers. The blades would rest on - and potentially chafe - the inside of the hull. So, I am adding fillers to each of the forward chocks to raise the blades up off the hull.
I will line each chock - and the larger oblong holes through the knees - with rubber. Easier to do before the decks go on - but not bad either way.
I also bored some holes through the port side knees - just in case I need to run electrical (battery?) cable forward someday.
Then I painted the interior with Lou Tisch's FME #28 - masking off the Seattle Gray storage areas.
I did not paint the middle stringer - because the center floorboards will be permanently fastened there with screws and 3M 5200.
I will not install the aft Beckson plates until after I install the new thatch rails - which will be bolted through the decking. These plates are only 4 inches in diameter - a bit tight for my (massive, tree-trunk like biceps) arms - so I can reach the fender washers and nuts more easily.
Finally, I made a block from which I will hang the fire extinguisher in its plastic holder. The underside is pre-drilled for the holder.
I scribed the slight curve of the cockpit carlin and beveled the cut on the band saw at about 15 degrees to keep it below the crown of the decking.
The decks are 1/4-inch AC plywood. I start by clamping on the forward quarters, with one edge running down - and clamped to - the centerline on the central frame member.
I clamp it down as much as I can and then mark the edges - along the gunwale and the inside of the cockpit.
I mark the after edges of the forward quarters - so I know where the aft quarters begin.
I cut the decks about an inch wider than needed - just in case the plywood "creeps" a bit as it's being fastened. This can be a problem when there is more compound curvature and the plywood needs to be "tortured" during installation. It may have been unnecessary of this boat - but is good practice when working with exotic shapes.
All cutting with the sabre saw is of the "close enough" variety. Once cut to approximate shape, I clamp or tack the deck pieces in place with sheet metal screws.
Satisfied with the fit, I put the plywood back on the bench and seal the bottom sides with epoxy.
I will fasten the interior edges with bronze ring nails (aka boat nails) and the outer edges with temporary self-tapping screws.
This plywood jig is for measuring. Because the overlarge plywood overhangs the existing gunwale of the hull, it allows me to measure one inch inside the actual gunwale.
I space the fasteners about 3 inches apart.
The seam between the forward and aft quarters does not land on a frame - by design. To avoid creating a "hard spot", the 2 pieces of decking are joined with a butt block. (They could be scarphed in to a single long piece - but the extra work is unwarranted, in my opinion. I would only do so for a stich-n-glue boat - or for the hull bottom.)
NOTE: I cut these butt blocks across the grain - so that they will conform more readily to the very slight crown of the deck.
I pre-drill all of the holes for the screws.
And, I start each nail hole with an awl.
All mating surfaces get generous bead(s) of 3M 5200. I am especially careful around the air chambers.
NOTE: I do NOT fasten to the athwartships frame EXCEPT along the forward and aft edges of the cockpit opening. There is no benefit to fastening to the frames and knees et cetera - and you risk weakening the plywood by perforating it with fasteners. This is even more important on the bottom of a plywood hull - and I have seen others "strengthen" an existing hull with screws or nails into the floor frames. Remember: Longitudinals only!
The screws will be left in place for a whole week - while the 5200 cures fully. In a future episode, I will finish the edges and wrap them with 'glass.
The butt blocks were also set in 5200 - and held temporarily with screws.
Now to seal the undersides of the forward deck pieces....
SJS
Thanks for the kind words. I am certainly savoring my time in the shop.
As mentioned, the next few jobs are much easier if done BEFORE the decks go on.
Installing the Beckson deck plates is straightforward. They recommend using silicon caulk to bed them. And, I used S/S panheads - #8s.
Another job was modifying the oar chocks - because I have switched the oars end-for-end when stored - to make room for the stern air chambers. The blades would rest on - and potentially chafe - the inside of the hull. So, I am adding fillers to each of the forward chocks to raise the blades up off the hull.
I will line each chock - and the larger oblong holes through the knees - with rubber. Easier to do before the decks go on - but not bad either way.
I also bored some holes through the port side knees - just in case I need to run electrical (battery?) cable forward someday.
Then I painted the interior with Lou Tisch's FME #28 - masking off the Seattle Gray storage areas.
I did not paint the middle stringer - because the center floorboards will be permanently fastened there with screws and 3M 5200.
I will not install the aft Beckson plates until after I install the new thatch rails - which will be bolted through the decking. These plates are only 4 inches in diameter - a bit tight for my (massive, tree-trunk like biceps) arms - so I can reach the fender washers and nuts more easily.
Finally, I made a block from which I will hang the fire extinguisher in its plastic holder. The underside is pre-drilled for the holder.
I scribed the slight curve of the cockpit carlin and beveled the cut on the band saw at about 15 degrees to keep it below the crown of the decking.
The decks are 1/4-inch AC plywood. I start by clamping on the forward quarters, with one edge running down - and clamped to - the centerline on the central frame member.
I clamp it down as much as I can and then mark the edges - along the gunwale and the inside of the cockpit.
I mark the after edges of the forward quarters - so I know where the aft quarters begin.
I cut the decks about an inch wider than needed - just in case the plywood "creeps" a bit as it's being fastened. This can be a problem when there is more compound curvature and the plywood needs to be "tortured" during installation. It may have been unnecessary of this boat - but is good practice when working with exotic shapes.
All cutting with the sabre saw is of the "close enough" variety. Once cut to approximate shape, I clamp or tack the deck pieces in place with sheet metal screws.
Satisfied with the fit, I put the plywood back on the bench and seal the bottom sides with epoxy.
I will fasten the interior edges with bronze ring nails (aka boat nails) and the outer edges with temporary self-tapping screws.
This plywood jig is for measuring. Because the overlarge plywood overhangs the existing gunwale of the hull, it allows me to measure one inch inside the actual gunwale.
I space the fasteners about 3 inches apart.
The seam between the forward and aft quarters does not land on a frame - by design. To avoid creating a "hard spot", the 2 pieces of decking are joined with a butt block. (They could be scarphed in to a single long piece - but the extra work is unwarranted, in my opinion. I would only do so for a stich-n-glue boat - or for the hull bottom.)
NOTE: I cut these butt blocks across the grain - so that they will conform more readily to the very slight crown of the deck.
I pre-drill all of the holes for the screws.
And, I start each nail hole with an awl.
All mating surfaces get generous bead(s) of 3M 5200. I am especially careful around the air chambers.
NOTE: I do NOT fasten to the athwartships frame EXCEPT along the forward and aft edges of the cockpit opening. There is no benefit to fastening to the frames and knees et cetera - and you risk weakening the plywood by perforating it with fasteners. This is even more important on the bottom of a plywood hull - and I have seen others "strengthen" an existing hull with screws or nails into the floor frames. Remember: Longitudinals only!
The screws will be left in place for a whole week - while the 5200 cures fully. In a future episode, I will finish the edges and wrap them with 'glass.
The butt blocks were also set in 5200 - and held temporarily with screws.
Now to seal the undersides of the forward deck pieces....
SJS
